test my knowledge-

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by luvtruck

i got a couple questions...i got a 93 2.5 that i got for $250 bucks that i was going to use for a parts truck but i changed my mind and now i want to drive it...i got it from a guy that bought it from a mechanic/tow service...he said the mechanic said all it needed was a head gasket....i came across a rebuilt 2.5 with no accessories and just decided to make a swap...the plan was to use all the 93 accessories alt/intake/carb and so on...i went to change the intake manifold...it turns out that the heads are not the same..the rebuilt one is i guess older..i don't know what year...are the heads interchangeable or do i need to get an intake for that year 2.5? if the head gasket blew, whats the chance of messing up the head?....and are the distributors interchangeable? they dont have the same cap....ant help would be great..i don't know anything bout these motors..thanks

the heads are interchangeable and so is the distributor, i would prefer the newer head since it flows better, but also you are probably on a budget, use the older head, just look for apparent cracks, and you should be in the clear. i would use the distributor that is already in the engine that you are putting in, leave it in so you dont mess up the timing... easy fix... most parts are interchangable, but you do have to buy new head bolts, they are torque to spec, and they stretch... its a must or you will eventually will have a blowed head gasket again or worse, a broke bolt in the block

[luvtruck]

i can use the head from the 93 if you think it would be better.....i was just worried bout that head being warped or something since it broke down and got towed a long time ago...i'll just inspect it real good and swap it over...i can't use the head bolts in it now?
the distributor on the 93 has 2 plugs and the other has one..is this a prob or just leave it hanging?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by luvtruck

i can use the head from the 93 if you think it would be better.....i was just worried bout that head being warped or something since it broke down and got towed a long time ago...i'll just inspect it real good and swap it over...i can't use the head bolts in it now?
the distributor on the 93 has 2 plugs and the other has one..is this a prob or just leave it hanging?

shouldnt be a problem, but the head bolts stretch when you torque them down, and if you torque them down again, they are liable to break, i have broke 4 in one block one time, then i asked a friend why, and explained it to me in more detail, but basically they are trash when u pull them, especially after a blown head/ head gasket

[joecool14u2]

you know the haines manual dont tell the heads bolts are trash, man am i glad i listened to irondukeman and put new ones in, the haines manual leaves out a lot of stuff, irondukeman we need to rewrite that book, its out dated, glad to hear swap is coming on good, what worry you bought the wiring?, get fire to it and let her run, i have on a lot of trucks run the alt hot straight to bat and then to rest of stuff, never a prob, works good, some say its bad on bat though, but i never had a prob, charged bat much better, especially on old dodge trucks, alt these days have regulator built in, the rest you can leave the same huh? are you gonna run a carb? seems much easier then injection, bolt on a fuel pump highperformance, SKIP ALL THE COMPUTERS SHIT and no prob, are you going to pass emissions, you can tag it in my county and you dont need it hehehe, remember im not to far awaY

[kamesama980]

ya, bad practive to EVER reuse head bolts TTY (torque to yield) or not. reusing TTY bolts is suicide though.

basically, as you put force into something, it passes through several stages, first is the elastic stage where it will bend back into place when the force is removed. at the end of that stage is the yield point after which the bolt does NOT return to it's original size/shape/length/etc. TTY bolts can be identified by the torqueing process involves going to XX ftlbs then YY degrees past that point.

If you're worried about head straightness, get it checked. any machine shop can do it and it ought to be only a few bucks. Iron heads are less prone to this than Aluminum and since you don't have cams in the head, they aren't terribly sensitive to milling for straightness.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

you know the haines manual dont tell the heads bolts are trash, man am i glad i listened to irondukeman and put new ones in, the haines manual leaves out a lot of stuff, irondukeman we need to rewrite that book, its out dated, glad to hear swap is coming on good, what worry you bought the wiring?, get fire to it and let her run, i have on a lot of trucks run the alt hot straight to bat and then to rest of stuff, never a prob, works good, some say its bad on bat though, but i never had a prob, charged bat much better, especially on old dodge trucks, alt these days have regulator built in, the rest you can leave the same huh? are you gonna run a carb? seems much easier then injection, bolt on a fuel pump highperformance, SKIP ALL THE COMPUTERS SHIT and no prob, are you going to pass emissions, you can tag it in my county and you dont need it hehehe, remember im not to far awaY

lol, i had that idea, but i want to stay organized with it, i have the book of wiring diagrams for the s10 which will come in handy when im ready so i can hook it up and it will function properly and i am going to take you up on that tad thing, i can do it in butts county but i dont want to ride around in a fast s10 with butts tags...

[luvtruck]

thanks for the info guys...i got the head off and put back on no prob..no broke bolts....thanks alot bout the bolts..i sure would have used the old ones....the motor is back in the truck not hooked up yet..got dark....but anyway...thanks

[Rizzle]

lol yeah tty bolts aren't supposed to be re-useable - but i don't care and mine still haven't broke after being 15 years old and pulled off 4 times in a year. hell i even switched torque patterns for old to new to old to new (tq to specs, the new one is tq then 90*) and i haven't had any problems yet. Check your exhuast valves seats when you have them off, the iron heads are more prone to that then cracking/warping the deck surface. my 91 head had two and my reman'd head had 2 repaired, the middle ones will prolably be the first ones to look at they were the ones on both heads i had.

[racer22]

RIZZEL where do you race. I'm in NW OHIO

[beaniebmx]

found out my truck doesnt like to start in the cold, it knocks at high rpms, it started this THE SECOND I DROVE OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP GARAGE.. paid them to fix my EST problem=ignition module, and it started knocking and died on me and so on.

well it still knocks at high rpms, its fine at low rpms.

my dad wants to buy it off me this spring so i can buy a 2nd gen s10, his has about 90 problems, blah blah but finding one wont be easy all the ones here are 4x4 and 4x overpriced

[chucked]

I wish u were closer bmx, because I have a computer that will read everything your truck is doing, I bet I could figure out exactly whats wrong

[beaniebmx]

Quote: Originally Posted by chucked

I wish u were closer bmx, because I have a computer that will read everything your truck is doing, I bet I could figure out exactly whats wrong

your "computer" would be getting translations from aliens and satellites for a few weeks.

it drives fine, just sounds like popcorn in my exhaust and is getting bad mileage, doesnt like to start from cold weather, and thats about it..

instead of putting it on a computer, put it on steroids

[chucked]

you obviously have no clue about what kind of computer I have, not to mention how much is costs.

[beaniebmx]

it was sarcasm, your sense of humor got Chucked out the window

im on a roll today!

the engine isnt really doing much.. the stock water temp coolant sensor is hooked up but just danginling, as the gauge on the dash doesnt work, so an aftermarket water temp was plugged into the thermostat to view temps, i need to know the temperature cause i have an electric fan, with a manuel switch, i had 92304 problems with the temp controlled turn on/off, it would turn on and off about 20 times in 5 minutes, to the point of it draining my battery one day.

i have no cat converter, so im sure no cat+ no coolant temp sensor= big loss in MPG, also since the coolant isnt hooked up/working, its not going into closed loop, so its not running to 100% ability of closed loop.

im waiting on irondukeman to get me both sensors

if they dont fix my mpg, ill be looking for a new vehicle, if im gonna get 14mpg city, i want a 4.3l, so i can atleast have some horsepower and sound to the shitty mpg

[chucked]

DUDE LISTEN, this computer will tell you EVERYTHING THE TRUCK IS DOING, shit you never even heard of. it tells you what and when and how the fuel ratio is, every sensors pressure temperature and voltage, what the ecm is doing, along with what everythign should be, and what the wanted values are, it also gives you iac counts, misfire counts, ignition timing, it tells you stuff there isnt even sensors for and I have no idea how it comes up with the values!! dude I havent even given 10% of what it displays values for. With this computer, you will know exactly what is wrong, it takes only minutes also, in under an hour, the problem can be 100% recognized along with every other system of the truck. it also does complete system tests, you get the truck up to temperature, press enter and about a minute later it will give you a complete system analysis, cylinder contribution tests, running compression tests (no idea how it comes up with that). to replace a sensor and hope for the best is foolish, UNLESS like in my case, where it said my engine temp was 300 degrees, then in turn my ECM was reading it wrong and was the culprit.

[beaniebmx]

the price of gas to get to maryland+hotel and food+missing out on work, would outweigh the cost of just replacing sensors and driving the doors off and selling it

the body is mostly rust free, just on the gas door, on the rear bottom of the bed corners, and the rocker panels, so the body is in good condition so its not like i cant get what i paid for it

plus im wanting a 4.3l or 5.7l 350 v8.. i can only wish

i had it on the dealerships computer system twice, and it didnt even pick up that my ecm was bad.. it was what was causing the problems AFTER i got it back from the dealership the first time

[kamesama980]

Quote: Originally Posted by chucked

DUDE LISTEN, this computer will tell you EVERYTHING THE TRUCK IS DOING, shit you never even heard of. it tells you what and when and how the fuel ratio is, every sensors pressure temperature and voltage, what the ecm is doing, along with what everythign should be, and what the wanted values are, it also gives you iac counts, misfire counts, ignition timing, it tells you stuff there isnt even sensors for and I have no idea how it comes up with the values!! dude I havent even given 10% of what it displays values for. With this computer, you will know exactly what is wrong, it takes only minutes also, in under an hour, the problem can be 100% recognized along with every other system of the truck. it also does complete system tests, you get the truck up to temperature, press enter and about a minute later it will give you a complete system analysis, cylinder contribution tests, running compression tests (no idea how it comes up with that). to replace a sensor and hope for the best is foolish, UNLESS like in my case, where it said my engine temp was 300 degrees, then in turn my ECM was reading it wrong and was the culprit.

Unless you KNOW it's bad because it fit's the failure pattern and shit don't work any better with it on :-p

BMX: you need a T fitting for the radiator hose...or even the thermostat bypass hose that goes to the manifold (small hose under the thermostat). I had one in the radiator hose in my cressida: http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...t=DSC00018.jpg look just above the radiator fan. hmmm, yes right next to the thermostat housing in the small hose. barb to T fitting with jsut the right size bushing so the thermocouple tip is in the flow, to a street bend then another barb....haha sorry, wandered off there a bit thinking out loud :-p hit me up on AIM using this SN or PM me about the electronic thermostat for the fans if you're still interested in getting it working.

[beaniebmx]

the previous owner had a temp probe for the relay shoved into the radiator fins on the top left. radiator sprung a leak, so i replaced it, tried to pull the temp probe out and salvage it, but it broke, so i just cut it off and hard wired the fan to a toggle switch.

i dont think ima dump any more money into this thing other than the 2 sensors, im really wanting a bagged truck or a 350 v8 truck. id love both combined...

ive wanted bagged for along time, and i dont want to bag this truck, id rather have a 2nd gen.

my dad wants to buy my truck this spring. but i wont have enough money by then to buy a bagged truck off here or anything. and so on, its so confusing on what i want anymore

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

found out my truck doesnt like to start in the cold, it knocks at high rpms, it started this THE SECOND I DROVE OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP GARAGE.. paid them to fix my EST problem=ignition module, and it started knocking and died on me and so on.

well it still knocks at high rpms, its fine at low rpms.

my dad wants to buy it off me this spring so i can buy a 2nd gen s10, his has about 90 problems, blah blah but finding one wont be easy all the ones here are 4x4 and 4x overpriced

throw some heavy duty lube in it and drive it till it falls apart

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

the previous owner had a temp probe for the relay shoved into the radiator fins on the top left. radiator sprung a leak, so i replaced it, tried to pull the temp probe out and salvage it, but it broke, so i just cut it off and hard wired the fan to a toggle switch.

i dont think ima dump any more money into this thing other than the 2 sensors, im really wanting a bagged truck or a 350 v8 truck. id love both combined...

ive wanted bagged for along time, and i dont want to bag this truck, id rather have a 2nd gen.

my dad wants to buy my truck this spring. but i wont have enough money by then to buy a bagged truck off here or anything. and so on, its so confusing on what i want anymore

you pay for shipping ill send you a good 350/350 for $450, its a 325hp from a nove, its 4 bolt main and the tranny is a long shaft

[beaniebmx]

put yourself in the box and install it and we can call it a deal

what im gonna do, is just buy the few parts i need for the truck, drive its doors off, buy camera and bmx bike parts that i need, clothes, blah blah, and save money on the side, then next spring, buy a 1998-2002 s10!!! that way its the best of both worlds..

so now onto what i need from you.

coolant temp sensor for the thermostat, i just need the sensor
coolant gauge sensor for the back of the head, again just need the sensor
more horsepower, just need enough to do a massive burnout

all i can find is universal sensors that dont look like the ones i need.

if you can show me a place to order both, that would be great

[irondukeman]

within the next day or so, i am going to post a pic by pic of how to change valve seals without removing the head, and a pic by pic 2.5 to 5.7 swap with full detail enough to write a book with. Later i will do a pic by pic on how to rebuild the borg warner 5 speed and how to rebuilt the auto tranny behind thes iron dukes. just completed the valve job on a buddies 2.5 and took pics the whole way across, did my 350 too (same valve seals, umbrellas) and my next job is to rework the 5 speed we snatched out of it, and i am filling my mass storage drive with s10 crap lol

[beaniebmx]

so about those temp sensors

well, it was -18F today, took me 30 minutes to get to work=5 blocks. i jumpstarted it, fired right up, let it idle for a good 5 minutes before heading off, didnt know it was so cold, clutch and ignition key were frozen.. i go to take off.. blah truck dies before moving 4 inches.. tried to jump it again, it just sat cranking... finally got it started, walmart batteries suck ass

[joecool14u2]

hey iron duke, my driveshaft has vibrated till my tailhousing on t5 is loose, is there a bearing there i need to replace, autozone list a kwick sleeve for 44 dollars is this what im after, and beaniebmx, did you not get a battery blanket, this is something your going to need where you live i know from expeirence ok

[beaniebmx]

no battery blanket, we wrapped it in fiberglass insulation, top bottom sides battery tray, packed it around the front nice and good, but when its -18F, the coldness still penetrates through enough to drain cranking amps.

i unhooked all connections on the battery, had a 4 AWG connector with my electronic wires hooked in, amp, fan, aux lights, and still, battery dead, its all cleaned and no corrosion. parents let me park in the garage tonight, and it fired right up once inside for 3 hours, charged my battery and my jump start battery i keep inside cab. fires right up like normal. its supposed to start warming up, it only has starting problems when its in the single digits.

itsa walmart battery.. so that probably dont help any

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

hey iron duke, my driveshaft has vibrated till my tailhousing on t5 is loose, is there a bearing there i need to replace, autozone list a kwick sleeve for 44 dollars is this what im after, and beaniebmx, did you not get a battery blanket, this is something your going to need where you live i know from expeirence ok

either that or a new tailshaft off another tranny, those bushings are hard to put in, have to be lined up and greased right. if you want, you can bring it down here and ill help you put it in

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

no battery blanket, we wrapped it in fiberglass insulation, top bottom sides battery tray, packed it around the front nice and good, but when its -18F, the coldness still penetrates through enough to drain cranking amps.

i unhooked all connections on the battery, had a 4 AWG connector with my electronic wires hooked in, amp, fan, aux lights, and still, battery dead, its all cleaned and no corrosion. parents let me park in the garage tonight, and it fired right up once inside for 3 hours, charged my battery and my jump start battery i keep inside cab. fires right up like normal. its supposed to start warming up, it only has starting problems when its in the single digits.

itsa walmart battery.. so that probably dont help any

i found all of hem, i have 8 of em, all stock and i think they all are good, but you can install them and find one that works correctly. i have starting problems too when its that cold out, not the truck but myself lol... if you can get an optima you would be better off i think, try buying a diesel truck battery with huge cranking amps, they are better built, last long and spin your engine around better. i have used them alot and i prefer them over car batteries. frieghtliner, mack ect... dealers sell them- i believe they even have a brand for cold weather, but not sure

[kamesama980]

battery blanket won't help when the car sits overnight anyway. They're more to keep the battery from getting too warm during long highway runs anyway. keep in mind a blanket only blocks the transfer of heat. without a metabolism, the battery doesn't have anything to keep itself warm under the blanket.

[beaniebmx]

i just bought a coolant temp sensor and he gauge sensor on the back of the head, installed them, and ive still got nothing, truck drives and runs the same, still sounds like popcorn from