test my knowledge-

[joecool14u2]

if i replace those lifters will that 2.5 quieten down some or is this going to be like this, i know everyone says there noisy but can i quieten it down for a bit? i run it without valve cover just long enough to see there is only about 3 of'em oiling good, and yes, the pushrods are clean, and no the rockers dont show signs of excive wear and the guy i got it from said today it sounds just like it did when he got it four years ago, yes even after all the work i've done to it blah blah blah, but it runs great tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tgick on idle noisy little bugger great gas 100miles 1/4 tank or less

[beaniebmx]

the ticking sound your hearing is the fuel injector, its a fact, the fuel injector will always make a tick tick ticking sound, my old one did, my brand new one does, its life.

i used to think it was my lifters and all that, but quickly found out on here, its just the fuel injector noise.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

the ticking sound your hearing is the fuel injector, its a fact, the fuel injector will always make a tick tick ticking sound, my old one did, my brand new one does, its life.

i used to think it was my lifters and all that, but quickly found out on here, its just the fuel injector noise.

either that or your cam gears, 2.5s run rollers, if they tap, your engine wont run right at all

[SgtM]

How do I disconnect the emergency brake? I'm trying to pull my dash to replace the heater core.

[irondukeman]

release the brakes, remove the end of the cable, from the keeper (the small braided cable with a stop clamp)and pull the plastic case around the cable off the bracket and it should pull directly out

[ratrod dime]

hey thanks about the map sensor thing. I took it to one autozone and they said it was good. So for the heck of it I took it to another one and they tested it out bad, so I got one from the junk yard for 2.00 and that one tested good, put it on, and the hickup was gone. thanks alot. now if only I could figure out my wipes, and dash lights. lol

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by ratrod dime

hey thanks about the map sensor thing. I took it to one autozone and they said it was good. So for the heck of it I took it to another one and they tested it out bad, so I got one from the junk yard for 2.00 and that one tested good, put it on, and the hickup was gone. thanks alot. now if only I could figure out my wipes, and dash lights. lol

usually autozone does a pretty good job, must have been a fluke, glad to hear that it is fixed, and junk yard parts are usually good as new...

[chucked]

junk yard parts good as new? 1st time i heard that one.... Ive been in autozone, those guys barely know how to check if their shoe laces are tied...

[winston856]

I've got a question

I've got an '88 2.5L 2wd reg cab reg bed (short bed?). We just redid the clutch on it amongst other things and before it went under the knife the clutch would not bite until the pedal was about 95% out then that last 5% was the biting point.

We've put a new master and slave cylinder on it as well as a new clutch and I was just wondering if there's any adjustment you can make to the clutch to change where the biting point is? I believe it's a hydraulic clutch so I don't know if there is any.

[SgtM]

Thanks for the help dude! With the exception of some wires, the dash is out.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by winston856

I've got a question

I've got an '88 2.5L 2wd reg cab reg bed (short bed?). We just redid the clutch on it amongst other things and before it went under the knife the clutch would not bite until the pedal was about 95% out then that last 5% was the biting point.

We've put a new master and slave cylinder on it as well as a new clutch and I was just wondering if there's any adjustment you can make to the clutch to change where the biting point is? I believe it's a hydraulic clutch so I don't know if there is any.

i might be wrong on this, but some after market clutch throw out bearings or the clutch springs cause that, being over sized i believe. on other cars, i have taken about a 1/2 inch off the slave cylinder pushrod (the end that enters the tranny)and it helped alot. just make sure you round off the end and make sure there are no burrs or rough spots that could hurt the seal
anybody agree?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by chucked

junk yard parts good as new? 1st time i heard that one.... Ive been in autozone, those guys barely know how to check if their shoe laces are tied...

autozoners is what they are called. if you know what to look for in a junk yard, you can get some good parts that work like new, in my opion, if it works right, its as good as new
most of the people that work at the closest autozone are ex mechanics or are very knowlegdable about cars. but the other close one, they are either *&*holes or idiots, everytime i go there, they sell me the wrong part or say they dont know what i am asking for, and i have to call the other store and get the part number

[joecool14u2]

i took the heater core out and back in with dash in, but now i know also to take out the bolt on passenger side of dash so you get a little more clearance for plastic cover, but on that tick tick im talkin bout is definitely not the injecter, i know what the injector sounds like my fullsize has two of'em and they are noisy, the one on s10 is a single and it ticks a little but not what i hear, and irondukeman, the guys at the chevy dealer in villa rica said the timing gears should not go bad until maybe 250 to 300 hundred thousand miles they also told me if the gears went bad it woould mean something catastrophic happened to my engine and i would have to get a new one but what about the rockers, if i dont have oil coming up the pushrods wont the rockers give a tick tick? just a thought! thought i might could put new lifters in, ever try that?

[beaniebmx]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

they sell me the wrong part or say they dont know what i am asking for, and i have to call the other store and get the part number

been there done that, tried to get a fuel injector oring set=2 orings, and the guy gave me a package with like 12 really tiny ones no diffrent sizes, oh this is for cpi, no tbi. went to othe rplace, yeah we have 1 of those.. it has 2orings.. but they are like.. made for a midget injector or something... however they did have the injector when i cracked mine, and at $85! ^^ place wanted $151, online wanted 140, place was napa that got me it cheap. most of the employees are teenagers=my friends

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

i took the heater core out and back in with dash in, but now i know also to take out the bolt on passenger side of dash so you get a little more clearance for plastic cover, but on that tick tick im talkin bout is definitely not the injecter, i know what the injector sounds like my fullsize has two of'em and they are noisy, the one on s10 is a single and it ticks a little but not what i hear, and irondukeman, the guys at the chevy dealer in villa rica said the timing gears should not go bad until maybe 250 to 300 hundred thousand miles they also told me if the gears went bad it woould mean something catastrophic happened to my engine and i would have to get a new one but what about the rockers, if i dont have oil coming up the pushrods wont the rockers give a tick tick? just a thought! thought i might could put new lifters in, ever try that?

i have had a bunch of the little engines man, i know all about them lol.. the cam gears go bad at about 120k simply because they are not even metal. they are carbon material that has teeth, and the teeth wear in the spaces between each other causing the cam to kinda rattle, sounding like the lifter. since the cam is hard to turn the cam goes, tick tick tick at the hard spot. i have expirience over alot of these guys that say, i have had one or two, i have had 23, going on the 24th and ran everyone of them and worked on everyone of them, never owned a new one, couldnt tell you what they even sound like new, most have had at least 100k with a few exceptions. it could be rocker arms, even without oil on them, if your lash is set correctly, you wont have the tick sound. did you properly set the lifters and zero lash? how did the cam look? did over heating it scar the cam/pushrods? did all your lifters prime before you put them in the block? alot of people dont check that and end up putting back bad lifters
ever cam gear set i have replaces ran like a champ afterwards, nothing catastrophic happened to them either- just worn out- but experience over books- you choose

[joecool14u2]

hey irondukeman, i am with you 100 percent! you say 120 uh, my truck has 145 so i think i will put them gears in soon, i didn't pull the lifters out, i pulled head off and stuck a new gasket under and back on the road she went, so lifters probably maintance list soon also or just pull em and clean em and that yellow stuff in breather no more happens since new headgasket! yeah i hooked the hose back up on back of breather gas mileage is better with it off though i think, hey, when i put the clutch kit i put new trans mount the old one was half gone, i think it was half gone for a reason, after 2 sets of u-joints and one different drive shaft the vibration is back, aaaahhaa i think i know !!!!!!!!pinion angle!!!!! new trans mount raised it up a good inch am i right i hope so, who ever put that t5 borg warner back in i think put the trans cross member upside down i didnt know better and i reinstalled it the way i took it out, it dont even look like the right one either, its all black and the only thing down there that is so i think i will see if i can flip it so as to get pinion angle back stock its been that way for a long time because someone had welded the stock replacement muffler to it, just didnt cause any problem with the support whittled down to nothing(old one didnt have the bolt at all)

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

i might be wrong on this, but some after market clutch throw out bearings or the clutch springs cause that, being over sized i believe. on other cars, i have taken about a 1/2 inch off the slave cylinder pushrod (the end that enters the tranny)and it helped alot. just make sure you round off the end and make sure there are no burrs or rough spots that could hurt the seal
anybody agree?

how does a half inch help? when i put clutch kit in all that seems to be pre set to work, i drove a lot of old old trucks and like a dump truck or a big rig you had to crawl under there and back that damn lock nut off and adjust the clutch manually with a combination wrench, on these little trucks it seems to not be enuogh clutch pressure to really require this, but taking off the half inch on pusher will make it bite much sooner and at the same time not disengage it as much either i would think, this is also gonna be hard to adjust it back later if you need to(new slave cylinder unit?) if you have a old unit or plan on purchasing a new one shave a little at a time till you acheive your goal? just some thoughts, irondukeman has done this and he has worked on a lot of these and he recka mends half a inch, from exp with old dump trucks and what not in clutch adjust ment it can vary on every truck, and what seems like a little can make a heck of a lot of difference in grinding gears and not at high rpms you need to fully disengage down there or you will ggrreeiinddd em till you find em like me he he i need all the help i can get, most time flipping radiio dials or on cell miss half gears

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

how does a half inch help? when i put clutch kit in all that seems to be pre set to work, i drove a lot of old old trucks and like a dump truck or a big rig you had to crawl under there and back that damn lock nut off and adjust the clutch manually with a combination wrench, on these little trucks it seems to not be enuogh clutch pressure to really require this, but taking off the half inch on pusher will make it bite much sooner and at the same time not disengage it as much either i would think, this is also gonna be hard to adjust it back later if you need to(new slave cylinder unit?) if you have a old unit or plan on purchasing a new one shave a little at a time till you acheive your goal? just some thoughts, irondukeman has done this and he has worked on a lot of these and he recka mends half a inch, from exp with old dump trucks and what not in clutch adjust ment it can vary on every truck, and what seems like a little can make a heck of a lot of difference in grinding gears and not at high rpms you need to fully disengage down there or you will ggrreeiinddd em till you find em like me he he i need all the help i can get, most time flipping radiio dials or on cell miss half gears

after thought! what about a custom bushing between bellhousing and slave cylinder!

[JML]

Hey guys I was checking the coolant level on the radiator and underneath the cap is a thick doo-doo brown liquid. Do you think my headgasket is blown?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

Hey guys I was checking the coolant level on the radiator and underneath the cap is a thick doo-doo brown liquid. Do you think my headgasket is blown?

is the doo doo oil? does the truck run like crap? how does the oil look?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

hey irondukeman, i am with you 100 percent! you say 120 uh, my truck has 145 so i think i will put them gears in soon, i didn't pull the lifters out, i pulled head off and stuck a new gasket under and back on the road she went, so lifters probably maintance list soon also or just pull em and clean em and that yellow stuff in breather no more happens since new headgasket! yeah i hooked the hose back up on back of breather gas mileage is better with it off though i think, hey, when i put the clutch kit i put new trans mount the old one was half gone, i think it was half gone for a reason, after 2 sets of u-joints and one different drive shaft the vibration is back, aaaahhaa i think i know !!!!!!!!pinion angle!!!!! new trans mount raised it up a good inch am i right i hope so, who ever put that t5 borg warner back in i think put the trans cross member upside down i didnt know better and i reinstalled it the way i took it out, it dont even look like the right one either, its all black and the only thing down there that is so i think i will see if i can flip it so as to get pinion angle back stock its been that way for a long time because someone had welded the stock replacement muffler to it, just didnt cause any problem with the support whittled down to nothing(old one didnt have the bolt at all)

if someone flipped the crossmember it will cause vibrations, but if the release point on the clutch is all the way at the top, taking off some metal off the pushrod will work and put the release point back into the middle, bushing is also a good idea, whatever works i guess

[TNewby7801]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

yup, one big injector, two seals, little one close to the nozzle, big one up top, you can change it with the motor in, just pull the injector

need some info. just changed the fuel pump on a 2.5 pump turns on ok when you go to start it and look at the injector while turning it over it pukes some gas out no spray then nothting not enough to start would that be a bad injector?

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

Hey guys I was checking the coolant level on the radiator and underneath the cap is a thick doo-doo brown liquid. Do you think my headgasket is blown?

mine was like that till i put the head gasket now it all good

[JML]

It doesn't smell like oil, and the truck doesn't run like complete crap, but it chugs at low rpms, and the SES light comes on while going down the highway for about 5 minutes. The brown stuff is just on the cap, , I don't see any in the radiator or in the overflow tank.

[ratrod dime]

junk yard parts are good. I usually look for one that the front of it was smashed usally an indication the truck was running and driving when crached. lol

[beaniebmx]

clean your rad cap, and then pull it off a day or two later and see if it has crap on it, if it does, then somewhere you have some gunk in the cooling system, it could be oil, it could be corrosion, could just be random gunk, hard to tell

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

It doesn't smell like oil, and the truck doesn't run like complete crap, but it chugs at low rpms, and the SES light comes on while going down the highway for about 5 minutes. The brown stuff is just on the cap, , I don't see any in the radiator or in the overflow tank.

is the water green from antifreeze? my oil didnt show water till the gasket went kaapooy bad, the doo doo just kept getting worse for several weeks, ses light has always come on on my fullsize? maybe a problem maybe not, did you check to see what code your getting?

[joecool14u2]

Quote: Originally Posted by joecool14u2

is the water green from antifreeze? my oil didnt show water till the gasket went kaapooy bad, the doo doo just kept getting worse for several weeks, ses light has always come on on my fullsize? maybe a problem maybe not, did you check to see what code your getting?

oh yeah, check and see iff you have yellowish liquid in the breather if all breather hoses are still on, the hose going to valve cover in back is where you might get this, and there could be a lot of it causing ses light and stuff

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by TNewby7801

need some info. just changed the fuel pump on a 2.5 pump turns on ok when you go to start it and look at the injector while turning it over it pukes some gas out no spray then nothting not enough to start would that be a bad injector?

yes dirty injector or bad fuel pressure regulator