*i compiled this during my head-gasket job with all the steps i took to get the job done, to do so i used the info from my haynes manual, along with plenty of other posts here on the forum. I figured this would be a nice in depth "how-to" for those not as dedicated to forum surfing as me*
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2.2L Head gasket job (tips/steps)
Vehicle= 1994 (non-4x4) Chevy s10 2.2l
Job approximate time (about 6hours per day working very carefully and slowly) = 3-4 days
Job approximate cost = $130 (without head resurface)
--------------------------------------------
1. Disconnect battery
2. Begin draining coolant by way of radiator drain
3. Remove air intake assembly (air filter/intake tubing)
4. Remove radiator fan shrouds (upper and lower)
10. Remove upper intake manifold
13. remove thermostat/water inlet (2 bolts)
15. Remove the rear engine lifting bracket (one bolt on top of rear external head bolt)
16. Remove exhaust manifold
20. using the “BIC pen method” move piston #1 to TDC
23. lift head assembly out of engine bay
24. After old gasket/remnants are removed check for cracks/warping on both head and block.
---------------------------------------
Tools:
• DEEP-WELL Metric socket set (6mm-16mm)
• Socket extensions of a variety of sizes
• Metric open-end wrench
• Razor-blade (or something to remove old gaskets)
• Flat-head /Phillips screwdriver
• BFH (of BFRH for those faint-hearted)
Parts and items to replace (aka shopping list):
• Exhaust manifold gasket set
• Head gasket
• Intake manifold gasket
• Valve cover gasket
• Water-pump gasket
• Thermostat (outlet to head) gasket
• Head bolt set
• Permatex “copper” gasket sealant (suggested)
• “Blue” RTV sealant
• Antifreeze
• Oil *highly suggested*
Things you can replace/upgrade while you are at it......
• Spark plugs / wires ($31 total)
• Fuel injectors ($80+ each = $320 total)
• Change “quick clamps” on water hoses to regular screw-down clamps
• Change old heater hoses to straight heater hosing (3/4” and 5/8” hoses)
• Thermostat/gasket ($10)
• Water-pump *probably why your changing your head-gasket to begin with* ($15)
• E-fan conversion
Notes:
• do not use sealant on rubber or coated gaskets only on cork, composite, and paper
• Using PB-Blast a day or two and on the day of removing bolts is a definite must
• If you start to round off a 13mm bolt/nut, after the first slip, switch to a ½” (it will be a tight fit)
Torque specs
camshaft sprocket bolt ........................................96
camshaft thrust plate bolts ..................................106 in-lbs
crankshaft pulley bolts.......................................... 37
crankshaft pulley/hub-to-crankshaft bolt...................77
cylinder head bolts
step 1
long bolts............................................. ..........46
short bolts............................................. .........43
step 2................................................. .............tighten additional 90*
engine mount-to-engine bolts.................................39
engine mount through bolts....................................38
engine mount bracket-to-frame bolts.......................33
exhaust manifold nuts...........................................115 in-lbs
flywheel/driveplate-to-cylinder head nuts/bolts
through 1998.............................................. ......24
1999-later............................................. ...........17
lifter guide retainer-to-block-stud............................97 in-lbs
oil pan bolts............................................. ............89 in-lbs
oil pump-to-block bolt............................................32
rocker arm studs............................................. ......37
rocker-arm nuts (bolts on 1999-later).......................19-22
timing chain cover bolts..........................................97 in-lbs
valve cover bolts............................................. ......89 in-lbs
head-bolt tightening sequence
how i marked and organized my push-rods and rocker-arms (and identification of both)
-------------------------------------------
2.2L Head gasket job (tips/steps)
Vehicle= 1994 (non-4x4) Chevy s10 2.2l
Job approximate time (about 6hours per day working very carefully and slowly) = 3-4 days
Job approximate cost = $130 (without head resurface)
--------------------------------------------
1. Disconnect battery
2. Begin draining coolant by way of radiator drain
3. Remove air intake assembly (air filter/intake tubing)
4. Remove radiator fan shrouds (upper and lower)
a. Mind the coolant crossover line attached to lower shroud
5. Remove clutch fan and pulleya. Rent a clutch fan remover tool from auto store (not the one for the clutch fans with one big bolt and attached to water-pump)
b. Otherwise, remove nuts by jamming a long object in between a bolt to prevent the fan/pulley assembly from spinning while you break and loosen the other 13mm bolts
6. Remove serpentine beltb. Otherwise, remove nuts by jamming a long object in between a bolt to prevent the fan/pulley assembly from spinning while you break and loosen the other 13mm bolts
a. 3/8 inch socket wrench with extender into square hole of tensioner and crank left
7. Begin removal of engine accessories (unbolt and move to side)a. Power steering (3 bolts accessible from holes in the pulley)
b. Ac compressor (2 bolts on accessory bracket, and 2 more on a bracket attached to valve cover)
c. Alternator (2 bolts on accessory bracket, 1 bolt on engine bracket)
i. You also must remove the bracket which holds the alternator, as this is attached the lower intake manifold to the block
8. Remove water-pump (to drain all antifreeze from block)b. Ac compressor (2 bolts on accessory bracket, and 2 more on a bracket attached to valve cover)
c. Alternator (2 bolts on accessory bracket, 1 bolt on engine bracket)
i. You also must remove the bracket which holds the alternator, as this is attached the lower intake manifold to the block
a. Will need to replace water-pump gasket
9. Remove the spark plug boots and set to side10. Remove upper intake manifold
a. Unhook vacuum lines to successfully lift the piece out
b. will need to replace upper intake manifold gasket
11. Disconnect connectors/sensors attached to intake manifold and others in that areab. will need to replace upper intake manifold gasket
a. also disconnect fuel injector connectors (all go in line, so no need to mark)
12. remove heater hose attached to inlet of heater-core/thermostat inlet13. remove thermostat/water inlet (2 bolts)
a. remove temp sensor connector
b. You may leave the heater hose (to heater-core) attached, by disconnecting from the heater-core, and removing at one unit.
c. There is a single 8mm bolt supporting the heater hose to the lower intake manifold
14. Remove dipstick tube (one bolt attached to exhaust manifold bolt nearest to firewall, and pull up and out)b. You may leave the heater hose (to heater-core) attached, by disconnecting from the heater-core, and removing at one unit.
c. There is a single 8mm bolt supporting the heater hose to the lower intake manifold
15. Remove the rear engine lifting bracket (one bolt on top of rear external head bolt)
16. Remove exhaust manifold
a. also unbolt the manifold from the exhaust downpipe(2 bolts)
b. may need to remove driver’s-side inner fender to access bolts
17. unbolt lower intake manifold b. may need to remove driver’s-side inner fender to access bolts
a. I found that due to the steel lines attacked, that it was easier to just unbolt the lower intake manifold itself
18. remove valve covera. will need to replace valve cover gasket (to be safe)
19. remove spark plugs20. using the “BIC pen method” move piston #1 to TDC
a. the engine cranks to the right
21. remove push rods/rocker armsa. when you remove push rods and rocker arms (make note of where they came from for reassembly)
b. also when you reassemble the rocker arms/push rods per cylinder, it is highly suggested to move the piston in the respective cylinder to TDC (otherwise, some valves will be in compression which will mess up your torque setting when you bolt them back down)
22. remove head boltsb. also when you reassemble the rocker arms/push rods per cylinder, it is highly suggested to move the piston in the respective cylinder to TDC (otherwise, some valves will be in compression which will mess up your torque setting when you bolt them back down)
23. lift head assembly out of engine bay
24. After old gasket/remnants are removed check for cracks/warping on both head and block.
a. have mill resurface or replace head/block accordingly
25. For reassembly do everything in reversea. Reinstall head-gasket and new head bolts with specified torque settings
i. If any, use the copper head-gasket sealant spray to seal gasket
b. Remember to put each cylinder at TDC when reassembling the push-rods and rocker arms
i. “also when you reassemble the rocker arms/push rods per cylinder, it is highly suggested to move the piston in the respective cylinder to TDC (otherwise, some valves will be in compression which will mess up your torque setting when you bolt them back down) “
i. If any, use the copper head-gasket sealant spray to seal gasket
b. Remember to put each cylinder at TDC when reassembling the push-rods and rocker arms
i. “also when you reassemble the rocker arms/push rods per cylinder, it is highly suggested to move the piston in the respective cylinder to TDC (otherwise, some valves will be in compression which will mess up your torque setting when you bolt them back down) “
---------------------------------------
Tools:
• DEEP-WELL Metric socket set (6mm-16mm)
• Socket extensions of a variety of sizes
• Metric open-end wrench
• Razor-blade (or something to remove old gaskets)
• Flat-head /Phillips screwdriver
• BFH (of BFRH for those faint-hearted)
Parts and items to replace (aka shopping list):
• Exhaust manifold gasket set
• Head gasket
• Intake manifold gasket
• Valve cover gasket
• Water-pump gasket
• Thermostat (outlet to head) gasket
• Head bolt set
• Permatex “copper” gasket sealant (suggested)
• “Blue” RTV sealant
• Antifreeze
• Oil *highly suggested*
Things you can replace/upgrade while you are at it......
• Spark plugs / wires ($31 total)
• Fuel injectors ($80+ each = $320 total)
• Change “quick clamps” on water hoses to regular screw-down clamps
• Change old heater hoses to straight heater hosing (3/4” and 5/8” hoses)
• Thermostat/gasket ($10)
• Water-pump *probably why your changing your head-gasket to begin with* ($15)
• E-fan conversion
Notes:
• do not use sealant on rubber or coated gaskets only on cork, composite, and paper
• Using PB-Blast a day or two and on the day of removing bolts is a definite must
• If you start to round off a 13mm bolt/nut, after the first slip, switch to a ½” (it will be a tight fit)
Torque specs
camshaft sprocket bolt ........................................96
camshaft thrust plate bolts ..................................106 in-lbs
crankshaft pulley bolts.......................................... 37
crankshaft pulley/hub-to-crankshaft bolt...................77
cylinder head bolts
step 1
long bolts............................................. ..........46
short bolts............................................. .........43
step 2................................................. .............tighten additional 90*
engine mount-to-engine bolts.................................39
engine mount through bolts....................................38
engine mount bracket-to-frame bolts.......................33
exhaust manifold nuts...........................................115 in-lbs
flywheel/driveplate-to-cylinder head nuts/bolts
through 1998.............................................. ......24
1999-later............................................. ...........17
lifter guide retainer-to-block-stud............................97 in-lbs
oil pan bolts............................................. ............89 in-lbs
oil pump-to-block bolt............................................32
rocker arm studs............................................. ......37
rocker-arm nuts (bolts on 1999-later).......................19-22
timing chain cover bolts..........................................97 in-lbs
valve cover bolts............................................. ......89 in-lbs
head-bolt tightening sequence
how i marked and organized my push-rods and rocker-arms (and identification of both)