test my knowledge-

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

Ok guys, I'm having clutch problems. It's really weird, I have like 2 to 3 inches of free play on the pedal and there's hardly any pressure on the pedal when i push it down. Also when the clutch is depressed all the way down and I'm letting it out to get in gear and go I hardly have to move the clutch and it starts grabbing? Theres like a half inch of where the clutch is engaged and disengaged. If I don't get it fixed at school I'll get a video of it so yall can see the problem.

Also check out this Lincoln Town Car lowrider lol, compressor is broke so the bags are completely empty.

damn that thing is draggin' lol- your master cylinder or slave cylinder is bad, or you dont have enough fluid in the the little resivior, beside the brake booster, or you have air in the lines somewhere

[beaniebmx]

id check either of those, my brothers car did that, youd push the clutch in and it would go straight to the floor, like it was spring loaded? and have 1/4 inch between it being disengaged and engaged, even with it pushed in the car would move when running and grind gears. we bled it and still nothing, it had some bleeder valve ontop of the transmissin, had no resevoir or anything, then it just started working normally again.


could be air, or low fluid, or the cylinders ^^ check the fluid level first

[JML]

Checked it a few days ago, completely dry lol, added some fresh dot 3 brake fluid and checked it next day and it was dirty as hell. I think there is air in the lines because of the low fluid level.

And that Lincoln was riding on tshe bumpstops, it could probably lay another two inches without them lol

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

Checked it a few days ago, completely dry lol, added some fresh dot 3 brake fluid and checked it next day and it was dirty as hell. I think there is air in the lines because of the low fluid level.

And that Lincoln was riding on tshe bumpstops, it could probably lay another two inches without them lol

i bet either your master or slave cylinder is bad, thats why u r losing fluid and drawing air into your lines

[Rizzle]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

well, they do, but the problem is that these engines have a water warmed/cooled intake, so after they warm up they have hot water flowing through the intakes on both the performance and stock because of emmission controls.you mak be able to block off the ports, but you risk over-heating or poor cooling on one side of the head, either busting the intake or busting the head like a watermelon. its just in the design of the way the water works, and im sure that it can be gotten around, with alot of mods, but you will still have hot spots in the head, much like using 400 heads on a chevy 350, you have to drill steam ports/holes in the heads.
they also have D shaped exhuast and air intake ports into the heads, and no room to port them. the heads are solid and stead. pontiac did make a z head for these engines used in the fieros, that flow alot better, and have round ports, but you have to use the stock intake with the heater lines in it because it flows through the engine into the intake and the to the radiator in that order, and omission of th heater lines in the intake will result in starving the upper engine of coolant.
as far as dependability, as long as they are not over revved to much in the past, they are ok. they have small and i mean really small crankshafts and wristpins. they are great engines though, alot better than the old 2.5s in the vegas and monzas, that have the stovetop engines. just make sure it dont knock or has low compression. even if they do, they are a really easy rebuild,basic engines, i have taught alot of people how to rebuild engines using these becaue the are soooo simple.

Blocking off the coolant passage to the intake should have no side affects on cooling or hot spots, it might actually help if you run a proper restrictor/thermostat, since it will slow coolant flowing away before it has a chance to absorb some of the heat from the cylinder head.

Only 91 up heads (A codes) have the d-shaped exhuast ports, the intakes are rectangular like almost every other engine out there (yeah they make ovals too but never d-shapes) and from the fiero heads i've seen the a-code is a lot better. blocking off the coolant lines running to and from the intake will not starve the top end of coolant, it flows out the front through the thermostat like its supposed to, so if you want to run a fiero head (you gotta change two head bolt holes, the pads already cast for both) run the matching intake for that head and you should be fine.

The newer cranks are stronger then the 85-86 ones, and i think it gets better the newer you get but i've seen some older looking ones in newer blocks so it might just be luck. we get 6400 out of ours for 15 laps every weekend during the summer and we have yet to spin a bearing even when theres no oil in it (ovalized a wrist pin hole which lead to the piston hitting the head but all bearings looked normal) and have yet to launch a rod, although i'm not looking forward to that.
Run light pistons and you save your crank, and probably your block too they aren't much stronger then the crank, but i have yet to break either.

[JML]

I need to fix this POS and sell it asap lol,

Let's see, injector seals, master or slave cylinder, handful of oil leaks...
About the only thing that aint leaking is the valve cover, I put a new gasket on and cover both sides with rtv lol that bitch better not leak.

[Rizzle]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

8*btdc is standard textbook. if you get better performance from a higher degree, you will be ok, as long as there is no backfires in the exhaust or intake.

Run 32 total, these heads burn pretty quick, and with a factory timing (computer) i've never gotten better results running more, and will just hurt performance. I run 12 but i have a modded hei to run less mech advance (if you can tune your comp to do so then more initial will help but untill then leave it) and run around 30-32 total. running up to 40 total doesn't cause any intake backfires so don't go by ear to figure this out, timing guns are ALWAYS the best way to check.

[83blazerlaynframe]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rizzle

Blocking off the coolant passage to the intake should have no side affects on cooling or hot spots, it might actually help if you run a proper restrictor/thermostat, since it will slow coolant flowing away before it has a chance to absorb some of the heat from the cylinder head.

Only 91 up heads (A codes) have the d-shaped exhuast ports, the intakes are rectangular like almost every other engine out there (yeah they make ovals too but never d-shapes) and from the fiero heads i've seen the a-code is a lot better. blocking off the coolant lines running to and from the intake will not starve the top end of coolant, it flows out the front through the thermostat like its supposed to, so if you want to run a fiero head (you gotta change two head bolt holes, the pads already cast for both) run the matching intake for that head and you should be fine.

The newer cranks are stronger then the 85-86 ones, and i think it gets better the newer you get but i've seen some older looking ones in newer blocks so it might just be luck. we get 6400 out of ours for 15 laps every weekend during the summer and we have yet to spin a bearing even when theres no oil in it (ovalized a wrist pin hole which lead to the piston hitting the head but all bearings looked normal) and have yet to launch a rod, although i'm not looking forward to that.
Run light pistons and you save your crank, and probably your block too they aren't much stronger then the crank, but i have yet to break either.

so question... im deleting my heater core and want to get rid of as many hoses as i can... can i put a plug in the side of my intake, back by the firewall? and cap the other lines off? if not what should i do to not create any overheating or other potential problems..?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rizzle

Blocking off the coolant passage to the intake should have no side affects on cooling or hot spots, it might actually help if you run a proper restrictor/thermostat, since it will slow coolant flowing away before it has a chance to absorb some of the heat from the cylinder head.

Only 91 up heads (A codes) have the d-shaped exhuast ports, the intakes are rectangular like almost every other engine out there (yeah they make ovals too but never d-shapes) and from the fiero heads i've seen the a-code is a lot better. blocking off the coolant lines running to and from the intake will not starve the top end of coolant, it flows out the front through the thermostat like its supposed to, so if you want to run a fiero head (you gotta change two head bolt holes, the pads already cast for both) run the matching intake for that head and you should be fine.

The newer cranks are stronger then the 85-86 ones, and i think it gets better the newer you get but i've seen some older looking ones in newer blocks so it might just be luck. we get 6400 out of ours for 15 laps every weekend during the summer and we have yet to spin a bearing even when theres no oil in it (ovalized a wrist pin hole which lead to the piston hitting the head but all bearings looked normal) and have yet to launch a rod, although i'm not looking forward to that.
Run light pistons and you save your crank, and probably your block too they aren't much stronger then the crank, but i have yet to break either.

well, in this case, its different experiences, because i tried blocking/ restricting the flow and within 30 minutes blew a head gasket. i believe with better gaskets and a better flowing cooling system, it would work, but for normal driving circumstances, its best to keep the water in the intake, my opinion

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by 83blazerlaynframe

so question... im deleting my heater core and want to get rid of as many hoses as i can... can i put a plug in the side of my intake, back by the firewall? and cap the other lines off? if not what should i do to not create any overheating or other potential problems..?

should not have any effect at all if you properly cap the lines off. it qill just be cold in the winter...

[83blazerlaynframe]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

should not have any effect at all if you properly cap the lines off. it qill just be cold in the winter...

lol my s10 is a permanent convertible, bagged and bodydropped lol.

im not too worried about the winter since it sits in the garage lol.

but that is def good news, so if i plug the line at the water pump, then the line on the intake, i should be good to go?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by 83blazerlaynframe

lol my s10 is a permanent convertible, bagged and bodydropped lol.

im not too worried about the winter since it sits in the garage lol.

but that is def good news, so if i plug the line at the water pump, then the line on the intake, i should be good to go?

yup, good to go

[83blazerlaynframe]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

yup, good to go

like a crunchwrap!

[JML]

I barely made it to school today, the clutch wouldn't disengage. At school we took off the master and slave cylinder and turns out there was a big flat spot on the piston seal in the slave cylinder. Just bought a new one, but my truck is stuck at school lol.

[kamesama980]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

well, in this case, its different experiences, because i tried blocking/ restricting the flow and within 30 minutes blew a head gasket. i believe with better gaskets and a better flowing cooling system, it would work, but for normal driving circumstances, its best to keep the water in the intake, my opinion

I had a thought about this just now. the computer for the 2.5 is incredibly simple and requires the thermostatic intake stuff to maintain a steady intake air charge that's pretty warm (130ish IIRC) plus the coolant heats the charge in the manifold so by the time it reaches the combustion chamber it'll be close to 190 (coolant temp) My thought was this: if you introduce a cold air charge, which is noticeably denser, the computer cannot correct for it. this will cause a lean condition (and I somewhat doubt the O2 sensor has a lot of input on the ECU) SOOOOO you were probably running fairly lean causing high combustion temperatures and the damage you described.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by kamesama980

I had a thought about this just now. the computer for the 2.5 is incredibly simple and requires the thermostatic intake stuff to maintain a steady intake air charge that's pretty warm (130ish IIRC) plus the coolant heats the charge in the manifold so by the time it reaches the combustion chamber it'll be close to 190 (coolant temp) My thought was this: if you introduce a cold air charge, which is noticeably denser, the computer cannot correct for it. this will cause a lean condition (and I somewhat doubt the O2 sensor has a lot of input on the ECU) SOOOOO you were probably running fairly lean causing high combustion temperatures and the damage you described.

with alot of mods u r right

[kamesama980]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

with alot of mods u r right

What do you mean 'a lot of mods'? that's just stock setup (thermostatic intake w/ coolant through manifold) as I've read in the manual and seen in the engine . all that heat vs blocking off the coolant flow to the manifold and maybe the thermostatic intake hose thingie.

in higher output engines, running lean can kill the engine in under a minute. the forum that gets my attention most is about the Cressidas, lots of people in there running very high output supra engines, including a few that have blown up or at least damaged them. even the stock engine is known the world over for blowing the head gasket. Just the head gaskets $80 minimum

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by kamesama980

What do you mean 'a lot of mods'? that's just stock setup (thermostatic intake w/ coolant through manifold) as I've read in the manual and seen in the engine . all that heat vs blocking off the coolant flow to the manifold and maybe the thermostatic intake hose thingie.

in higher output engines, running lean can kill the engine in under a minute. the forum that gets my attention most is about the Cressidas, lots of people in there running very high output supra engines, including a few that have blown up or at least damaged them. even the stock engine is known the world over for blowing the head gasket. Just the head gaskets $80 minimum

you are right in that sense, but you pretty much have to mod the fuel system according to what you run right? never attempted that before, but anything is possible

[beaniebmx]

so while trying to remove the fuel injector, it cracked on me, i removed the clip, and took the FPRegulator off to dink around with that too, injector started to come out and crack, both o rings are still good, the ones Napa gave me are way too small, the smallest one isnt even big enough to fit where the smallest one goes. so i put it back in, start it up, and notice its wet ontop, dry it off, wet, dry, wet, it keeps getting wet with fuel=leaking out the top where its cracked.

so i just bathed it in RTV sealant and im going to let it dry and check it, should i jbweld the crack instead? i dont wanna spend $100 on an injector... i cant even afford to put gas in!

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

so while trying to remove the fuel injector, it cracked on me, i removed the clip, and took the FPRegulator off to dink around with that too, injector started to come out and crack, both o rings are still good, the ones Napa gave me are way too small, the smallest one isnt even big enough to fit where the smallest one goes. so i put it back in, start it up, and notice its wet ontop, dry it off, wet, dry, wet, it keeps getting wet with fuel=leaking out the top where its cracked.

so i just bathed it in RTV sealant and im going to let it dry and check it, should i jbweld the crack instead? i dont wanna spend $100 on an injector... i cant even afford to put gas in!

well, if you pay for shipping, ill give you an injector.. a good after market one, which was ran for a little while until we decided to slam a 350 in it

[beaniebmx]

how much $$ for it? if its not too expensive ill buy it, i have paypal

i just read the package, says rtv is no good for a gasket if its immersed in gasoline.. took that all off, and just doused it all in JB weld. ill have fun getting the injector out

ill check it in a couple of days and see if its wet, if it is i might just have to go to the local pick n pull and "borrow" an injector

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

how much $$ for it? if its not too expensive ill buy it, i have paypal

i just read the package, says rtv is no good for a gasket if its immersed in gasoline.. took that all off, and just doused it all in JB weld. ill have fun getting the injector out

ill check it in a couple of days and see if its wet, if it is i might just have to go to the local pick n pull and "borrow" an injector

your not the only one who has done that before

[beaniebmx]

i just pushed it around the block as far as i could, and drove it from the garage in the alley to the street, coasted and shut it off halfway, hopefully that didnt **** up the still wet jb-weld.

would jb weld hold? i made sure i caked that shit on there as thick as a 300lb woman.

how much did you want for the injector? i really dont want to go to the junkyard and steal one, they looked at me weird last time i "borrowed" a part i couldnt afford but fit in my shoe, they check your bag/toolbox whatever u bring

also where are you located? i need a cat converter put on, shop will want atleast $150, and i need $35 in sensors, and i need gas in my tank im at like 1/2 tank and ive only gone like 85 miles= 170 miles to a 13 gallon tank? my mileage is so horrible i cant figure it out i rarely drive the damn thing around town and it uses up the same amount of gas as it did when i used to drive it around 24/7

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

i just pushed it around the block as far as i could, and drove it from the garage in the alley to the street, coasted and shut it off halfway, hopefully that didnt **** up the still wet jb-weld.

would jb weld hold? i made sure i caked that shit on there as thick as a 300lb woman.

how much did you want for the injector? i really dont want to go to the junkyard and steal one, they looked at me weird last time i "borrowed" a part i couldnt afford but fit in my shoe, they check your bag/toolbox whatever u bring

also where are you located? i need a cat converter put on, shop will want atleast $150, and i need $35 in sensors, and i need gas in my tank im at like 1/2 tank and ive only gone like 85 miles= 170 miles to a 13 gallon tank? my mileage is so horrible i cant figure it out i rarely drive the damn thing around town and it uses up the same amount of gas as it did when i used to drive it around 24/7

i live in georgia bro, if a half a tank will get u here, ill pay for the half a tank to get u back lol, gas mileage is still bad? have you thought about the pick-up and gas gauge lever in the tank? could it be bent, throwing you off? mine did that for a while, after i put a new fuel pump, i accidently bent mine and it would shoot to 1/4 very fast, in like 50 miles, then it would dump to empty and i still had a loooooong way to go, i was always terrified of running out
btw j b weld should hold, at least hold better than alabama chrome (duct tape)

[beaniebmx]

i live in nw iowa, so georgia would cost me about $9000 in gas at my mileage, 14mpg range, and cost me hotel room and work time, im only 19

my fuel dinger isnt bent, ive poked it with my finger a few times, but its always maxed out to the top part of the L on the dash when i top off the tank, and still maxes out when i top it off.

the way i know im geting like 14mpg, is cause i write down my mileage, then when i go to fill up, write down current mileage, then write down how many gallons till it shuts off, and then say i drove 140 miles and used 10 gallons, i got 14mpg

i had 99932 when i topped it off, right now i have 10019 and im at like 1/2 tank- 1/16th above that, somewhere aroudn there, it doesnt seem normal, last tank was 14mpg, last highway tank was 14.9, i got 28.29 highway in the summer

so right now ive gone about 87 miles on half tank= 6.5 gallons, thats around 13.5-15mpg range estimated....

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

i live in nw iowa, so georgia would cost me about $9000 in gas at my mileage, 14mpg range, and cost me hotel room and work time, im only 19

my fuel dinger isnt bent, ive poked it with my finger a few times, but its always maxed out to the top part of the L on the dash when i top off the tank, and still maxes out when i top it off.

the way i know im geting like 14mpg, is cause i write down my mileage, then when i go to fill up, write down current mileage, then write down how many gallons till it shuts off, and then say i drove 140 miles and used 10 gallons, i got 14mpg

i had 99932 when i topped it off, right now i have 10019 and im at like 1/2 tank- 1/16th above that, somewhere aroudn there, it doesnt seem normal, last tank was 14mpg, last highway tank was 14.9, i got 28.29 highway in the summer

so right now ive gone about 87 miles on half tank= 6.5 gallons, thats around 13.5-15mpg range estimated....

now i have had on exirience where i had a 69, had a 307 in it and ran like a top, then one day i was getting horrible gas milage. what happened was the the rear drum on the right side was slowly working in, due to a rusted slack adjuster, and when i tried to roll it, it would roll easy backwards, but hard forwards. i rebuilt the entire setup and i ended up with better gas mileage than before, so check out your rear brakes, they may stick a little, causing a fuss and bad gas mileage, and it was virtually impossible to tell on a 69, but you could easily find it

[beaniebmx]

i can check that, i know my front rotors are warped and drag in one spot, but its so minimul, with the front jacked up, you can hear it slighlty go krr krr krr, but the wheel doesnt slow down all that fast, so its not dragging majorly, and only in the one spot.

the rears, im not sure, the emergency brake was rusted and didnt even work, found that out when my truck started to roll down the incline backwards while in gear, it kept slipping, like it wanted to roll out of gear but didnt.

not sure if they are dragging majorly or none at all, im thinking the straight pipe exhaust is causing half of it. no cat at all, it sounds like popcorn in my exhaust.

and then theres my coolant temp sensor and gauge, the gauge doesnt even work at all, it stays at 100 even though my afermarket says 195F

the stock coolant temp sensor is plugged in and sitting on the head/valve cover, it made no diffrence when it was screwed into the water inlet.

do you think i need to buy a new coolant temp sensor and the head sensor for the gauge and plug the new one in, or keep the aftermarket one i have in? would it improve mileage any?

i know im gonna replace both of those and get a cat on, but if i dont need those ill just get the cat.

i do however know that my front brakes like to drag a little when im turning, when im backing into a parking spot turning more than halfway, it makes a krr krr krr dragging sound from my front brakes, not sure if its the brake line being pulled tight or something. i dont know how t