How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps) - S-10 Forum
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post #1 of 61 Old 03-18-2011, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

*i compiled this during my head-gasket job with all the steps i took to get the job done, to do so i used the info from my haynes manual, along with plenty of other posts here on the forum. I figured this would be a nice in depth "how-to" for those not as dedicated to forum surfing as me*

-------------------------------------------

2.2L Head gasket job (tips/steps)
Vehicle= 1994 (non-4x4) Chevy s10 2.2l
Job approximate time (about 6hours per day working very carefully and slowly) = 3-4 days
Job approximate cost = $130 (without head resurface)

--------------------------------------------

1. Disconnect battery
2. Begin draining coolant by way of radiator drain
3. Remove air intake assembly (air filter/intake tubing)
4. Remove radiator fan shrouds (upper and lower)

a. Mind the coolant crossover line attached to lower shroud

5. Remove clutch fan and pulley
a. Rent a clutch fan remover tool from auto store (not the one for the clutch fans with one big bolt and attached to water-pump)
b. Otherwise, remove nuts by jamming a long object in between a bolt to prevent the fan/pulley assembly from spinning while you break and loosen the other 13mm bolts

6. Remove serpentine belt
a. 3/8 inch socket wrench with extender into square hole of tensioner and crank left

7. Begin removal of engine accessories (unbolt and move to side)
a. Power steering (3 bolts accessible from holes in the pulley)
b. Ac compressor (2 bolts on accessory bracket, and 2 more on a bracket attached to valve cover)
c. Alternator (2 bolts on accessory bracket, 1 bolt on engine bracket)
i. You also must remove the bracket which holds the alternator, as this is attached the lower intake manifold to the block

8. Remove water-pump (to drain all antifreeze from block)
a. Will need to replace water-pump gasket

9. Remove the spark plug boots and set to side
10. Remove upper intake manifold

a. Unhook vacuum lines to successfully lift the piece out
b. will need to replace upper intake manifold gasket

11. Disconnect connectors/sensors attached to intake manifold and others in that area
a. also disconnect fuel injector connectors (all go in line, so no need to mark)

12. remove heater hose attached to inlet of heater-core/thermostat inlet
13. remove thermostat/water inlet (2 bolts)

a. remove temp sensor connector
b. You may leave the heater hose (to heater-core) attached, by disconnecting from the heater-core, and removing at one unit.
c. There is a single 8mm bolt supporting the heater hose to the lower intake manifold

14. Remove dipstick tube (one bolt attached to exhaust manifold bolt nearest to firewall, and pull up and out)
15. Remove the rear engine lifting bracket (one bolt on top of rear external head bolt)
16. Remove exhaust manifold

a. also unbolt the manifold from the exhaust downpipe(2 bolts)
b. may need to remove driver’s-side inner fender to access bolts

17. unbolt lower intake manifold
a. I found that due to the steel lines attacked, that it was easier to just unbolt the lower intake manifold itself

18. remove valve cover
a. will need to replace valve cover gasket (to be safe)

19. remove spark plugs
20. using the “BIC pen method” move piston #1 to TDC

a. the engine cranks to the right

21. remove push rods/rocker arms
a. when you remove push rods and rocker arms (make note of where they came from for reassembly)
b. also when you reassemble the rocker arms/push rods per cylinder, it is highly suggested to move the piston in the respective cylinder to TDC (otherwise, some valves will be in compression which will mess up your torque setting when you bolt them back down)

22. remove head bolts
23. lift head assembly out of engine bay
24. After old gasket/remnants are removed check for cracks/warping on both head and block.

a. have mill resurface or replace head/block accordingly

25. For reassembly do everything in reverse
a. Reinstall head-gasket and new head bolts with specified torque settings
i. If any, use the copper head-gasket sealant spray to seal gasket
b. Remember to put each cylinder at TDC when reassembling the push-rods and rocker arms
i. “also when you reassemble the rocker arms/push rods per cylinder, it is highly suggested to move the piston in the respective cylinder to TDC (otherwise, some valves will be in compression which will mess up your torque setting when you bolt them back down) “


---------------------------------------

Tools:
• DEEP-WELL Metric socket set (6mm-16mm)
• Socket extensions of a variety of sizes
• Metric open-end wrench
• Razor-blade (or something to remove old gaskets)
• Flat-head /Phillips screwdriver
• BFH (of BFRH for those faint-hearted)

Parts and items to replace (aka shopping list):
• Exhaust manifold gasket set
• Head gasket
• Intake manifold gasket
• Valve cover gasket
• Water-pump gasket
• Thermostat (outlet to head) gasket
• Head bolt set
• Permatex “copper” gasket sealant (suggested)
• “Blue” RTV sealant
• Antifreeze
• Oil *highly suggested*

Things you can replace/upgrade while you are at it......
• Spark plugs / wires ($31 total)
• Fuel injectors ($80+ each = $320 total)
• Change “quick clamps” on water hoses to regular screw-down clamps
• Change old heater hoses to straight heater hosing (3/4” and 5/8” hoses)
• Thermostat/gasket ($10)
• Water-pump *probably why your changing your head-gasket to begin with* ($15)
• E-fan conversion

Notes:
• do not use sealant on rubber or coated gaskets only on cork, composite, and paper
• Using PB-Blast a day or two and on the day of removing bolts is a definite must
• If you start to round off a 13mm bolt/nut, after the first slip, switch to a ½” (it will be a tight fit)

Torque specs
camshaft sprocket bolt ........................................96
camshaft thrust plate bolts ..................................106 in-lbs
crankshaft pulley bolts.......................................... 37
crankshaft pulley/hub-to-crankshaft bolt...................77
cylinder head bolts
step 1
long bolts............................................. ..........46
short bolts............................................. .........43
step 2................................................. .............tighten additional 90*
engine mount-to-engine bolts.................................39
engine mount through bolts....................................38
engine mount bracket-to-frame bolts.......................33
exhaust manifold nuts...........................................115 in-lbs
flywheel/driveplate-to-cylinder head nuts/bolts
through 1998.............................................. ......24
1999-later............................................. ...........17
lifter guide retainer-to-block-stud............................97 in-lbs
oil pan bolts............................................. ............89 in-lbs
oil pump-to-block bolt............................................32
rocker arm studs............................................. ......37
rocker-arm nuts (bolts on 1999-later).......................19-22
timing chain cover bolts..........................................97 in-lbs
valve cover bolts............................................. ......89 in-lbs

head-bolt tightening sequence


how i marked and organized my push-rods and rocker-arms (and identification of both)



maybe its just me, but i use my truck as a truck

"2.2l Headgasket how-to"
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f105/h...-steps-465392/
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post #2 of 61 Old 03-18-2011, 08:25 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Awesome write-up. New "how do I replace my H/G" threads are started all the time. Why isn't this a sticky?

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post #3 of 61 Old 03-18-2011, 10:28 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Good write up.

I have just one thing to highlight:
Always replace the head bolts! The head bolts are torque-to-yield and must stretch the specified amount for the head to seat and seal correctly.

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I've had two other S-10s, previously.
Had my '85 project, till I got hit head on...
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On my third, a '93, that's mechanically sound, it's in okay shape. It's slowly getting better, though.

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post #4 of 61 Old 04-05-2011, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

for those whom may need to purchase a new head due to cracks/warps, for this job i purchased a refurbed head from Cylinder heads international (www.headsonly.com) and i would suggest them to anyone. cheap prices and quick shipping

for the full review and pictures refer to the link below
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f105/s...2/#post7394349

also if you need to resurface your head, and were wondering price, i think a decent rough number to go by would be what i was quoted at one of my local head shops, which was $125 for the whole clean/crack check/resurface. again, use this as a rough number, because im sure everyone lives in different areas

maybe its just me, but i use my truck as a truck

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post #5 of 61 Old 04-17-2011, 05:20 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

great write up, im in the middle of 2.2l head gasket replacement first time, i think im gonna order one of those refurb heads.... unfortunatley i didnt put the pistons at TDC since im a rookie and jumped right into this mess, i hope i dont run into other problems... its actually on a sunfire so if i F it up im not to worried.. im pretty sure i need a new head, due to the pitting around the coolant holes is nearing the piston/valve circle. ANY COMMENTS GREATLY APPRECIATED! since the labor is almost free im probably gonna go with refurb head....
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post #6 of 61 Old 04-17-2011, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

no, its not a big deal putting everything TDC at the beginning, just if they are not, there will be pressure on the rocker arm nuts, and if enough, you might just unbolt a rocker arm stud or 2 (i did, but your going to have to put the old ones in the new head anyway, so its not going to hurt your progress)
however, when you put the rocker arms back on, it is important to put the pistons in TDC s you bolt on the respective cylinder`s rocker arms, again this is because of the pressure due to the cam pushing the push rod into the rocker arm, thus this will mess up your torque spec on the rocker arm nuts. (1st/4th and 2nd/3rd go to TDC at the same time, which might make it easier for you)

ALSO IMPORTANT (From Experience)
when you torque the rocker arm bolts, make sure you use a torque wrench meant for lower ft/lb torque settings. i however did not listen to others who told me that torque wrenches that have marked setting on the shaft only as low as 25ft/lbs may not function properly on lower torque settings, and you may (I did) break the top off of a rocker arm stud. and truct me, they are not fun to find (no one sells them, and oddly they are even harder to find online in single packs).
so a word of advice, especially for the top end bolts, pick yourself up a $10 pendulum torque wrench, to get a good torque, and reduce the chance of having to find one of these hard-to-find tutu rocker arm studs...

maybe its just me, but i use my truck as a truck

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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

also if you have any specific questions, feel free to pm me, ill do my best to help.

maybe its just me, but i use my truck as a truck

"2.2l Headgasket how-to"
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post #8 of 61 Old 06-05-2011, 05:55 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Just fyi for anyone else doing this job,

If, when you remove your Dipstick tube, the tube seal(to the block) rips apart you can get it from gmpartsdirect.com for 4 bucks.

I wasn't able to find it anywhere else but there.

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post #9 of 61 Old 06-05-2011, 10:25 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

It comes in the Fel-Pro Conversion Set (Part # CS 9469) for this engine. This package states it is part # 93828, but the number doesn't come up on any site, including the Fel-Pro site.

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I've had two other S-10s, previously.
Had my '85 project, till I got hit head on...
A '92 extended cab, I got for my now Ex. She traded it when we had the kid.
On my third, a '93, that's mechanically sound, it's in okay shape. It's slowly getting better, though.

Always working on the 2.2L OHV LN2s and the 60 Degree V6s. If not mine, then someone else's!
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post #10 of 61 Old 06-05-2011, 10:51 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

replace the your water pump while your at it.. its only $20.

my headgasket wasnt blown, but the water ports were falling apart and 2 were plugged due to dexcool.

replaced the waterpump and thermostat for insurance and its not expensive.



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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I saw the pic of u numbering ur rocker arms and rods....

is the order important? When i rebuilt my 2.2 I did not replace them in the exact spots since I thought they were all the same. Did i make a big mistake?

'00 s10 , SFBD, sonoma front clip, rebuilt 2.2 (bored .60, port n polished head), built not bought!
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post #12 of 61 Old 06-06-2011, 02:53 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

the reasoning for doing that is because of wear patterns, you shouldn't have any major problems, you may get valvetrain tick but thats about it,

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post #13 of 61 Old 06-06-2011, 09:43 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Loved the how-to, I referenced this about a month ago when I did my HG. Thanks for the tutorial!


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post #14 of 61 Old 07-18-2011, 03:53 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Thanks for the write-up, it's been very helpful. I'm about 90% done removing the head. I got the lower intake unbolted and was able to slide it away from the head, but I can't remove it from the engine bay. I think I can get the head out without removing the lower intake, but would you elaborate more on what you did with it?
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post #15 of 61 Old 07-18-2011, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

honestly, the way i did it was to leave both the lower intake, and exhaust manifolds attached in the engine bay and wiggle the head in/out.

NOW, THIS IS NOT ADVISED AT ALL.

i havent seen any major problems due to this blatantly lazy "technique", but you can seriously damage your new headgasket/head by not dropping the head in straight onto the block.

with that said, more than likely, if all your brackets are removed (alternator and such) the only thing holding your lower intake mani to the truck is probably the steel fuel line that runs directly underneath.
Like i said, i did not unbolt this, but i imagine it unscrews like any other steel line connector, and when removed, some gas will probably come out of it.

sorry i dont have much more to say on this specfic one, maybe somebody else has a good idea about it?

maybe its just me, but i use my truck as a truck

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post #16 of 61 Old 07-18-2011, 05:25 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

depends what year truck this is. I left the lower intake and header attached and didn't have any issues. But I don't know about a 98+.


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post #17 of 61 Old 07-18-2011, 11:42 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I couldn't get the intake out because the heater core (or some AC component, not sure what it is...) was in the way. I think I would have had to remove the studs from the head to get it off. But the head came out no problemo once the exhaust manifold was off.

I got a new head from CHI (thanks for the recommendation--it looks good) and I should be able to put it on no problem (more or less). Since I'm working alone what I think I'll do is drop the head in on a piece of cardboard, then slide the cardboard out.

I checked the pistons, they all look normal except #4--the rearmost piston. It had a lot of pretty clean oil on it. I mean, enough that there was no carbon deposits on it and the face was shiny clean when I wiped the oil off. The plug was a little fouled, not too much. I'm not sure what to make of that.

I mean, it was burning oil and coolant both. It started smoking heavily -- white smoke -- right before I started the head gasket job. It has been a little hard to start for a couple months; then it started misfiring for 20-30 seconds after starting sometimes (after sitting a while, I think). I observed bubbles in the coolant overflow tank. Has to be the head gasket, right? I just hope that's not the only problem--or that the oil leak is from the valves and not the piston. I guess there's no way I could test it with the head off... Any thoughts?
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post #18 of 61 Old 07-19-2011, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Quote:
I couldn't get the intake out because the heater core (or some AC component, not sure what it is...) was in the way. I think I would have had to remove the studs from the head to get it off. But the head came out no problemo once the exhaust manifold was off.
i see what you mean now, yea i had that problem as well, this also makes for putting it back together a huge pain. a tip if you are doing it this way, is to screw in the studs for the intake AFTER the head is bolted down, otherwise, it will be worse than when you took it out.

Quote:
I checked the pistons, they all look normal except #4--the rearmost piston. It had a lot of pretty clean oil on it. I mean, enough that there was no carbon deposits on it and the face was shiny clean when I wiped the oil off. The plug was a little fouled, not too much. I'm not sure what to make of that.

I mean, it was burning oil and coolant both. It started smoking heavily -- white smoke -- right before I started the head gasket job. It has been a little hard to start for a couple months; then it started misfiring for 20-30 seconds after starting sometimes (after sitting a while, I think). I observed bubbles in the coolant overflow tank. Has to be the head gasket, right? I just hope that's not the only problem--or that the oil leak is from the valves and not the piston. I guess there's no way I could test it with the head off... Any thoughts?
more than likely if the headgasket was destroyed around the area of where the pushrods come up through the head, then that is where your oil came from. but it could have also been a crack somewhere in the head/valves, but either way, with a new HG and head the problem should be fixed.

best of luck

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post #19 of 61 Old 07-19-2011, 05:48 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

The damn fel-pro gasket doesn't have holes for the water jacket on the front of the block. That can't be right, can it?

Then again, the original one has plugs there too...I don't know. Half the holes are different. It has to be intentional. As often as these POS 2.2ls blow head gaskets they have to know what they're doing.
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post #20 of 61 Old 07-20-2011, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Quote:
The damn fel-pro gasket doesn't have holes for the water jacket on the front of the block. That can't be right, can it?
dont feel too stupid, as this had me for a second as well.
you need to turn the HG around and flip it over.
look at the water jacket holes on the head not the block and you will do fine

maybe its just me, but i use my truck as a truck

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post #21 of 61 Old 07-21-2011, 09:28 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

You want to talk about feeling stupid, how's this-- The EGR manifold (I guess that's what it is) on the back of the head. It takes a gasket. I put one on. So far so good. Well, apparently, there's TWO gaskets for it included in the fel-pro set. But no note, no, hey, watch out for this, the gasket you pull out first might not be the right one.

I didn't open the gasket kit to look at it beforehand because it was taped with something that said NO RETURNS IF OPENED.

Anyway, I need to find the old gasket and make sure I put the right one on, I guess. They're not the same. Here's a picture of the gasket set:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=543304

As you can imagine it's not the easiest gasket to change if I have to do that.

The victor reinz set has THREE gaskets for this (one's flipped over): http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2650720

What's the deal?
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post #22 of 61 Old 07-21-2011, 10:25 AM
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The same set is used for the cavalier as well. So it should have a couple thermostat gaskets as well. Not all of them will be used.


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post #23 of 61 Old 07-21-2011, 10:29 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Well the thermostats don't all have the same bolt pattern and otherwise appear to be interchangeable without a close inspection--right?

You know, they change the ****ing head gasket pattern, how was I suppopsed to know it wasn't some kind of "improvement" like that, when I pulled it out of the box? All I know is that it fit on there. Ugh. I can't remember if I put the right one on or not.

I am at work so I can't look at it now, but is it possible to get that blasted manifold off with the head attached to the engine? If it's not I think I will hang myself here. Hopefully that way they'll say it was work-related for insurance purposes.
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post #24 of 61 Old 07-21-2011, 12:03 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I leave everything on that won't prevent me from removing the head, that's how flat rate techs do it. I never remove the water pump, just remove block drain plug.
Also to purge air on coolant refill, I remove the temp sensor.
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post #25 of 61 Old 07-21-2011, 07:09 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I used the right one. Thank God!
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post #26 of 61 Old 07-22-2011, 03:03 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Well I'll add another tip: make sure of the positioning of hoses and wires before you start adding accessories. Otherwise you'll have to pull them to reroute everything. You should take lots of pictures before and during disassembly.

I finished the job more or less tonight. It was a little hard to start, smoked a bit, a lot from the exhaust (new gaskets, I believe). Idle was rough for a few minutes but smoothed out eventually. I drove it about 5 miles tonight, got it all the way hot. Made good power, stopped smoking, no more bubbles in the coolant. It may be fixed.

Though I may have introduced an exhaust and/or vacuum leak somewhere. Idle was still a tad rough. Truck sounded different (better) when under load, idle still sounds like crap. Maybe it's supposed to.

I got to go to bed. Thanks again everybody.
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Quote:
idle still sounds like crap
ive never met a tutu that didnt sound like crap in idle :/

maybe its just me, but i use my truck as a truck

"2.2l Headgasket how-to"
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f105/h...-steps-465392/
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post #28 of 61 Old 07-23-2011, 10:15 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Yeah. I'm going to replace the timing chain and tensioner (again) anyway. I need reliable transportation and it's too easy to do. BTW thanks again for all your help, it was invaluable.

My last piece of advice is to listen to the OP when he says you don't need a full head gasket kit. You don't. Just get the ones he mentioned, and maybe an EGR manifold gasket if you are replacing the head. Make sure it matches!
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post #29 of 61 Old 07-28-2011, 11:46 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Thanks for this post, i'm finding it very helpful. I just recently bought a 97 sonoma cheap as the headgasket is supposedly gone. Worst of all the previous owner started to dismantle the engine and never finished. One question, i note all the torgue specks are in in/lbs, im used to working with foot/lbs....ill check my torque wrench , perhaps its labelled for both. not sure i dont use a torque wrench very often, thankfully. Oh and one more thing, can anyone give me some insight as to what causes headgasket failure? Thanks in advance!
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post #30 of 61 Old 07-28-2011, 04:02 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Only some of them are in inch pounds. Most are not. Unless I'm sadly mistaken, 12 inch pounds = 1 foot pound. Makes sense. You will need a torque wrench that's calibrated for smaller units of measure when you are torquing some of these bolts and nuts. A 1/2" wrench often has a usable range that starts at 30 foot pounds. You can get cheap torque wrenches at Harbor Freight. They often have coupons for $10 each. Go to slickdeals.net's forum, read the harbor freight thread.

FWIW I did not use a torque wrench on the intake and exhaust nuts. I did use it for the valve cover, the rockers, the head itself--obviously. You could probably get away with just doing the head and the rockers, a good 1/2" torque wrench with USABLE 20 ft pounds setting would work. Otherwise you might need a 3/8. A typical 1/4" won't go up to 20 ft pounds.

Head gaskets wear out on these trucks, I think, as a matter of course. I never oveheated mine. I looked at it and it looked rotten around some of the freeze plugs. Is that why it was leaking? I don't know.
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post #31 of 61 Old 07-31-2011, 12:01 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I still haven't figured out what my "vacuum leak" is, either. It's a slightly rough idle paired with an occasional feeling that the motor is weak in low rpms. Seems to do fine at speed. Also seems to get better or go away completely after the truck's warmed up. It actually threw a misfire code a couple times, always within a minute or two of starting, with the A/C on -- p302, cylinder #2 misfire, both times. The plug always looks fine. I replaced it anyway to no effect. Starts instantly. This is not a severe problem--it's subtle, but it bothers me nonetheless.

Next step I guess would be to pull the intake, wiggle all the wires and retorque the lower manifold nuts.
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post #32 of 61 Old 07-31-2011, 01:06 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

dont know if anyone has mentioned this yet but on my 2002 the air intake is one full piece and i found it 100 times easier just to leave that thing on the head, just unhook full line and any other small thing and once you have the head out, then remove it to change gasket or to get your head serviced then bolt it back on before reinstalling the head, this worked great for me and saved alot of time and hassle...
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post #33 of 61 Old 08-23-2011, 02:36 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I'm doing this job on a '98 w/ single piece intake. There's a triangle shaped bracket covering the last valve cover bolt and #4 injector. I pulled the two 13mm bolts from the top but there's a bolt on the back of the head that's a bugger. Any tricks for getting this off ?
A few other off-topic questions please ?
Should I replace the timing chain & tensioner ?
How hard is it to delete EGR ?
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post #34 of 61 Old 08-23-2011, 07:50 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

haha, yeah i hated that dam bolt, you just have to get a wrench back down in there and take it off real slow, no tricks there... lol if your above 100,000 miles and got the extra cash id def. replace timiing chain, i just ordered mine... it was easy to take off and only took like an hour, as for egr, i have no clue

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post #35 of 61 Old 08-23-2011, 08:30 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Thanx metalhdmatt, It's not going back on. I was able to reach it with a 13mm stubby after pulling the EGR 8mm off. Why is it good to send hot exhaust gasses into your intake ? I got the fuel rail disconnect unhooked but couldn't figure out how to disconnect the return fuel line. Ended up pulling the intake after the head was loose. So the head is now off. Inch of coolant in the #1 cylinder, butterscotch color.
Why didn't GM mount the coil packs on the driver side with a shorter wire run ? Why didn't they mount the water rez on the driver side and do away with the crossover tube running under the fan shroud ? Why have a intake pipe with so many plenums and a 180* bend ? Why does it take 5 bolts to mount a PS pump ? What (cheep) CAI do you guys like ?
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post #36 of 61 Old 08-23-2011, 08:56 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

lmao! it dont do nothing anyways... umm the fuel line you need a special tool and id get it and bolt that intake on before reinstalling your head man, the coil packs are easier to reach by taking off your front tire and goin in thur fender well and i made my air intake with parts from autozone/advanced auto.. cost about 70$ all together

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post #37 of 61 Old 08-23-2011, 08:58 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

o and get your head checked before putting it back on or you might be redoing all this again real soon...

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post #38 of 61 Old 08-23-2011, 09:25 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I got the fuel line by the trans dip stick, can't get the one at the back of the manifold, 21mm ? The return ? I'd like to be able to remove the intake so I can clean it. Will no EGR solenoid throw a code ?
I went thru the fender to get the exhaust loose. Wish I had a header. Lets take our conversation to your thread here http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f105/n...9/#post7542261
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post #39 of 61 Old 11-02-2011, 11:45 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

can anyone post some pics of the engine bay, like some close ups of the vac lines. im starting to reassemble my motor after the head job and just want to make sure i have everything the right way thanks.
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post #40 of 61 Old 03-19-2012, 11:06 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Quote:
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I still haven't figured out what my "vacuum leak" is, either. It's a slightly rough idle paired with an occasional feeling that the motor is weak in low rpms. Seems to do fine at speed. Also seems to get better or go away completely after the truck's warmed up. It actually threw a misfire code a couple times, always within a minute or two of starting, with the A/C on -- p302, cylinder #2 misfire, both times. The plug always looks fine. I replaced it anyway to no effect. Starts instantly. This is not a severe problem--it's subtle, but it bothers me nonetheless.

Next step I guess would be to pull the intake, wiggle all the wires and retorque the lower manifold nuts.
Turned out to be the EGR. At least I think it was. I blocked it off and the rough idle/misfire when cool stopped also.
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post #41 of 61 Old 03-20-2012, 08:44 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

my tips are

leave the intake/exhaust manifolds on until you get the head out of the truck. if you have 2 people, you can lean over the sides and lift the head off from the manifolds. these heads arent light.

keep tract of your vacuum lines. i had vacuum line leaks for days after.

94-97 owners, DO NOT BREAK THE VACUUM MANIFOLD(vacuum spider). this is the little black box on top of the throttle body which has vac lines running to the FPR, the HVAC and everything else. they are impossible to find anywhere other then junkyards.

and last but not least, unless youre working with a certified mechanic, replace the actual gaskets yourself. i had a buddy help me, he ended up putting on the new intake gasket while i torqued the head. apparently hes never heard of a torque wrench or torque sequencing.

Louis~
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post #42 of 61 Old 03-22-2012, 10:41 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Good write up. I used crc copper block weld on mine worked awesome.
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post #43 of 61 Old 03-22-2012, 11:11 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I've done quite a few head gaskets on various vehicles. The 2.2L is probably the easiest one I've ever done. I could probably do the entire job in less than three hours if I were to focus on just working on the truck. My technique, is to remove the exhaust manifold and intake manifold and pull them to the sides before removing the head. The fuel line on the intake can be a real bastard to get off sometimes and don't even get me started on those stupid bolts that connect the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. If you are looking for something to grab on to, just bolt the thermostat housing back on to the front of the block. Lift using that and the EGR on the back of the block. You won't be able to get that EGR thing off anyways until you have the head out. If the head is stuck, give it a couple gentle whacks with a rubber mallet.

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post #44 of 61 Old 05-27-2012, 07:06 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

thanks for the great help with this write up..i just got a 2000 S-10 with the 2.2 and knew it had a blown head gasket by the water trick and a whole lot of experience..but didnt know what kind of jinky thing i was going to get into untill i tore it down..easy enough and the best part..i scored the truck for mowing a buddy's yard..he got several new cars and traded this one to me..he's a great guy.. new to the site and looking forward to visditing with you all nd learning about Chevy..thanks again for this write up..it is great
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post #45 of 61 Old 05-27-2012, 08:49 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

great score dude! how many miles on it?

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post #46 of 61 Old 02-21-2013, 07:34 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Started tearing Mine down this morning. got everything off the front great directions. pick up parts in the morning
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post #47 of 61 Old 03-05-2013, 08:35 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Hey guys got a question. I have done multiple head gaskets before, but always on Japanese cars. They always call for the head bolts to be coated with a thin film of motor oil. Is the same true for GMs?
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post #48 of 61 Old 03-06-2013, 04:52 AM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Not for the 2.2
The 43 to 46 ft. lbs. is to make sure the bolts are seated. Then the additional 90 degrees stretches the bolts. That's what you're after, the stretch, that's where the clamping force is generated. Torque to yield.

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post #49 of 61 Old 03-06-2013, 05:44 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mklimek4 View Post
ive never met a tutu that didnt sound like crap in idle :/
like by crap do you mean it idling smoothish then sorta cough every now and then? mine does this... but driving its perfectly fine.
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post #50 of 61 Old 07-24-2013, 04:14 PM
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Re: How-to 2.2l Head-Gasket job (tips/steps)

I've been working on my S10 for an hour hear and there for a while. (poor starving college student with no money so this is only my 2nd repair job). I am finally to the putting things back together stage and seem to have a loose vacuum hose from the vacuum hoses assembly off the top of the upper intake. I can't figure out where it goes.

Any ideas? it's a 1996 S10 2.2 L that I bought for 2 dollars.
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