missing

gregsz-28 · 10-27-2009, 09:50 PM

Alright thanks. Yeah I forgot to check that. I'll go look at it real quick.

gregsz-28 · 10-27-2009, 10:14 PM

I just pulled out the PROM then put it right back in and then started the truck up, (it was still warm) and it didn't seem to make any difference.

The ECM said remanufactured by GM on it...

gregsz-28 · 10-31-2009, 04:43 AM

New problem-
Yesterday I my truck started being difficult to start. By that, I mean that I now have to crank it over for a while for it to start.
What could cause this? Leaky injector? Dying fuel pump?
I don't think I have any kind of fuel leak, as I have never noticed smelling gasoline when I am around my truck.

gregsz-28 · 11-01-2009, 06:25 PM

This morning I changed the fuel filter, and I'll post up later tonight whether or not it helps my hard to start problem.

BuckyBoy02 · 11-02-2009, 10:37 AM

I have the exact same problem as gregz-28 post on 10-31. Yesterday, I took the injector out and switched on the fuel pump. Immediately lots of fuel gushed into the throat of the TBI. So it's getting plenty of gas to the injector. If I give it some ether, it will usually start, but I have to keep the throttle fairly wide open to run. It also will run fine once it "gets going". When I look inside the TBI when it is running, usually someone else has to press on the gas pedal to keep it running, I see gas dropping from injector, and swirling on the walls on the TBI. It appears its flooding out when trying to start, hence the hard starting, due to a bad injector not providing a misty fan spray to the TBI. It would also explain why going down the road there's no problem, because it can burn the excess fuel being delivered to it. Does this seem to make sense? With the injector installed, and by turning on the fuel pump, but not starting the engine, should you be able to see a fine misty spray inside the TBI coming from the injector?

Shaddix · 11-02-2009, 11:59 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by BuckyBoy02

I have the exact same problem as gregz-28 post on 10-31. Yesterday, I took the injector out and switched on the fuel pump. Immediately lots of fuel gushed into the throat of the TBI. So it's getting plenty of gas to the injector. If I give it some ether, it will usually start, but I have to keep the throttle fairly wide open to run. It also will run fine once it "gets going". When I look inside the TBI when it is running, usually someone else has to press on the gas pedal to keep it running, I see gas dropping from injector, and swirling on the walls on the TBI. It appears its flooding out when trying to start, hence the hard starting, due to a bad injector not providing a misty fan spray to the TBI. It would also explain why going down the road there's no problem, because it can burn the excess fuel being delivered to it. Does this seem to make sense? With the injector installed, and by turning on the fuel pump, but not starting the engine, should you be able to see a fine misty spray inside the TBI coming from the injector?

Just as a FYI, my 4.3L truck is doing the same thing right now. Weak fuel spray and by pressing the gas its opening it up more so it will fire and start. I think a few of us are gonna be buying fuel pumps soon.

gregsz-28 · 11-02-2009, 02:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

... I think a few of us are gonna be buying fuel pumps soon.

Maybe someone will give us a group discount

Changing my fuel filter didn't help, but it was the cheapest possible solution, so it was worth trying.
Over 488 miles I drove in about 2 weeks, I got 23.6 mpg. Is this good, bad, or normal?

BuckyBoy02 · 11-02-2009, 08:46 PM

Hey, I got my ole boy going! I feel embarrassed, but all it was, was the PLUGS! New plugs in, and he started right up. Stumbled a little, but as engine warmed up smoothed out. Drove him down the road, lots of power. I think now I'll do the rest of the tune-up. DUH. Sometimes we overlook the obvious, at least I do.

lesterl · 11-03-2009, 10:44 PM

An EP386 (AC Delco) pump on www.amazon.com $47 free shipping, if you apply for the Amazon card IIRC they give you a discount from there...

gregsz-28 · 11-04-2009, 02:50 AM

I do hope I don't need a new fuel pump. I haven't looked into my new problem again yet.
My EGR valve didn't show up today, (**** fedex) but now they say it will tomorrow.

How should I hook up a fuel pressure gauge, and how much pressure should I have?

lesterl · 11-04-2009, 11:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28

I do hope I don't need a new fuel pump. I haven't looked into my new problem again yet.
My EGR valve didn't show up today, (**** fedex) but now they say it will tomorrow.

How should I hook up a fuel pressure gauge, and how much pressure should I have?

12+ PSI

You will have to unhook the filter and hook up there or at TBI.

gregsz-28 · 11-05-2009, 01:50 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lesterl

12+ PSI

You will have to unhook the filter and hook up there or at TBI.

I'll try hooking one up at the throttle body, I discovered the other day that it's a PITA to access the fuel filter.

Today I received and replaced my EGR valve, and it still runs the same, (

) but it still hasn't given me any codes.

When I took the air cleaner off I noticed that it looked like smoke was coming out of the throttle body. Could that be a sign of the injector leaking? Or could it possibly be exhaust gas?

My truck always has shut off a little rough, but I'm not sure if that is relevant.

Another new problem: This started the other day. My blower motor usually doesn't work, but it will come on partly sometimes. I replaced the switch, and that didn't fix the problem, so I tested the voltage at the motor, and it was receiving 12 volts in every speed, except for off. It seems like it should be receiving less than 12 volts at lower speeds? And if the blower motor was the problem, wouldn't it not work all the time?

lesterl · 11-05-2009, 10:21 PM

Sounds like the blower motor is open, hence reading 12v. If you are curious, hook a headlight across the +/- on the blower contacts and try the settings, intensity should change.

Smoke is a byproduct of combustion, could be possibly normal, IDK I am not there.

Hows the timing sitting? Fuel pressure yet?

bansheeair · 11-05-2009, 11:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

I think a few of us are gonna be buying fuel pumps soon.

I know I will be. I have been having the starting problem for a couple months now. I figured it was the fuel pump as I have tried and tested everything else...I am hoping it fixes itself as I don't want to drop the tank.

Shaddix · 11-06-2009, 01:28 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by bansheeair

I know I will be. I have been having the starting problem for a couple months now. I figured it was the fuel pump as I have tried and tested everything else...I am hoping it fixes itself as I don't want to drop the tank.

Damn man, you have owned your same S-10 for 20 YEARS? Thats insane! Id love to have driven my truck when it was BRAND NEW, I bet it felt so nice to drive and close the door and not worry about the latch and hinges breaking off =)

gregsz-28 · 11-06-2009, 03:25 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by lesterl

Sounds like the blower motor is open, hence reading 12v. If you are curious, hook a headlight across the +/- on the blower contacts and try the settings, intensity should change.

Smoke is a byproduct of combustion, could be possibly normal, IDK I am not there.

Hows the timing sitting? Fuel pressure yet?

I'll try to remember to try the headlight thing tomorrow. I didn't check the fuel pressure or timing yet. What is the timing supposed to be set to? There's probably a sticker under my hood that says...

bansheeair · 11-06-2009, 11:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

Damn man, you have owned your same S-10 for 20 YEARS? Thats insane! Id love to have driven my truck when it was BRAND NEW, I bet it felt so nice to drive and close the door and not worry about the latch and hinges breaking off =)

LOL. It's pretty hard to remember driving it without some sort of problem. I do remember that at 225000km wondering if the duke would ever pack it in so I could drop an small block in. It never gives me a $1000 bill to warrant a replacement motor but it does nickel and dime me.

It now has 370000km and I put them all on. LOL.

I had this same truck and motor in the hayday of mini trucks. Used to travel up and down the coast with a club called Low Altitude Minis and showed at NorthWest Mini Truck Council shows. Oh the memories.

gregsz-28 · 11-06-2009, 06:13 PM

Just now on my way home it gave me code 32 again.
Is it possible that my original problem and my hard to start problem are related, both being caused by a bad injector? Maybe I'll have time to test the fuel pressure tomorrow.

Shaddix · 11-06-2009, 10:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28

Just now on my way home it gave me code 32 again.
Is it possible that my original problem and my hard to start problem are related, both being caused by a bad injector? Maybe I'll have time to test the fuel pressure tomorrow.

Did you buy a brand new AC Delco EGR valve for the right transmission?

Is the truck still missing or whats it doing?

Just hard to start might be a bad fuel pump relay Ive heard, as it will take a while before the oil pump builds up the 4psi it takes to turn on the fuel pump without the relay through the oil pressure switch.

EGR needs to have the solenoid connected with the right valve installed. Is your code 32 consistant or does it come and go?

gregsz-28 · 11-07-2009, 04:00 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

Did you buy a brand new AC Delco EGR valve for the right transmission?

Yes... maybe I'll double check the part# anyways...

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

Is the truck still missing...

Yes

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

Just hard to start might be a bad fuel pump relay Ive heard, as it will take a while before the oil pump builds up the 4psi it takes to turn on the fuel pump without the relay through the oil pressure switch.

I'll look into that. Do you know where the fuel pump relay is located?

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

EGR needs to have the solenoid connected with the right valve installed. Is your code 32 consistant or does it come and go?

The solenoid is connected.
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. I'll try to describe what happens exactly. After I first reset the code after I got it the first time, it took a lot of driving before it happened again. After the SES light comes on, it soon goes off, but the code is stored. Even though the code is stored the light won't come on while I'm driving after it happens once.

Shaddix · 11-07-2009, 02:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28

Yes... maybe I'll double check the part# anyways...

Yes

I'll look into that. Do you know where the fuel pump relay is located?

The solenoid is connected.
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. I'll try to describe what happens exactly. After I first reset the code after I got it the first time, it took a lot of driving before it happened again. After the SES light comes on, it soon goes off, but the code is stored. Even though the code is stored the light won't come on while I'm driving after it happens once.

I was asking about the code coming and going, because on a few trucks, the code 32 will come on and go away while your driving it. It just stores the code and doesnt affect the way it runs. Highways it will try to test it, and when the EGR system fails to work properly, it will throw the code like yours.

Some people talk about the code coming on and staying on making the truck run in OPEN LOOP therefore never running very good at all!

I am just puzzled by your EGR solenoid operation. You said that you get FULL manifold vacuum through the EGR solenoid when the connector is plugged in and working even at idle. When the EGR solenoid is unplugged from the computer, it stops all EGR flow, because an idling motor should NOT have any EGR flow at all.

HOW ON EARTH IS THAT POSSIBLE? WHY IS THIS EGR VALVE OPENING AT IDLE? What the hell is the EGR solenoids job if it is open at all times including cold idle?

If the EGR valve is opening all the time, at idle, crusing, anytime the throttle plate is open, this is NOT THE WAY EGR's are supposed to work at all. It should only open on a part throttle cruise I thought???

gregsz-28 · 11-07-2009, 03:40 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

I was asking about the code coming and going, because on a few trucks, the code 32 will come on and go away while your driving it. It just stores the code and doesnt affect the way it runs. Highways it will try to test it, and when the EGR system fails to work properly, it will throw the code like yours.

Sounds like what happened to me.

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

Some people talk about the code coming on and staying on making the truck run in OPEN LOOP therefore never running very good at all!

Yeah, I don't think that happened. Maybe it did the first time, and that is why the truck felt like it had no power while the light was on.

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

I am just puzzled by your EGR solenoid operation. You said that you get FULL manifold vacuum through the EGR solenoid when the connector is plugged in and working even at idle. When the EGR solenoid is unplugged from the computer, it stops all EGR flow, because an idling motor should NOT have any EGR flow at all.

I must have said the wrong thing earlier. The solenoid recieved no power to it when I started the truck cold, for the first ten minutes it ran. My solenoid is hooked up to ported manifold vacuum, and it lets all the vacuum through it that it receives, but since it is hooked up to ported vacuum, there is no vacuum to it at idle, but it gets full vacuum once I open the throttle blade.

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

HOW ON EARTH IS THAT POSSIBLE? WHY IS THIS EGR VALVE OPENING AT IDLE? What the hell is the EGR solenoids job if it is open at all times including cold idle?

...

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

If the EGR valve is opening all the time, at idle, crusing, anytime the throttle plate is open, this is NOT THE WAY EGR's are supposed to work at all. It should only open on a part throttle cruise I thought???

From what I can tell, the EGR valve receives no vacuum only during the first 10 minutes the truck is running and at idle.

Shaddix · 11-08-2009, 03:33 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28

Sounds like what happened to me.

Yeah, I don't think that happened. Maybe it did the first time, and that is why the truck felt like it had no power while the light was on.

I must have said the wrong thing earlier. The solenoid recieved no power to it when I started the truck cold, for the first ten minutes it ran. My solenoid is hooked up to ported manifold vacuum, and it lets all the vacuum through it that it receives, but since it is hooked up to ported vacuum, there is no vacuum to it at idle, but it gets full vacuum once I open the throttle blade.

...

From what I can tell, the EGR valve receives no vacuum only during the first 10 minutes the truck is running and at idle.

Hmmm OK then, well if you have a fully working EGR system, with an AC Delco valve and solenoid it should be working as intended!

The only things coming to mind is an older, slow reading O2 sensor that maybe is detecting changes slowly and when it tests and shows the reading is slow to the ecm, maybe thats is its part of the check????

The code is coming on when your ecm is checking the egr solenoid at part-throttle cruise at 40+MPH right? Not at idle...

I have the exact same problem as you man. To the tee in my truck. I need to buy an EGR valve for mine but you have just spent $80 on one and it isnt fixing the problem. Thats why I really am interested and concerned here as I dont want to buy a damn valve and not have it work!!!

gregsz-28 · 11-08-2009, 10:44 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

Hmmm OK then, well if you have a fully working EGR system, with an AC Delco valve and solenoid it should be working as intended!

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

The only things coming to mind is an older, slow reading O2 sensor that maybe is detecting changes slowly and when it tests and shows the reading is slow to the ecm, maybe thats is its part of the check????

I already replaced the 02 sensor, didn't help at all.

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

The code is coming on when your ecm is checking the egr solenoid at part-throttle cruise at 40+MPH right? Not at idle...

Correct

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

I have the exact same problem as you man. To the tee in my truck. I need to buy an EGR valve for mine but you have just spent $80 on one and it isnt fixing the problem. Thats why I really am interested and concerned here as I dont want to buy a damn valve and not have it work!!!

I haven't done anything with my truck the last few days except drive it, so I'm really not making any progress with this problem.

lesterl · 11-09-2009, 11:52 PM

Fuel Pump relay is on the fender next to another relay.

I would check fuel pressure and fuel spray from the injector, is base time at 8*

gregsz-28 · 11-12-2009, 04:21 AM

On Tuesday I tested the blower motor by hooking the wire to it up to a headlight, and I determined that the problem is the blower motor.
Haven't had time to do much else, been busy insulating the garage. It is cold this time of year!

max1million · 11-12-2009, 07:31 AM

The blower you might just try unplugging the connector at the motor a few times, or just wiggling it around, while you have it turned on so can hear if it starts.

gregsz-28 · 11-12-2009, 04:37 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by max1million

The blower you might just try unplugging the connector at the motor a few times, or just wiggling it around, while you have it turned on so can hear if it starts.

Tried that already.

gregsz-28 · 11-14-2009, 11:00 PM

today when I accelerated (trying to get into traffic, so 3/4+ throttle) and the truck was cold it would seem to miss/stumble at over 25 mph in 2nd gear. To me this would be another indication of a dying fuel pump. I still haven't tested my fuel pressure, because the other day when I was going to, I realized my fuel pressure gauge only goes to 10 psi. So, I think I'll just replace the fuel pump. It can't be that hard anyways. Tonight I'll order a new Delco fuel pump and a blower motor.

Shaddix · 11-15-2009, 02:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28

today when I accelerated (trying to get into traffic, so 3/4+ throttle) and the truck was cold it would seem to miss/stumble at over 25 mph in 2nd gear. To me this would be another indication of a dying fuel pump. I still haven't tested my fuel pressure, because the other day when I was going to, I realized my fuel pressure gauge only goes to 10 psi. So, I think I'll just replace the fuel pump. It can't be that hard anyways. Tonight I'll order a new Delco fuel pump and a blower motor.

Have fun bro! I gotta drop my Blazer gas tank this weekend and get a new pump in it too. Have you ever changed the fuel filter behind the TBI unit near the firewall?

gregsz-28 · 11-15-2009, 03:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

Have fun bro! I gotta drop my Blazer gas tank this weekend and get a new pump in it too. Have you ever changed the fuel filter behind the TBI unit near the firewall?

Yeah, that's kinda a PITA. Glad I don't have to do that for another 20,000 miles.

Oh and I am now getting 23.96 MPG.

gregsz-28 · 11-16-2009, 02:31 AM

I checked the timing today, and I wish I would have done that a lot sooner. It was set to 4* advanced, and I set it to 8* advanced. It runs noticeably better, but it still has that same miss.

lesterl · 11-16-2009, 11:46 PM

Pull the bed to replace the pump instead of dropping the tank, 6 large bolts and lift the bed off.

gregsz-28 · 11-18-2009, 03:18 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by lesterl

Pull the bed to replace the pump instead of dropping the tank, 6 large bolts and lift the bed off.

Why do I never think of this stuff? I guess that's why I come here.
Should I replace the flex lines between the tank lines and the body lines??, and what kind of hose is it, and how much do I need?

Now my hard start problem only occurs sometimes, not sure why that would be

because before it started being hard to start it never was, then for a while it was hard to start everytime I tried to start it, now it is only maybe once a day...

My fuel pump should arrive tomorrow, and I don't have to work tomorrow, so guess what I'll be doing?

Yesterday I replaced the blower motor and now it works perfectly! I bought one from Napa instead of ordering one, it was a little cheaper at Napa.

Blkwdw86 · 11-18-2009, 07:00 PM

Twenty years ain't bad, I've had mine for a tick over 15. Bought it used with 58000 on it for 4k back in 94, the thing was mint. I'm the third proud owner.

gregsz-28 · 11-20-2009, 12:06 AM

Today I replaced my fuel pump, took about 1.5 hours.

I'm not sure if that fixed my hard to start problem, since it only does it sometimes now, but I'll post up in the next couple of days if it made a difference. It still has that miss though.

Shaddix · 11-20-2009, 12:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28

Today I replaced my fuel pump, took about 1.5 hours.

I'm not sure if that fixed my hard to start problem, since it only does it sometimes now, but I'll post up in the next couple of days if it made a difference. It still has that miss though.

How are your spark plugs gapped. Mine are at .060" like it says for stock, but I hear that these engine can really misfire at that large stock plug gap. I am gonna lessen my gap to see if it helps my intermittant misfire as well.

Secondly, have you replaced your fuel pump relay or checked it yet? It may be why your truck is hard to start because your oil pump has to build up 4psi of oil pressure from the starter turning until it kicks on the pump if the relay is dead. You will know if relay is dead cause it takes a lot longer to crank and start.

Steady Eddie · 11-20-2009, 09:44 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix

How are your spark plugs gapped. Mine are at .060" like it says for stock, but I hear that these engine can really misfire at that large stock plug gap. I am gonna lessen my gap to see if it helps my intermittent misfire as well.

Secondly, have you replaced your fuel pump relay or checked it yet? It may be why your truck is hard to start because your oil pump has to build up 4psi of oil pressure from the starter turning until it kicks on the pump if the relay is dead. You will know if relay is dead cause it takes a lot longer to crank and start.

======================

Autolite AP666 from Walmart..they are platinum tipped and will last for many 10s of thousands of miles..best part is: they only cost about two bucks each. Gap 'em at 45 thou...

BTW--I changed out my fuel pump relay and the old girl starts right up, usually on the first cylinder up on the compression stroke..a remarkable difference...

These little motors LOVE a strong battery and GOOD grounds, they need both. And bad grounds and a weak(er) battery spell trouble.

lesterl · 11-20-2009, 10:37 PM

Hows the compression?

10-27-2009, 09:50 PM	#51
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Alright thanks. Yeah I forgot to check that. I'll go look at it real quick.
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10-27-2009, 10:14 PM	#52
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing I just pulled out the PROM then put it right back in and then started the truck up, (it was still warm) and it didn't seem to make any difference. The ECM said remanufactured by GM on it...
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10-31-2009, 04:43 AM	#53
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing New problem- Yesterday I my truck started being difficult to start. By that, I mean that I now have to crank it over for a while for it to start. What could cause this? Leaky injector? Dying fuel pump? I don't think I have any kind of fuel leak, as I have never noticed smelling gasoline when I am around my truck.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-01-2009, 06:25 PM	#54
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing This morning I changed the fuel filter, and I'll post up later tonight whether or not it helps my hard to start problem.
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11-02-2009, 10:37 AM	#55
BuckyBoy02 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 24 Location: Plain City, Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: missing I have the exact same problem as gregz-28 post on 10-31. Yesterday, I took the injector out and switched on the fuel pump. Immediately lots of fuel gushed into the throat of the TBI. So it's getting plenty of gas to the injector. If I give it some ether, it will usually start, but I have to keep the throttle fairly wide open to run. It also will run fine once it "gets going". When I look inside the TBI when it is running, usually someone else has to press on the gas pedal to keep it running, I see gas dropping from injector, and swirling on the walls on the TBI. It appears its flooding out when trying to start, hence the hard starting, due to a bad injector not providing a misty fan spray to the TBI. It would also explain why going down the road there's no problem, because it can burn the excess fuel being delivered to it. Does this seem to make sense? With the injector installed, and by turning on the fuel pump, but not starting the engine, should you be able to see a fine misty spray inside the TBI coming from the injector? Last edited by BuckyBoy02 : 11-02-2009 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Missing words
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-02-2009, 11:59 AM	#56
Shaddix Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 144 Location: Astoria, Oregon User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by BuckyBoy02 I have the exact same problem as gregz-28 post on 10-31. Yesterday, I took the injector out and switched on the fuel pump. Immediately lots of fuel gushed into the throat of the TBI. So it's getting plenty of gas to the injector. If I give it some ether, it will usually start, but I have to keep the throttle fairly wide open to run. It also will run fine once it "gets going". When I look inside the TBI when it is running, usually someone else has to press on the gas pedal to keep it running, I see gas dropping from injector, and swirling on the walls on the TBI. It appears its flooding out when trying to start, hence the hard starting, due to a bad injector not providing a misty fan spray to the TBI. It would also explain why going down the road there's no problem, because it can burn the excess fuel being delivered to it. Does this seem to make sense? With the injector installed, and by turning on the fuel pump, but not starting the engine, should you be able to see a fine misty spray inside the TBI coming from the injector? Just as a FYI, my 4.3L truck is doing the same thing right now. Weak fuel spray and by pressing the gas its opening it up more so it will fire and start. I think a few of us are gonna be buying fuel pumps soon.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-02-2009, 02:11 PM	#57
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix ... I think a few of us are gonna be buying fuel pumps soon. Maybe someone will give us a group discount Changing my fuel filter didn't help, but it was the cheapest possible solution, so it was worth trying. Over 488 miles I drove in about 2 weeks, I got 23.6 mpg. Is this good, bad, or normal?
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11-02-2009, 08:46 PM	#58
BuckyBoy02 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 24 Location: Plain City, Ohio User is: OffLine	Re: missing Hey, I got my ole boy going! I feel embarrassed, but all it was, was the PLUGS! New plugs in, and he started right up. Stumbled a little, but as engine warmed up smoothed out. Drove him down the road, lots of power. I think now I'll do the rest of the tune-up. DUH. Sometimes we overlook the obvious, at least I do.
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11-03-2009, 10:44 PM	#59
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 30 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 4,402 Location: Harrisonville, MO User is: OffLine	Re: missing An EP386 (AC Delco) pump on www.amazon.com $47 free shipping, if you apply for the Amazon card IIRC they give you a discount from there...
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11-04-2009, 02:50 AM	#60
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing I do hope I don't need a new fuel pump. I haven't looked into my new problem again yet. My EGR valve didn't show up today, (**** fedex) but now they say it will tomorrow. How should I hook up a fuel pressure gauge, and how much pressure should I have? Last edited by gregsz-28 : 11-04-2009 at 02:52 AM.
	[Reply w/Quote]

11-04-2009, 11:01 PM	#61
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 30 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 4,402 Location: Harrisonville, MO User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28 I do hope I don't need a new fuel pump. I haven't looked into my new problem again yet. My EGR valve didn't show up today, (**** fedex) but now they say it will tomorrow. How should I hook up a fuel pressure gauge, and how much pressure should I have? 12+ PSI You will have to unhook the filter and hook up there or at TBI.
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11-05-2009, 01:50 AM	#62
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by lesterl 12+ PSI You will have to unhook the filter and hook up there or at TBI. I'll try hooking one up at the throttle body, I discovered the other day that it's a PITA to access the fuel filter. Today I received and replaced my EGR valve, and it still runs the same, ( ) but it still hasn't given me any codes. When I took the air cleaner off I noticed that it looked like smoke was coming out of the throttle body. Could that be a sign of the injector leaking? Or could it possibly be exhaust gas? My truck always has shut off a little rough, but I'm not sure if that is relevant. Another new problem: This started the other day. My blower motor usually doesn't work, but it will come on partly sometimes. I replaced the switch, and that didn't fix the problem, so I tested the voltage at the motor, and it was receiving 12 volts in every speed, except for off. It seems like it should be receiving less than 12 volts at lower speeds? And if the blower motor was the problem, wouldn't it not work all the time? Last edited by gregsz-28 : 11-05-2009 at 01:54 AM. Reason: spelling
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11-05-2009, 10:21 PM	#63
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 30 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 4,402 Location: Harrisonville, MO User is: OffLine	Re: missing Sounds like the blower motor is open, hence reading 12v. If you are curious, hook a headlight across the +/- on the blower contacts and try the settings, intensity should change. Smoke is a byproduct of combustion, could be possibly normal, IDK I am not there. Hows the timing sitting? Fuel pressure yet? Last edited by lesterl : 11-05-2009 at 10:22 PM.
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11-05-2009, 11:13 PM	#64
bansheeair Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 13 Location: BC User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix I think a few of us are gonna be buying fuel pumps soon. I know I will be. I have been having the starting problem for a couple months now. I figured it was the fuel pump as I have tried and tested everything else...I am hoping it fixes itself as I don't want to drop the tank.
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11-06-2009, 01:28 AM	#65
Shaddix Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 144 Location: Astoria, Oregon User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by bansheeair I know I will be. I have been having the starting problem for a couple months now. I figured it was the fuel pump as I have tried and tested everything else...I am hoping it fixes itself as I don't want to drop the tank. Damn man, you have owned your same S-10 for 20 YEARS? Thats insane! Id love to have driven my truck when it was BRAND NEW, I bet it felt so nice to drive and close the door and not worry about the latch and hinges breaking off =)
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11-06-2009, 03:25 AM	#66
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by lesterl Sounds like the blower motor is open, hence reading 12v. If you are curious, hook a headlight across the +/- on the blower contacts and try the settings, intensity should change. Smoke is a byproduct of combustion, could be possibly normal, IDK I am not there. Hows the timing sitting? Fuel pressure yet? I'll try to remember to try the headlight thing tomorrow. I didn't check the fuel pressure or timing yet. What is the timing supposed to be set to? There's probably a sticker under my hood that says...
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11-06-2009, 11:57 AM	#67
bansheeair Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 13 Location: BC User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix Damn man, you have owned your same S-10 for 20 YEARS? Thats insane! Id love to have driven my truck when it was BRAND NEW, I bet it felt so nice to drive and close the door and not worry about the latch and hinges breaking off =) LOL. It's pretty hard to remember driving it without some sort of problem. I do remember that at 225000km wondering if the duke would ever pack it in so I could drop an small block in. It never gives me a $1000 bill to warrant a replacement motor but it does nickel and dime me. It now has 370000km and I put them all on. LOL. I had this same truck and motor in the hayday of mini trucks. Used to travel up and down the coast with a club called Low Altitude Minis and showed at NorthWest Mini Truck Council shows. Oh the memories. Last edited by bansheeair : 11-06-2009 at 12:02 PM.
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11-06-2009, 06:13 PM	#68
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Just now on my way home it gave me code 32 again. Is it possible that my original problem and my hard to start problem are related, both being caused by a bad injector? Maybe I'll have time to test the fuel pressure tomorrow.
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11-06-2009, 10:21 PM	#69
Shaddix Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 144 Location: Astoria, Oregon User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28 Just now on my way home it gave me code 32 again. Is it possible that my original problem and my hard to start problem are related, both being caused by a bad injector? Maybe I'll have time to test the fuel pressure tomorrow. Did you buy a brand new AC Delco EGR valve for the right transmission? Is the truck still missing or whats it doing? Just hard to start might be a bad fuel pump relay Ive heard, as it will take a while before the oil pump builds up the 4psi it takes to turn on the fuel pump without the relay through the oil pressure switch. EGR needs to have the solenoid connected with the right valve installed. Is your code 32 consistant or does it come and go?
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11-07-2009, 04:00 AM	#70
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix Did you buy a brand new AC Delco EGR valve for the right transmission? Yes... maybe I'll double check the part# anyways... Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix Is the truck still missing... Yes Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix Just hard to start might be a bad fuel pump relay Ive heard, as it will take a while before the oil pump builds up the 4psi it takes to turn on the fuel pump without the relay through the oil pressure switch. I'll look into that. Do you know where the fuel pump relay is located? Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix EGR needs to have the solenoid connected with the right valve installed. Is your code 32 consistant or does it come and go? The solenoid is connected. I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. I'll try to describe what happens exactly. After I first reset the code after I got it the first time, it took a lot of driving before it happened again. After the SES light comes on, it soon goes off, but the code is stored. Even though the code is stored the light won't come on while I'm driving after it happens once.
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11-07-2009, 02:05 PM	#71
Shaddix Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 144 Location: Astoria, Oregon User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28 Yes... maybe I'll double check the part# anyways... Yes I'll look into that. Do you know where the fuel pump relay is located? The solenoid is connected. I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. I'll try to describe what happens exactly. After I first reset the code after I got it the first time, it took a lot of driving before it happened again. After the SES light comes on, it soon goes off, but the code is stored. Even though the code is stored the light won't come on while I'm driving after it happens once. I was asking about the code coming and going, because on a few trucks, the code 32 will come on and go away while your driving it. It just stores the code and doesnt affect the way it runs. Highways it will try to test it, and when the EGR system fails to work properly, it will throw the code like yours. Some people talk about the code coming on and staying on making the truck run in OPEN LOOP therefore never running very good at all! I am just puzzled by your EGR solenoid operation. You said that you get FULL manifold vacuum through the EGR solenoid when the connector is plugged in and working even at idle. When the EGR solenoid is unplugged from the computer, it stops all EGR flow, because an idling motor should NOT have any EGR flow at all. HOW ON EARTH IS THAT POSSIBLE? WHY IS THIS EGR VALVE OPENING AT IDLE? What the hell is the EGR solenoids job if it is open at all times including cold idle? If the EGR valve is opening all the time, at idle, crusing, anytime the throttle plate is open, this is NOT THE WAY EGR's are supposed to work at all. It should only open on a part throttle cruise I thought???
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11-07-2009, 03:40 PM	#72
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix I was asking about the code coming and going, because on a few trucks, the code 32 will come on and go away while your driving it. It just stores the code and doesnt affect the way it runs. Highways it will try to test it, and when the EGR system fails to work properly, it will throw the code like yours. Sounds like what happened to me. Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix Some people talk about the code coming on and staying on making the truck run in OPEN LOOP therefore never running very good at all! Yeah, I don't think that happened. Maybe it did the first time, and that is why the truck felt like it had no power while the light was on. Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix I am just puzzled by your EGR solenoid operation. You said that you get FULL manifold vacuum through the EGR solenoid when the connector is plugged in and working even at idle. When the EGR solenoid is unplugged from the computer, it stops all EGR flow, because an idling motor should NOT have any EGR flow at all. I must have said the wrong thing earlier. The solenoid recieved no power to it when I started the truck cold, for the first ten minutes it ran. My solenoid is hooked up to ported manifold vacuum, and it lets all the vacuum through it that it receives, but since it is hooked up to ported vacuum, there is no vacuum to it at idle, but it gets full vacuum once I open the throttle blade. Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix HOW ON EARTH IS THAT POSSIBLE? WHY IS THIS EGR VALVE OPENING AT IDLE? What the hell is the EGR solenoids job if it is open at all times including cold idle? ... Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix If the EGR valve is opening all the time, at idle, crusing, anytime the throttle plate is open, this is NOT THE WAY EGR's are supposed to work at all. It should only open on a part throttle cruise I thought??? From what I can tell, the EGR valve receives no vacuum only during the first 10 minutes the truck is running and at idle.
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11-08-2009, 03:33 PM	#73
Shaddix Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 144 Location: Astoria, Oregon User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28 Sounds like what happened to me. Yeah, I don't think that happened. Maybe it did the first time, and that is why the truck felt like it had no power while the light was on. I must have said the wrong thing earlier. The solenoid recieved no power to it when I started the truck cold, for the first ten minutes it ran. My solenoid is hooked up to ported manifold vacuum, and it lets all the vacuum through it that it receives, but since it is hooked up to ported vacuum, there is no vacuum to it at idle, but it gets full vacuum once I open the throttle blade. ... From what I can tell, the EGR valve receives no vacuum only during the first 10 minutes the truck is running and at idle. Hmmm OK then, well if you have a fully working EGR system, with an AC Delco valve and solenoid it should be working as intended! The only things coming to mind is an older, slow reading O2 sensor that maybe is detecting changes slowly and when it tests and shows the reading is slow to the ecm, maybe thats is its part of the check???? The code is coming on when your ecm is checking the egr solenoid at part-throttle cruise at 40+MPH right? Not at idle... I have the exact same problem as you man. To the tee in my truck. I need to buy an EGR valve for mine but you have just spent $80 on one and it isnt fixing the problem. Thats why I really am interested and concerned here as I dont want to buy a damn valve and not have it work!!!
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11-08-2009, 10:44 PM	#74
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix Hmmm OK then, well if you have a fully working EGR system, with an AC Delco valve and solenoid it should be working as intended! Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix The only things coming to mind is an older, slow reading O2 sensor that maybe is detecting changes slowly and when it tests and shows the reading is slow to the ecm, maybe thats is its part of the check???? I already replaced the 02 sensor, didn't help at all. Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix The code is coming on when your ecm is checking the egr solenoid at part-throttle cruise at 40+MPH right? Not at idle... Correct Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix I have the exact same problem as you man. To the tee in my truck. I need to buy an EGR valve for mine but you have just spent $80 on one and it isnt fixing the problem. Thats why I really am interested and concerned here as I dont want to buy a damn valve and not have it work!!! I haven't done anything with my truck the last few days except drive it, so I'm really not making any progress with this problem.
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11-09-2009, 11:52 PM	#75
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 30 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 4,402 Location: Harrisonville, MO User is: OffLine	Re: missing Fuel Pump relay is on the fender next to another relay. I would check fuel pressure and fuel spray from the injector, is base time at 8*
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11-12-2009, 04:21 AM	#76
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing On Tuesday I tested the blower motor by hooking the wire to it up to a headlight, and I determined that the problem is the blower motor. Haven't had time to do much else, been busy insulating the garage. It is cold this time of year!
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11-12-2009, 07:31 AM	#77
max1million Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 179 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing The blower you might just try unplugging the connector at the motor a few times, or just wiggling it around, while you have it turned on so can hear if it starts.
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11-12-2009, 04:37 PM	#78
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by max1million The blower you might just try unplugging the connector at the motor a few times, or just wiggling it around, while you have it turned on so can hear if it starts. Tried that already.
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11-14-2009, 11:00 PM	#79
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing today when I accelerated (trying to get into traffic, so 3/4+ throttle) and the truck was cold it would seem to miss/stumble at over 25 mph in 2nd gear. To me this would be another indication of a dying fuel pump. I still haven't tested my fuel pressure, because the other day when I was going to, I realized my fuel pressure gauge only goes to 10 psi. So, I think I'll just replace the fuel pump. It can't be that hard anyways. Tonight I'll order a new Delco fuel pump and a blower motor.
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11-15-2009, 02:51 PM	#80
Shaddix Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 144 Location: Astoria, Oregon User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by gregsz-28 today when I accelerated (trying to get into traffic, so 3/4+ throttle) and the truck was cold it would seem to miss/stumble at over 25 mph in 2nd gear. To me this would be another indication of a dying fuel pump. I still haven't tested my fuel pressure, because the other day when I was going to, I realized my fuel pressure gauge only goes to 10 psi. So, I think I'll just replace the fuel pump. It can't be that hard anyways. Tonight I'll order a new Delco fuel pump and a blower motor. Have fun bro! I gotta drop my Blazer gas tank this weekend and get a new pump in it too. Have you ever changed the fuel filter behind the TBI unit near the firewall?
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11-15-2009, 03:54 PM	#81
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by Shaddix Have fun bro! I gotta drop my Blazer gas tank this weekend and get a new pump in it too. Have you ever changed the fuel filter behind the TBI unit near the firewall? Yeah, that's kinda a PITA. Glad I don't have to do that for another 20,000 miles. Oh and I am now getting 23.96 MPG.
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11-16-2009, 02:31 AM	#82
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing I checked the timing today, and I wish I would have done that a lot sooner. It was set to 4* advanced, and I set it to 8* advanced. It runs noticeably better, but it still has that same miss.
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11-16-2009, 11:46 PM	#83
lesterl Wire Splicin Fool :-) Age: 30 Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 4,402 Location: Harrisonville, MO User is: OffLine	Re: missing Pull the bed to replace the pump instead of dropping the tank, 6 large bolts and lift the bed off.
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11-18-2009, 03:18 PM	#84
gregsz-28 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 58 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Quote: Originally Posted by lesterl Pull the bed to replace the pump instead of dropping the tank, 6 large bolts and lift the bed off. Why do I never think of this stuff? I guess that's why I come here. Should I replace the flex lines between the tank lines and the body lines??, and what kind of hose is it, and how much do I need? Now my hard start problem only occurs sometimes, not sure why that would be because before it started being hard to start it never was, then for a while it was hard to start everytime I tried to start it, now it is only maybe once a day... My fuel pump should arrive tomorrow, and I don't have to work tomorrow, so guess what I'll be doing? Yesterday I replaced the blower motor and now it works perfectly! I bought one from Napa instead of ordering one, it was a little cheaper at Napa.
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11-18-2009, 07:00 PM	#85
Blkwdw86 86, 2.5L, 4spd Age: 39 Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 7 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: missing Twenty years ain't bad, I've had mine for a tick over 15. Bought it used with 58000 on it for 4k back in 94, the thing was mint. I'm the third proud owner.
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