test my knowledge-

[chucked]

no, if you apply dielectric grease to all connections and mating surfaces, you should be alright, theres millions of engines out there everyday with no seal on the distributor.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by ExtCab96S_Dime

That's all you can do, honestly? Isn't there a seal or some shit that should keep the moisture out so you don't have to? If not, is there an aftermarket one that has a seal?

wd40, that will run the water out of the distibutor- garuntee that will work.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dex

I.D.Man: About base timing, what has been your experience with it? Is 8 BTDC just 'OK' or does the engine benefit from being set at 10 or 12??

8*btdc is standard textbook. if you get better performance from a higher degree, you will be ok, as long as there is no backfires in the exhaust or intake.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by Dex

I.D.Man: Also, I read somewhere that you can buy a harmonic balancer (originally for fieros) for the older 2.5's (mine's an 86), but I can't find that thread. Do you know the part number?

i dont know th part number, but you can cross reference them at autozone.com. they are both exactly the same, because the rods, crank and pistons are the same in weight and length

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

off of a gauge view, and mileage count, i seem to have gotten way better mileage than before, ive gone 50 miles and im still above 7/8ths tank, halfway between the full line and 7/8ths, last time i filled with city only driving, 56 miles got me to 3/4 tank, so with my estimation, im at 18-20mpg city range?

all i did was block off the pcv crankcase breather on the valve cover, put 1 cup of transmission fluid in my oil, and lightly sanded down my Hall Effect Switch, or whatever is under the cap, it had 3 t15 screws, and 2 holding some black peice ontop for the rotor, the 3 screw deal slid off an dhad a magnet on the bottom, it looked rusty, so i lgihtly sanded it and sprayed wd40 on and let it dry, still got popcorn sound from my exhaust, but so far so good, my check engine light came on yesterday, code 32=egr or 4wal but i dont have 4wal so its egr.

i paid $120 for the dealership to replace my egr and its related parts... so i reset the computer and it went away and hasnt been back, but now it idles high at startup for a second, not a big deal its normal?

ill check my mileage after i get to like 1/2 tank, especially at $3.17 a gallon! hopefully itll drop, it rose 20 cents

good to hear you gas mileage is better. every 2.5 i has seen idles high at a startup, i think thats normal. the popcorn sound is probably a leak in your exhaust somewere, because you descibed that it runs good, so i believe its a small hole somewere in the cats or manifold.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by ExtCab96S_Dime

This one shouldn't be too hard for you. A co-worker has a 90ish 2.5 5-speed. Last year he had the distributor replaced because it would crank hard when it got moist out. Now this year it started cranking hard again recently (it's been moist lately) and just today he was cranking it and it wouldn't start. Now it's doing nothing, probably killed his battery, but even if he charges it, I doubt it'll start. Any clue?

damp distibutor, stopped up fuel filter, weak fuel pump, dead fuel pump, coil could be bad, bet that it is. pull the coil wire off the distributor (center wire) and place a screw driver in one end and hold it close to the intake manifold while someone cranks and and watch for a spark, if no spark, bad coil. listen for the fuel pump to come on when you turn the switch on, it should run constant for about 2 seconds with the switch in the run position and engine not running. lemme know the results so i can further help

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by kamesama980

condensation in the cap. Mine's doing the same thing right now. Continued cranking will just (as you found out) kill the battery. new cap frequently or dry it out before you start it whenever its moist

thats the hard way, just spay some wd40 inside the cap, it will not catch fire, so do not dry it, leave it moist with the oil, it will never get wet and will not affect the spark, i garuntee that

[kamesama980]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

thats the hard way, just spay some wd40 inside the cap, it will not catch fire, so do not dry it, leave it moist with the oil, it will never get wet and will not affect the spark, i garuntee that

I'll try that.

Hey BTW, with disconnecting the PCV hoses, theres 2. your suggestion is to disconnect the one that goes to the air cleaner, where does the other lead to? manifold after the butterfly?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by kamesama980

I'll try that.

Hey BTW, with disconnecting the PCV hoses, theres 2. your suggestion is to disconnect the one that goes to the air cleaner, where does the other lead to? manifold after the butterfly?

the small diameter metal line runs to the tbi below the butterfly, dont block that one, the large diameter that goes to the breather is the one i block.

[gnar kill]

few questions- i've got a 89 2.5 with 5 speed has been sitting but fired
every few months until the battery died like 4 or 5 months ago

theres old fuel in it, i know it doesn't matter how much it has cause its stil in there but theres like 1/16 of a tank in there

needs a tranny anyways so i don't want to dump money into getting it going
cause i can get a 4.3 auto tran and shaft put in and running for a day and under 350

i really love the little 2.5s mine has 354 027k just over 120k on the
rebuild

leaky gasket some where and some one didnt weld shut their custom manifold into header so now theres a 1/2 gap around 3 quarters of each tube on the manifold
(luckily it was only driven for two months after the header was put in)

[chucked]

Quote: Originally Posted by gnar kill

few questions- i've got a 89 2.5 with 5 speed has been sitting but fired
every few months until the battery died like 4 or 5 months ago

theres old fuel in it, i know it doesn't matter how much it has cause its stil in there but theres like 1/16 of a tank in there

needs a tranny anyways so i don't want to dump money into getting it going
cause i can get a 4.3 auto tran and shaft put in and running for a day and under 350

i really love the little 2.5s mine has 354 027k just over 120k on the
rebuild

leaky gasket some where and some one didnt weld shut their custom manifold into header so now theres a 1/2 gap around 3 quarters of each tube on the manifold
(luckily it was only driven for two months after the header was put in)

what are the questions?

[gnar kill]

lol good to run the gas if the lines and shit are gummed little bit of additives
and run the gas, siphon , i think it needs fuel filter but how do i go about cleaning the lines injectors or w/e you think it should be good..?

[beaniebmx]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

good to hear you gas mileage is better. every 2.5 i has seen idles high at a startup, i think thats normal. the popcorn sound is probably a leak in your exhaust somewere, because you descibed that it runs good, so i believe its a small hole somewere in the cats or manifold.

there is no cat converter on it, its got a brand new manifold, it did it with the old manifold, which the front tube was broken off.

its got a straight pipe from the manifold to the muffler, then has a turndown right after the muffler, it was all welded up, but i had to cut it off and make it a turndown before axle so the mmuffler is bolted onto the straight pipe. havnt seen any areas of leaks where its bolted.

so far, im at 60 miles and i have 7/8ths of a tank left, before i blocked the breather and put fuel injector cleaner in, i got 56 miles till i was at 3/4 tank, so it seems like im at atleast 16-20mpg

[2.5FearFactory]

good thread, irondukeman...I'm on my second Iron Duke (and my buddies and I rebuilt this one from the oil pan up), but it's been pretty much sitting for 2 yrs, so by the time I get it on the road I'm sure I"ll be using this thread a lot

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by gnar kill

few questions- i've got a 89 2.5 with 5 speed has been sitting but fired
every few months until the battery died like 4 or 5 months ago

theres old fuel in it, i know it doesn't matter how much it has cause its stil in there but theres like 1/16 of a tank in there

needs a tranny anyways so i don't want to dump money into getting it going
cause i can get a 4.3 auto tran and shaft put in and running for a day and under 350

i really love the little 2.5s mine has 354 027k just over 120k on the
rebuild

leaky gasket some where and some one didnt weld shut their custom manifold into header so now theres a 1/2 gap around 3 quarters of each tube on the manifold
(luckily it was only driven for two months after the header was put in)

gas after it sets for a while turns into turpintine... bad stuff, eats up any plastic or rubber, especiallt the fuel pump lines and seals. get it out of the lines and tbi fast, or throw some high octane fuel in it and burn it out

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by gnar kill

lol good to run the gas if the lines and shit are gummed little bit of additives
and run the gas, siphon , i think it needs fuel filter but how do i go about cleaning the lines injectors or w/e you think it should be good..?

remove the fuel line input line at the tbi and the lines from the tank, and run some mean green or any strong degreaser, i personally would use that stuff called "goof off" or some kind of paint thinner to really get a good cleaning and remove the build-up. it is fine to run the gas, as long as ther is not a lot of trash or it will clog the injector or the fuel pressure regulator, or a line.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by 2.5FearFactory

good thread, irondukeman...I'm on my second Iron Duke (and my buddies and I rebuilt this one from the oil pan up), but it's been pretty much sitting for 2 yrs, so by the time I get it on the road I'm sure I"ll be using this thread a lot

thanks, im here to help!

[2.5FearFactory]

and it's much appreciated!

Just reading the thing about leaving the gas in there for too long...my truck has been parked for just about 2 yrs though it does get fired up occassionally...I started it about a week ago and it ran like a champ. Does that mean that (so far) I'm good to go? If yes, then I'll just send my buddy some money so he can keep burning all the gas in the tank and just put a few gallons in at a time.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by 2.5FearFactory

and it's much appreciated!

Just reading the thing about leaving the gas in there for too long...my truck has been parked for just about 2 yrs though it does get fired up occassionally...I started it about a week ago and it ran like a champ. Does that mean that (so far) I'm good to go? If yes, then I'll just send my buddy some money so he can keep burning all the gas in the tank and just put a few gallons in at a time.

as long as you run it a little every now and then its fine, because you are churning the gas and running all the build-up out of the lines and filters

[2.5FearFactory]

beauty...thanks man...I'll just get my buddy to run it every now and again...I once had it standing for 9 months and it was totally fine ...fingers crossed!!!

[irondukeman]

anybody interested in a very detailed how to in replacing your valve stem seals? i just did a little 2.5 and i have a bunch if pics... its a good solution in stopping your engine from burning oil or puffing blue smoke on a start-up. takes about an hour and cost me less that 11 bucks

[kamesama980]

I did a write up on my old Cressida (DOHC I6) for that forum but I'd be interested in seeing it with this antique. I imagine it's a helluva lot easier.

[beaniebmx]

i make gaskets for a living, so if anyone needs some valve stem seals, i can sell you a full set un used in brand new shape i made

i also have a k-cork valve cover gasket and a lifter cover gasket if anyone wants those too

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

i make gaskets for a living, so if anyone needs some valve stem seals, i can sell you a full set un used in brand new shape i made

i also have a k-cork valve cover gasket and a lifter cover gasket if anyone wants those too

hook me up on some 5.7l gaskets, ill pay all the overhead- and ill be you 2.5 part hookup, i have access to cheappppp parts that you cant fond anywhere else, look at the pic i posted in the topic, look at this!- i have that same engine with the electronic ignition coils instead of distibutor and a side mount blower- its not a running engine, but with a good donor and a fresh rebuild, it could do some damage.

[beaniebmx]

ill need specifics

5.7l 350v8, year? what gaskets? what type? k-cork, n-8094 with silicone bead intakes?, steelback exhaust manifolds? neoprene rubber valve covers?

let me know what you want, we just got 8 semi trailers full of gaskets for kits, so more than likely we have what you need, but i dont think hell let me just walk out with 5000 mrgasket 5822 intakes at 88 cent unit price

let me know exactly what you want, i can ask whenever hes in, and find out what the price would be

if your wanting like 100 head gaskets, it would be something youd more than likely have to order in from us, something like water inlet wed probably have for kits. seen some 4.3l and 5.7l on the kit strip list

[ratrod dime]

I have one for you.

I have a 1986 2.5 w/ auto. 2wd ext. cab. well its got a new fuel pump, injector, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, all new filters. the tank has been dipped to clean it. and it starts hard, like a dragster when it first starts to idel. then when it smooths out it hickup once and awhile, butthe worst is when I am driving it, and I slow down to stop a a light. it stalls out on me?
I need help badly.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by ratrod dime

I have one for you.

I have a 1986 2.5 w/ auto. 2wd ext. cab. well its got a new fuel pump, injector, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, all new filters. the tank has been dipped to clean it. and it starts hard, like a dragster when it first starts to idel. then when it smooths out it hickup once and awhile, butthe worst is when I am driving it, and I slow down to stop a a light. it stalls out on me?
I need help badly.

you need a new map sensor or check the vacuum line going to it. its the rectangle piece mounted to your breather, autozone checks them for free

[JML]

My truck would make the popcorn sound every time i let off the gas, it had a big hole in the pipe before the muffler, but the cat was still ok. I ran straight pipe for a while after the cat and the popping stopped? Then i got an exhaust done and it sounds normal.

[kamesama980]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

My truck would make the popcorn sound every time i let off the gas, it had a big hole in the pipe before the muffler, but the cat was still ok. I ran straight pipe for a while after the cat and the popping stopped? Then i got an exhaust done and it sounds normal.

just some backfiring. underrestricted exhaust allowed everything to get out fast enough to not burn all the fuel. all the cars I've worked on do it if you cut the exhaust off before the header. all old cars. rev it up then let of and it burbles cheerfully to itself.

[ratrod dime]

ok i had the map sensor tested at autozone, and it tested good. we checked all vacuum lines and they were all good. so I still could use some other ideas.

thank you guys.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by ratrod dime

ok i had the map sensor tested at autozone, and it tested good. we checked all vacuum lines and they were all good. so I still could use some other ideas.

thank you guys.

egr valve could be bad, replace it, it has an effect on your idle, check your timing, it could have jumped a little, replace your plugs and wires, rotor button and cap

[83blazerlaynframe]

so about the trans fluid in the oil thing... i have a 90 2.5 it only has 34k on it, its been garaged its entire life only for the fact that the truck is a convertible lol. so do you add the trans fluid to the already full oil?

and what is something i can maybe do to keep this thing in good shape for a long time? it runs awesome and i coudlent be happier. it has a 5 speed behind it and gets great mileage on the freeway.

only one problem, the valve cover gasket leaks and there is alot of sludge and oil on the back of the motor, is there a nice gasket i can get that will stop doing that?? i dont want to get a junk cork one if its going to do the same thing again..

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by 83blazerlaynframe

so about the trans fluid in the oil thing... i have a 90 2.5 it only has 34k on it, its been garaged its entire life only for the fact that the truck is a convertible lol. so do you add the trans fluid to the already full oil?

and what is something i can maybe do to keep this thing in good shape for a long time? it runs awesome and i coudlent be happier. it has a 5 speed behind it and gets great mileage on the freeway.

only one problem, the valve cover gasket leaks and there is alot of sludge and oil on the back of the motor, is there a nice gasket i can get that will stop doing that?? i dont want to get a junk cork one if its going to do the same thing again..

put it in full or close to it, it will wear in eventually..
good thing about these engines, you dont have to do alot to keep them healthy, just make sure it has good gas and clean oil... you can get a aftermarket valve cover gasket, just clean the top rim very good on the block and cover, and use a good atv sealant

[beaniebmx]

i recommend a neoprene rubber valve cover gasket, it costs more than cork, but it seals better and holds torque better, and its reuseable. i have no problems with the one i made at work.

you could always just remove the cork one, and put a good thick bead of gasket maker sealant on there, but make sure you enclose the bolt holes, like a D shape, if you dont fully enclose the bolt holes, oil will come up through there and get all over the bolt and leak out of the bolt.

torque it to 4ft lbs or 48 inch lbs whatever your torque wrench reads.

for added safety you can always put extra on the lip on the back.

and irondukeman, we are so swamped that i dont have time to check to see what kits we have for 5.7l size, we have 300,000 kits to assemble= about 2 million gaskets, 3 of us to do that.. unless we get in an order then theres 0-1 of us, but if you give me the list of what you want i can keep an eye out

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by beaniebmx

i recommend a neoprene rubber valve cover gasket, it costs more than cork, but it seals better and holds torque better, and its reuseable. i have no problems with the one i made at work.

you could always just remove the cork one, and put a good thick bead of gasket maker sealant on there, but make sure you enclose the bolt holes, like a D shape, if you dont fully enclose the bolt holes, oil will come up through there and get all over the bolt and leak out of the bolt.

torque it to 4ft lbs or 48 inch lbs whatever your torque wrench reads.

for added safety you can always put extra on the lip on the back.

and irondukeman, we are so swamped that i dont have time to check to see what kits we have for 5.7l size, we have 300,000 kits to assemble= about 2 million gaskets, 3 of us to do that.. unless we get in an order then theres 0-1 of us, but if you give me the list of what you want i can keep an eye out

i am in no hurry at all man, i havnt even gotten around to looking for what i need, but take your time and i will take mine, and when things slow down a little for you, then we will talk

[beaniebmx]

i dont handle the inventory, i just make the gaskets, so i dont know what we have for kits or stand alone parts, all of the kits and parts are in shipping department. so asking me if we have any 85514 exhaust flanges wouldnt be of much effect.

but if you find out what you need then i can ask. ill need to know if you just need head gasket and valve covers, or everything to rebuild, and how many you need, 100 kits? just 100 head gaskets? 25,000 intake gaskets?

certain engines we have alot of for, so im sure we have enough for your needs on a 350 v8 chevy.

if your wanting something like 10 kits or 20 head gaskets, itd be something youd have to call my boss/owner and place an order with him and tell him i sent you blah blah. something like 1 kit or a few certain parts i could proably buy from inventory myself.

[JML]

Hey beanie, have you remove or disconnected your battery? If you did you might need to do a computer relearn.

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/OWNER%7E1.YOU/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/OWNER%7E1.YOU/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

Hey beanie, have you remove or disconnected your battery? If you did you might need to do a computer relearn.

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/OWNER%7E1.YOU/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/OWNER%7E1.YOU/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]

but that is mostly for obd2 systems, the regular obd on s10s arent smart enough to learn, they are more binary, ya know, on/off systems witth very few parameter settings, it has pretty much a diagnostic to aid in code throwing, but its on recognizes voltage ranges from various sensors. when the voltage is to high or to low, it send a check engine light. like i said, very low parameters for adjustment, and if any computer problems arise, it is typically easier to replace the computer in the truck than to diagnose it and fix it yourself
shopkey is a good program, but it gives a generalized answer to most cars, for example: 89 s10 relearn procedures are the same for a 2008 dodge caravan, but what is the difference between the two, the obd setup, right?

[JML]

Thats true, I didn't think of that before

[JML]

Thats true, I didn't think of that before

Also, does anyone else's oil always smell like gasoline?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

Thats true, I didn't think of that before

Also, does anyone else's oil always smell like gasoline?

your injector seals are probably bad, dripping gas through the intake when the engine is off, releasing fuel pressure and running it down the cylinder walls, into the oil, lemme guess that your engine also has to turn over for a little while before it cranks?

[kamesama980]

yea, the old S10s can't even adjust mixture based on intake temperature. it relies on the valve and duct that sucks air from the exhaust manifold to regulate intake temperature to keep the mixture even.

[JML]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

your injector seals are probably bad, dripping gas through the intake when the engine is off, releasing fuel pressure and running it down the cylinder walls, into the oil, lemme guess that your engine also has to turn over for a little while before it cranks?

Yea it takes like two or more seconds to turn over lol, longer in the cold. But I dont worry too much about it because im getting between 25 and 28 mpg right now. , also changed the oil yesterday.

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by JML

Yea it takes like two or more seconds to turn over lol, longer in the cold. But I dont worry too much about it because im getting between 25 and 28 mpg right now. , also changed the oil yesterday.

oil in the gas is bad ya know lol, could catch fire, and it eventualy will ruin your seals, dry them out if it sets a while, injector seals are pretty cheap (around 10c) theres two, and are pretty simple to replace

[83blazerlaynframe]

Quote: Originally Posted by irondukeman

oil in the gas is bad ya know lol, could catch fire, and it eventualy will ruin your seals, dry them out if it sets a while, injector seals are pretty cheap (around 10c) theres two, and are pretty simple to replace

yea now come to think of it.. my motor does this too.. it does it real bad when its hot. sometimes it will fire right up, sometimes it will turn over for like 5-10 seconds before it fires up... sometimes its embarrassing lol.

you think that my injector seals are bad? the motor is out of the truck and in my garage right now while my truck is apart, im trying to replace anything i can to 1) clean it up and make it pretty and 2) make sure everything is in the best working order possible..

i thought that because the motor was warmed up, that the compression got lower and made it not want to start up as fast.... but it does do it sometimes when its cold too... it varys.

what do you think?

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by 83blazerlaynframe

yea now come to think of it.. my motor does this too.. it does it real bad when its hot. sometimes it will fire right up, sometimes it will turn over for like 5-10 seconds before it fires up... sometimes its embarrassing lol.

you think that my injector seals are bad? the motor is out of the truck and in my garage right now while my truck is apart, im trying to replace anything i can to 1) clean it up and make it pretty and 2) make sure everything is in the best working order possible..

i thought that because the motor was warmed up, that the compression got lower and made it not want to start up as fast.... but it does do it sometimes when its cold too... it varys.

what do you think?

it is very possible, since u have it tore dowm, now would be a good time to change it anyway

[83blazerlaynframe]

is this what i need ????

http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=752&PTSet=A

my truck is a 90 vin code e. 2.5l

or do you think this is something that i should change while the motor is out anyhow?

i thought that the 2.5 is like a tbi or something, it has only one injector on the top of the intake on the side of the motor... maybe im wrong?

and mind you, it does this with only 34k on the odometer

[irondukeman]

Quote: Originally Posted by 83blazerlaynframe

is this what i need ????

http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=752&PTSet=A

my truck is a 90 vin code e. 2.5l

or do you think this is something that i should change while the motor is out anyhow?

i thought that the 2.5 is like a tbi or something, it has only one injector on the top of the intake on the side of the motor... maybe im wrong?

and mind you, it does this with only 34k on the odometer

yup, one big injector, two seals, little one close to the nozzle, big one up top, you can change it with the motor in, just pull the injector

[beaniebmx]

is there a certain way to pull the injector, or is it just a grab and yank method? dont want to end up with the prototyped injector that has to have its 900 peices glued back together im going to see if the parts store has any when i get my coolant temp sensor and gauge sensor next week, we dont have any at work that i know of, i did however seen 3 2.5l exhaust flange gaskets, steelback, not sure which year, i got one for a 1991 2.5l manifold, but the bolt holes dont line up with mine so its just sitting along side 2 egr gaskets, valve cover gasket, lifter cover gasket, valve seals and a used air cleaner gasket

[JML]

Ok guys, I'm having clutch problems. It's really weird, I have like 2 to 3 inches of free play on the pedal and there's hardly any pressure on the pedal when i push it down. Also when the clutch is depressed all the way down and I'm letting it out to get in gear and go I hardly have to move the clutch and it starts grabbing? Theres like a half inch of where the clutch is engaged and disengaged. If I don't get it fixed at school I'll get a video of it so yall can see the problem.

Also check out this Lincoln Town Car lowrider lol, compressor is broke so the bags are completely empty.