test my knowledge-

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by luvtruck

i got a couple questions...i got a 93 2.5 that i got for $250 bucks that i was going to use for a parts truck but i changed my mind and now i want to drive it...i got it from a guy that bought it from a mechanic/tow service...he said the mechanic said all it needed was a head gasket....i came across a rebuilt 2.5 with no accessories and just decided to make a swap...the plan was to use all the 93 accessories alt/intake/carb and so on...i went to change the intake manifold...it turns out that the heads are not the same..the rebuilt one is i guess older..i don't know what year...are the heads interchangeable or do i need to get an intake for that year 2.5? if the head gasket blew, whats the chance of messing up the head?....and are the distributors interchangeable? they dont have the same cap....ant help would be great..i don't know anything bout these motors..thanks

the heads are interchangeable and so is the distributor, i would prefer the newer head since it flows better, but also you are probably on a budget, use the older head, just look for apparent cracks, and you should be in the clear. i would use the distributor that is already in the engine that you are putting in, leave it in so you dont mess up the timing... easy fix... most parts are interchangable, but you do have to buy new head bolts, they are torque to spec, and they stretch... its a must or you will eventually will have a blowed head gasket again or worse, a broke bolt in the block

[luvtruck]

i can use the head from the 93 if you think it would be better.....i was just worried bout that head being warped or something since it broke down and got towed a long time ago...i'll just inspect it real good and swap it over...i can't use the head bolts in it now?
the distributor on the 93 has 2 plugs and the other has one..is this a prob or just leave it hanging?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by luvtruck

i can use the head from the 93 if you think it would be better.....i was just worried bout that head being warped or something since it broke down and got towed a long time ago...i'll just inspect it real good and swap it over...i can't use the head bolts in it now?
the distributor on the 93 has 2 plugs and the other has one..is this a prob or just leave it hanging?

shouldnt be a problem, but the head bolts stretch when you torque them down, and if you torque them down again, they are liable to break, i have broke 4 in one block one time, then i asked a friend why, and explained it to me in more detail, but basically they are trash when u pull them, especially after a blown head/ head gasket

[joecool14u2]

you know the haines manual dont tell the heads bolts are trash, man am i glad i listened to irondukeman and put new ones in, the haines manual leaves out a lot of stuff, irondukeman we need to rewrite that book, its out dated, glad to hear swap is coming on good, what worry you bought the wiring?, get fire to it and let her run, i have on a lot of trucks run the alt hot straight to bat and then to rest of stuff, never a prob, works good, some say its bad on bat though, but i never had a prob, charged bat much better, especially on old dodge trucks, alt these days have regulator built in, the rest you can leave the same huh? are you gonna run a carb? seems much easier then injection, bolt on a fuel pump highperformance, SKIP ALL THE COMPUTERS SHIT and no prob, are you going to pass emissions, you can tag it in my county and you dont need it hehehe, remember im not to far awaY

[kamesama980]

ya, bad practive to EVER reuse head bolts TTY (torque to yield) or not. reusing TTY bolts is suicide though.

basically, as you put force into something, it passes through several stages, first is the elastic stage where it will bend back into place when the force is removed. at the end of that stage is the yield point after which the bolt does NOT return to it's original size/shape/length/etc. TTY bolts can be identified by the torqueing process involves going to XX ftlbs then YY degrees past that point.

If you're worried about head straightness, get it checked. any machine shop can do it and it ought to be only a few bucks. Iron heads are less prone to this than Aluminum and since you don't have cams in the head, they aren't terribly sensitive to milling for straightness.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

you know the haines manual dont tell the heads bolts are trash, man am i glad i listened to irondukeman and put new ones in, the haines manual leaves out a lot of stuff, irondukeman we need to rewrite that book, its out dated, glad to hear swap is coming on good, what worry you bought the wiring?, get fire to it and let her run, i have on a lot of trucks run the alt hot straight to bat and then to rest of stuff, never a prob, works good, some say its bad on bat though, but i never had a prob, charged bat much better, especially on old dodge trucks, alt these days have regulator built in, the rest you can leave the same huh? are you gonna run a carb? seems much easier then injection, bolt on a fuel pump highperformance, SKIP ALL THE COMPUTERS SHIT and no prob, are you going to pass emissions, you can tag it in my county and you dont need it hehehe, remember im not to far awaY

lol, i had that idea, but i want to stay organized with it, i have the book of wiring diagrams for the s10 which will come in handy when im ready so i can hook it up and it will function properly and i am going to take you up on that tad thing, i can do it in butts county but i dont want to ride around in a fast s10 with butts tags...

[luvtruck]

thanks for the info guys...i got the head off and put back on no prob..no broke bolts....thanks alot bout the bolts..i sure would have used the old ones....the motor is back in the truck not hooked up yet..got dark....but anyway...thanks

[Rizzle]

lol yeah tty bolts aren't supposed to be re-useable - but i don't care and mine still haven't broke after being 15 years old and pulled off 4 times in a year. hell i even switched torque patterns for old to new to old to new (tq to specs, the new one is tq then 90*) and i haven't had any problems yet. Check your exhuast valves seats when you have them off, the iron heads are more prone to that then cracking/warping the deck surface. my 91 head had two and my reman'd head had 2 repaired, the middle ones will prolably be the first ones to look at they were the ones on both heads i had.

[racer22]

RIZZEL where do you race. I'm in NW OHIO

[beaniebmx]

found out my truck doesnt like to start in the cold, it knocks at high rpms, it started this THE SECOND I DROVE OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP GARAGE.. paid them to fix my EST problem=ignition module, and it started knocking and died on me and so on.

well it still knocks at high rpms, its fine at low rpms.

my dad wants to buy it off me this spring so i can buy a 2nd gen s10, his has about 90 problems, blah blah but finding one wont be easy all the ones here are 4x4 and 4x overpriced

[chucked]

I wish u were closer bmx, because I have a computer that will read everything your truck is doing, I bet I could figure out exactly whats wrong

[beaniebmx]

Quote: Originally Posted by chucked

I wish u were closer bmx, because I have a computer that will read everything your truck is doing, I bet I could figure out exactly whats wrong

your "computer" would be getting translations from aliens and satellites for a few weeks.

it drives fine, just sounds like popcorn in my exhaust and is getting bad mileage, doesnt like to start from cold weather, and thats about it..

instead of putting it on a computer, put it on steroids

[chucked]

you obviously have no clue about what kind of computer I have, not to mention how much is costs.

[beaniebmx]

it was sarcasm, your sense of humor got Chucked out the window

im on a roll today!

the engine isnt really doing much.. the stock water temp coolant sensor is hooked up but just danginling, as the gauge on the dash doesnt work, so an aftermarket water temp was plugged into the thermostat to view temps, i need to know the temperature cause i have an electric fan, with a manuel switch, i had 92304 problems with the temp controlled turn on/off, it would turn on and off about 20 times in 5 minutes, to the point of it draining my battery one day.

i have no cat converter, so im sure no cat+ no coolant temp sensor= big loss in MPG, also since the coolant isnt hooked up/working, its not going into closed loop, so its not running to 100% ability of closed loop.

im waiting on irondukeman to get me both sensors

if they dont fix my mpg, ill be looking for a new vehicle, if im gonna get 14mpg city, i want a 4.3l, so i can atleast have some horsepower and sound to the shitty mpg

[chucked]

DUDE LISTEN, this computer will tell you EVERYTHING THE TRUCK IS DOING, shit you never even heard of. it tells you what and when and how the fuel ratio is, every sensors pressure temperature and voltage, what the ecm is doing, along with what everythign should be, and what the wanted values are, it also gives you iac counts, misfire counts, ignition timing, it tells you stuff there isnt even sensors for and I have no idea how it comes up with the values!! dude I havent even given 10% of what it displays values for. With this computer, you will know exactly what is wrong, it takes only minutes also, in under an hour, the problem can be 100% recognized along with every other system of the truck. it also does complete system tests, you get the truck up to temperature, press enter and about a minute later it will give you a complete system analysis, cylinder contribution tests, running compression tests (no idea how it comes up with that). to replace a sensor and hope for the best is foolish, UNLESS like in my case, where it said my engine temp was 300 degrees, then in turn my ECM was reading it wrong and was the culprit.

[beaniebmx]

the price of gas to get to maryland+hotel and food+missing out on work, would outweigh the cost of just replacing sensors and driving the doors off and selling it

the body is mostly rust free, just on the gas door, on the rear bottom of the bed corners, and the rocker panels, so the body is in good condition so its not like i cant get what i paid for it

plus im wanting a 4.3l or 5.7l 350 v8.. i can only wish

i had it on the dealerships computer system twice, and it didnt even pick up that my ecm was bad.. it was what was causing the problems AFTER i got it back from the dealership the first time

[kamesama980]

Quote: Originally Posted by chucked

DUDE LISTEN, this computer will tell you EVERYTHING THE TRUCK IS DOING, shit you never even heard of. it tells you what and when and how the fuel ratio is, every sensors pressure temperature and voltage, what the ecm is doing, along with what everythign should be, and what the wanted values are, it also gives you iac counts, misfire counts, ignition timing, it tells you stuff there isnt even sensors for and I have no idea how it comes up with the values!! dude I havent even given 10% of what it displays values for. With this computer, you will know exactly what is wrong, it takes only minutes also, in under an hour, the problem can be 100% recognized along with every other system of the truck. it also does complete system tests, you get the truck up to temperature, press enter and about a minute later it will give you a complete system analysis, cylinder contribution tests, running compression tests (no idea how it comes up with that). to replace a sensor and hope for the best is foolish, UNLESS like in my case, where it said my engine temp was 300 degrees, then in turn my ECM was reading it wrong and was the culprit.

Unless you KNOW it's bad because it fit's the failure pattern and shit don't work any better with it on :-p

BMX: you need a T fitting for the radiator hose...or even the thermostat bypass hose that goes to the manifold (small hose under the thermostat). I had one in the radiator hose in my cressida: http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...t=DSC00018.jpg look just above the radiator fan. hmmm, yes right next to the thermostat housing in the small hose. barb to T fitting with jsut the right size bushing so the thermocouple tip is in the flow, to a street bend then another barb....haha sorry, wandered off there a bit thinking out loud :-p hit me up on AIM using this SN or PM me about the electronic thermostat for the fans if you're still interested in getting it working.

[beaniebmx]

the previous owner had a temp probe for the relay shoved into the radiator fins on the top left. radiator sprung a leak, so i replaced it, tried to pull the temp probe out and salvage it, but it broke, so i just cut it off and hard wired the fan to a toggle switch.

i dont think ima dump any more money into this thing other than the 2 sensors, im really wanting a bagged truck or a 350 v8 truck. id love both combined...

ive wanted bagged for along time, and i dont want to bag this truck, id rather have a 2nd gen.

my dad wants to buy my truck this spring. but i wont have enough money by then to buy a bagged truck off here or anything. and so on, its so confusing on what i want anymore

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

found out my truck doesnt like to start in the cold, it knocks at high rpms, it started this THE SECOND I DROVE OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP GARAGE.. paid them to fix my EST problem=ignition module, and it started knocking and died on me and so on.

well it still knocks at high rpms, its fine at low rpms.

my dad wants to buy it off me this spring so i can buy a 2nd gen s10, his has about 90 problems, blah blah but finding one wont be easy all the ones here are 4x4 and 4x overpriced

throw some heavy duty lube in it and drive it till it falls apart

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

the previous owner had a temp probe for the relay shoved into the radiator fins on the top left. radiator sprung a leak, so i replaced it, tried to pull the temp probe out and salvage it, but it broke, so i just cut it off and hard wired the fan to a toggle switch.

i dont think ima dump any more money into this thing other than the 2 sensors, im really wanting a bagged truck or a 350 v8 truck. id love both combined...

ive wanted bagged for along time, and i dont want to bag this truck, id rather have a 2nd gen.

my dad wants to buy my truck this spring. but i wont have enough money by then to buy a bagged truck off here or anything. and so on, its so confusing on what i want anymore

you pay for shipping ill send you a good 350/350 for $450, its a 325hp from a nove, its 4 bolt main and the tranny is a long shaft

[beaniebmx]

put yourself in the box and install it and we can call it a deal

what im gonna do, is just buy the few parts i need for the truck, drive its doors off, buy camera and bmx bike parts that i need, clothes, blah blah, and save money on the side, then next spring, buy a 1998-2002 s10!!! that way its the best of both worlds..

so now onto what i need from you.

coolant temp sensor for the thermostat, i just need the sensor
coolant gauge sensor for the back of the head, again just need the sensor
more horsepower, just need enough to do a massive burnout

all i can find is universal sensors that dont look like the ones i need.

if you can show me a place to order both, that would be great

[irondukeman]

within the next day or so, i am going to post a pic by pic of how to change valve seals without removing the head, and a pic by pic 2.5 to 5.7 swap with full detail enough to write a book with. Later i will do a pic by pic on how to rebuild the borg warner 5 speed and how to rebuilt the auto tranny behind thes iron dukes. just completed the valve job on a buddies 2.5 and took pics the whole way across, did my 350 too (same valve seals, umbrellas) and my next job is to rework the 5 speed we snatched out of it, and i am filling my mass storage drive with s10 crap lol

[beaniebmx]

so about those temp sensors

well, it was -18F today, took me 30 minutes to get to work=5 blocks. i jumpstarted it, fired right up, let it idle for a good 5 minutes before heading off, didnt know it was so cold, clutch and ignition key were frozen.. i go to take off.. blah truck dies before moving 4 inches.. tried to jump it again, it just sat cranking... finally got it started, walmart batteries suck ass

[joecool14u2]

hey iron duke, my driveshaft has vibrated till my tailhousing on t5 is loose, is there a bearing there i need to replace, autozone list a kwick sleeve for 44 dollars is this what im after, and beaniebmx, did you not get a battery blanket, this is something your going to need where you live i know from expeirence ok

[beaniebmx]

no battery blanket, we wrapped it in fiberglass insulation, top bottom sides battery tray, packed it around the front nice and good, but when its -18F, the coldness still penetrates through enough to drain cranking amps.

i unhooked all connections on the battery, had a 4 AWG connector with my electronic wires hooked in, amp, fan, aux lights, and still, battery dead, its all cleaned and no corrosion. parents let me park in the garage tonight, and it fired right up once inside for 3 hours, charged my battery and my jump start battery i keep inside cab. fires right up like normal. its supposed to start warming up, it only has starting problems when its in the single digits.

itsa walmart battery.. so that probably dont help any

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

hey iron duke, my driveshaft has vibrated till my tailhousing on t5 is loose, is there a bearing there i need to replace, autozone list a kwick sleeve for 44 dollars is this what im after, and beaniebmx, did you not get a battery blanket, this is something your going to need where you live i know from expeirence ok

either that or a new tailshaft off another tranny, those bushings are hard to put in, have to be lined up and greased right. if you want, you can bring it down here and ill help you put it in

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

no battery blanket, we wrapped it in fiberglass insulation, top bottom sides battery tray, packed it around the front nice and good, but when its -18F, the coldness still penetrates through enough to drain cranking amps.

i unhooked all connections on the battery, had a 4 AWG connector with my electronic wires hooked in, amp, fan, aux lights, and still, battery dead, its all cleaned and no corrosion. parents let me park in the garage tonight, and it fired right up once inside for 3 hours, charged my battery and my jump start battery i keep inside cab. fires right up like normal. its supposed to start warming up, it only has starting problems when its in the single digits.

itsa walmart battery.. so that probably dont help any

i found all of hem, i have 8 of em, all stock and i think they all are good, but you can install them and find one that works correctly. i have starting problems too when its that cold out, not the truck but myself lol... if you can get an optima you would be better off i think, try buying a diesel truck battery with huge cranking amps, they are better built, last long and spin your engine around better. i have used them alot and i prefer them over car batteries. frieghtliner, mack ect... dealers sell them- i believe they even have a brand for cold weather, but not sure

[kamesama980]

battery blanket won't help when the car sits overnight anyway. They're more to keep the battery from getting too warm during long highway runs anyway. keep in mind a blanket only blocks the transfer of heat. without a metabolism, the battery doesn't have anything to keep itself warm under the blanket.

[beaniebmx]

i just bought a coolant temp sensor and he gauge sensor on the back of the head, installed them, and ive still got nothing, truck drives and runs the same, still sounds like popcorn from the exhaust, my dash gauge still doesnt work. i took a pin and pulled the coolant gauge level up to 200, turned truck to on position and it bottomed out and wont come up, aftermarket gauge said it was 190-200*F before i hooked it all up, so i know the water was hot and steamy.

im thinking my dash gauge is broken itself

parents said bush passed the bill so apparently im getting a $500 check plus my tax return, so ill have enough money to get a cat welded in.

the thing is, it will idle fine, i was at the bank, idling fine, then it started to chug, and popcorn sound was horrible, then went back to normal idle with less popcorn sound. my timing stays at 8* pretty good, it moves around a little, but not enough to really think somethings up, itll go from 7-9 so its not major. i think ill just have the shop put a cat converter on in a few weeks and if that dont fix it, then ill drive the doors off, and keep driving till i send a piston through the block, and then keep driving till its on fire, and then piss on it and drive it home

[joecool14u2]

irondukeman, i might take you up on that offer, tried call you, no luck, i be in atlantla tomorrow, working in lithonia, i adjust timing 8* btdc and no power, turns exhaust manifold cherry red, i adjust all the way counter clockwise and i get awesome rev abillity good pull even at 70, is there a timing advance thats not working or what, maybe worn timing gears, what i hear ticking, but i installed new tires and still have the darn vibration, push clutch in it goes away, installed new universals again, front one seemed a little tight? when i put new one in? and BEANIEBMX a blanket for the battery if you had clicked the links i post earlier are plug in at night 110 volts, keep battery toasty all night like being in garage(something i never had buddy) thrity bucks it should last you 20 years or so just take care of it only use it when its really cold, truckers will plug there big rig in at night, deisels have heaters not only under the battery but in the engine oil also, look at the front grill close you will see a house plug, sometimes there hanging down below

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

irondukeman, i might take you up on that offer, tried call you, no luck, i be in atlantla tomorrow, working in lithonia, i adjust timing 8* btdc and no power, turns exhaust manifold cherry red, i adjust all the way counter clockwise and i get awesome rev abillity good pull even at 70, is there a timing advance thats not working or what, maybe worn timing gears, what i hear ticking, but i installed new tires and still have the darn vibration, push clutch in it goes away, installed new universals again, front one seemed a little tight? when i put new one in? and BEANIEBMX a blanket for the battery if you had clicked the links i post earlier are plug in at night 110 volts, keep battery toasty all night like being in garage(something i never had buddy) thrity bucks it should last you 20 years or so just take care of it only use it when its really cold, truckers will plug there big rig in at night, deisels have heaters not only under the battery but in the engine oil also, look at the front grill close you will see a house plug, sometimes there hanging down below

yeah, i soaked my phone in ATF the other day, my new number is 7706896551, call anytime, im still about thirty minutes from lithonia, ill be up around moreland ave all day, i carry tools everywere i go, so come on over..bring your timing light too

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

yeah, i soaked my phone in ATF the other day, my new number is 7706896551, call anytime, im still about thirty minutes from lithonia, ill be up around moreland ave all day, i carry tools everywere i go, so come on over..bring your timing light too

i jumped a b terminals and set timing, worked good, i wonder if beaniebmx did that when checking his? i'll call you tomorrow, really need to do something bout that vibration, and i have never installed one of those kwik sleeves

[beaniebmx]

yes joe i jumped the terminals, the first time, we didnt, my dad did it all while i watched, its been so long since hes worked on cars. he used to work on cars back when he was 16, my grandpa/his dad used to do hotrods, and still does to this day, so my dad has had his fair share of muscle cars, 69 camaro, chevelle ss, 454? firebird he traded, guy wrapped it around a telephone poll, and a bunch more.

we didnt think it was the right way, so i went back and checked and tried it the way it says, and got it to 8* with the terminal jumped.

the reason i went back, is because with it timed to 8* unjumped, the truck bogged and ran like complete crap

[beaniebmx]

my dad wants to know why hes getting GAS in his OIL, its a 1992 dodge dakota 3.9l v6, i know its not an s10, but he wants a good idea on what to replace. were thinking his injector seals are bad?

its not losing water so headgaskets are still good.

could it be his injector seals so its dripping fuel down into the cylinders when its turned off, getting past the seals into the oil?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

my dad wants to know why hes getting GAS in his OIL, its a 1992 dodge dakota 3.9l v6, i know its not an s10, but he wants a good idea on what to replace. were thinking his injector seals are bad?

its not losing water so headgaskets are still good.

could it be his injector seals so its dripping fuel down into the cylinders when its turned off, getting past the seals into the oil?

thats exactly what it happening, its dripping while the engine is off, running down the cylinder walls into the oil... quick fix

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

yes joe i jumped the terminals, the first time, we didnt, my dad did it all while i watched, its been so long since hes worked on cars. he used to work on cars back when he was 16, my grandpa/his dad used to do hotrods, and still does to this day, so my dad has had his fair share of muscle cars, 69 camaro, chevelle ss, 454? firebird he traded, guy wrapped it around a telephone poll, and a bunch more.

we didnt think it was the right way, so i went back and checked and tried it the way it says, and got it to 8* with the terminal jumped.

the reason i went back, is because with it timed to 8* unjumped, the truck bogged and ran like complete crap

i went through the same thing, haynes manual does not say to jump the terminals

[beaniebmx]

haynes manuel was written off of a napkin, some stuff it tells you, other stuff it doesnt. on the radiator/core support under the hood, theres 2 diagrams, one says belt routing, other says spark plug gap size and so on, says to jump the diagnostic terminal, see theres no check engine code flashing? and then time it and unground and check its not flashing, something along those lines


i seen to have sprung an airleak. after running my truck and popping the hood, you can hear a sssssssss when you shut it off, its coming near the blower box, i cant seem to find it.. im thinking its my a/c system?

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

haynes manuel was written off of a napkin, some stuff it tells you, other stuff it doesnt. on the radiator/core support under the hood, theres 2 diagrams, one says belt routing, other says spark plug gap size and so on, says to jump the diagnostic terminal, see theres no check engine code flashing? and then time it and unground and check its not flashing, something along those lines


i seen to have sprung an airleak. after running my truck and popping the hood, you can hear a sssssssss when you shut it off, its coming near the blower box, i cant seem to find it.. im thinking its my a/c system?

yeah i read a few post about that somewhere, do you hear it inside the truck, where the heater/ac controls are, it might be a vacuum leak, if it ti the acc system itself that i cant help you with, never had a working acc system or wanted one

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

yeah i read a few post about that somewhere, do you hear it inside the truck, where the heater/ac controls are, it might be a vacuum leak, if it ti the acc system itself that i cant help you with, never had a working acc system or wanted one

check the brake booster vacuum line, i have had a couple leak before

[chucked]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

the price of gas to get to maryland+hotel and food+missing out on work, would outweigh the cost of just replacing sensors and driving the doors off and selling it

the body is mostly rust free, just on the gas door, on the rear bottom of the bed corners, and the rocker panels, so the body is in good condition so its not like i cant get what i paid for it

plus im wanting a 4.3l or 5.7l 350 v8.. i can only wish

i had it on the dealerships computer system twice, and it didnt even pick up that my ecm was bad.. it was what was causing the problems AFTER i got it back from the dealership the first time

DUDE THERE IS NO COMPUTER THAT IS GOING TO SAY "Hey man, the ECM is bad, you should replace it." but what i was getting was "engine temperature 300* (C)"

I always say that those manuals were writted by a backyard mechanic with a camera a mullet.

[kamesama980]

Quote: Originally Posted by chucked

DUDE THERE IS NO COMPUTER THAT IS GOING TO SAY "Hey man, the ECM is bad, you should replace it." but what i was getting was "engine temperature 300* (C)"

I always say that those manuals were writted by a backyard mechanic with a camera a mullet.

No, but some diagnosis computers can say "hey I'm getting a bunch of bad sensor signals" or other readings out of the proper range and that means the computer's bad. Don't make such global statements and you won't be as wrong.

you're right about the books tho: look on the second page. it shows a photo of a mechanic, writer, and photographer. if someone forgot something or didn't write it down...it was left out.


BMX: if you can hear the AC leaking, you won't hear it more than once or twice before it's empty.

[beaniebmx]

im thinking its the brake booster area, because i poked around the wires moving them around and heard the hissing stop, and it came back a few seconds later, kept messing around and couldnt get it to stop.

if you rest your foot on the brake pedal too much the brake light will come on, but my brakes dont start slowing down any noticeable amount till about 3/8-1/2 way down? brakes work good though. pads still have alot of life though.

too lazy/pissed off to check, after seeing my mileage bottom out at 14mpg city, im too pissed off at the truck to work on it unless it needs it

[chucked]

Quote: Originally Posted by kamesama980

No, but some diagnosis computers can say "hey I'm getting a bunch of bad sensor signals" or other readings out of the proper range and that means the computer's bad. Don't make such global statements and you won't be as wrong.

you're right about the books tho: look on the second page. it shows a photo of a mechanic, writer, and photographer. if someone forgot something or didn't write it down...it was left out.


BMX: if you can hear the AC leaking, you won't hear it more than once or twice before it's empty.

dude, you just said the same exact thing I said!

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

im thinking its the brake booster area, because i poked around the wires moving them around and heard the hissing stop, and it came back a few seconds later, kept messing around and couldnt get it to stop.

if you rest your foot on the brake pedal too much the brake light will come on, but my brakes dont start slowing down any noticeable amount till about 3/8-1/2 way down? brakes work good though. pads still have alot of life though.

too lazy/pissed off to check, after seeing my mileage bottom out at 14mpg city, im too pissed off at the truck to work on it unless it needs it

sounds about normal really, is there a noticeable change from previous?

[kamesama980]

Quote: Originally Posted by chucked

dude, you just said the same exact thing I said!

wrong. I said a computer CAN diagnose ECU failure.

[beaniebmx]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

sounds about normal really, is there a noticeable change from previous?

my brake lights have ALWAYS done this since i bought the truck may 21st 2007

the hissing i just noticed awhile ago.

the mileage has stayed at 14mpg since snow fall, i remember seeing it at 18mpg city in the fall around august

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

my brake lights have ALWAYS done this since i bought the truck may 21st 2007

the hissing i just noticed awhile ago.

the mileage has stayed at 14mpg since snow fall, i remember seeing it at 18mpg city in the fall around august

get a motorcycle, they r good on gas, my wifes toyota gets 30 city and 36/38 hwy

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

get a motorcycle, they r good on gas, my wifes toyota gets 30 city and 36/38 hwy

wow, are we getting snappy? he is just a kid, still living at home

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

wow, are we getting snappy? he is just a kid, still living at home

nah, not snappy lol, i just got a motorcycle but i wont drive it, waaaaayyy to cold

[beaniebmx]

not sure how well a motorcycle will drive on a snowpacked/icy road when its 10F outside

hard enough to keep my truck in a straight line, feels like i have 900hp