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Hall effect switch

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Old 04-19-2009, 01:04 AM   #1
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Hall effect switch

I have been told that the fuel pump wont work if the Hall effect switch is bad or not working, Now I thought that the Hall effect switch sent rpm info to the ecm, am I right or wrong?
Old 04-19-2009, 09:46 AM   #2
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Re: Hall effect switch

whats wrong with the car
Old 04-19-2009, 08:54 PM   #3
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Re: Hall effect switch

Nothing Is wrong with my s10 im just going to put a high performance distributor in it and i dont know if I need the Hall effect switch
Old 04-19-2009, 10:49 PM   #4
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Re: Hall effect switch

You throwing your money away. Read some threads about performance questions on the iron duke and you'll know what i mean.
Old 04-20-2009, 08:39 AM   #5
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Re: Hall effect switch

You mite say that but everyone and there brother puts a small block in there s-10. Im not like that I like to do things differently. I like the iron duke.And there is room for improvment there.
Old 04-20-2009, 10:26 AM   #6
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Lightbulb Re: Hall effect switch

Quote: Originally Posted by confederate1
You might say that, but everyone and their brother puts a small block in their s-10. I'm not like that I like to do things differently. I like the iron duke. And there is room for improvement there.
======================
Confed1--

I see that you have but only 7 posts on this forum..allow me to give you a BIG Welcome.

When attempting to pull every once of available power out of an otherwise Stock S10 Iron Duke, you must remember what it was designed (engineered) to do. It was built for Economy (with a big "E"). There are many things that can be done to increase this, some of which, you need to do but ONE time. These one-time Mods are basically Owner Confidence Builders. (OCBs). Like the system you asked about. The ignition system. One time, you should remove the entire distributor and either check it yourself or have it checked for gear and shaft wear. These old S10s have LOTS of miles on them, a silent testimony of just how well this system was designed. Make sure that the Hall Effect Switch and Ignition Module are good. Next come the rotor and distributor cap. You are basically just restoring full function to the distributor itself. But this is a one-time deal, the freshened distributor will go an additional 200,000 miles. Buy and use GOOD parts, expensive up front, but this is an OCB you only need do one time.

Last edited by Steady Eddie; 04-20-2009 at 10:33 AM.
Old 04-20-2009, 01:34 PM   #7
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Re: Hall effect switch

Quote: Originally Posted by Mafia_Insurance
You throwing your money away. Read some threads about performance questions on the iron duke and you'll know what i mean.
^X2^
It doesn't matter if you light the fire with a stick match or a jewel encrusted Zippo, as long as it happens at the right time.
Old 04-20-2009, 02:24 PM   #8
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Re: Hall effect switch

mafia insurance is right the 2.5 is just for economy thats why i like mine u can upgrade the ignition and exhaust and those little things, that will get u more gas mileage thats what i did but thats all u can pretty much do it wont be fast for anything if u want fast stick a V8 in it that bitch that wat im doing in my other S10
Old 04-20-2009, 05:03 PM   #9
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Re: Hall effect switch

Why does every one keep telling me to put a v8 in it? I dont want to that is what everyone does. and any at the end of the day yours might be faster but mine will still be a matching numbers truck
Old 04-20-2009, 06:12 PM   #10
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Re: Hall effect switch

put a turbo in it, thats different. i love my 2.5, i tried to make it fast, i put taylors 8.2 wires,msd coil,accel module,k&n air filter,2.5" borla muffler no cat dumped and i use mobil 1 5w30 i didnt want to go all out and put a cam or a better head ive beat a couple of hondas before but nothing special but i get Excellent gas mileage i finally got it running perfect after a year of putting the rebuild motor in, ill never get rid of this truck and i bought it for just $200
Old 04-20-2009, 08:59 PM   #11
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Re: Hall effect switch

Look at the things that may go wrong in the future with this car, such as ac compressor, fuel pump, radiator, distributor, suspension, transmission, rear end, the stock parts that matter you know. This cars are meant to go slow and for a long time; If you go putting parts on a specifically designed slow motor for speed, and then test it, BOOM.
Wanna make it fast ? Spray it. It will be as fast as it can be, break as fast as with the other parts BUT it will be a lot cheaper.
And you dont necessarily have to put a V8 in it, you can throw a used 2.8 and it will be faster than a lightly modified 2.5 , which can cost a LOT more than a $200 used 2.8 lol.
If you want to make it fast, make your life easier, save that money, and buy yourself a car that has a tested and true development plan for power, say, a 4.3 s10, or any of the many other examples you can think that respond well to mods. One of the biggest regrets you will have is looking at the amounts of money spent and the results being nil; i will give you this example. I had a 1991 cadillac with a 4.9, a tranny on its way out, leaks of all sorts, etc...and it would stay steady with an audi turbo a4, older, auto, but still, get the picture ?
You think of that. There is a lot of research to be done before thinking that throwing your money at a motor will yield positive results.
Old 04-20-2009, 11:58 PM   #12
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Thumbs up Re: Hall effect switch

Steady Eddie;


First thanks for the welcome

Now I must tell what I have done to my Iron Duke
1.Taylor 8.5mm wires (blue in color)
2.Rebuilt the throttle body injection
3.Gasket matched the head, intake and exhaust sides, ported and polished
4.Gasket matched the intake
5.Valve work
6. Comp cam
7.MSD 6-A ignition box (module)
8.MSD Hi-Performance HEI Coil
9.MSD 6 -A to MSD coil wiring harness
10.Crank work
11.Edelbrock chrome breather (open) with K&N
12.Chrome valve cover
13.Chrome push in oil breather
14.Sealed power pistons
15 New steel timing gears.
16.Mallory Unilite Hi-Performance distributor
17.All new internals in engine
18.Engine painted Daytona yellow

Now for my wish list or future plans
1. Flex-a lite fan
2. Holley tbi
3. Header from Clifford performance
4. 2.5inch exhaust pipe
5. Posi traction.
Old 04-21-2009, 08:43 AM   #13
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Lightbulb Re: Hall effect switch

Confed1--

From your list of present mods, I see that you have done well.

Me, on the other hand, I would have stopped with the ignition mods at the MSD new, aftermarket coil. The MSD 6-A box is nice, too, but IMHO it is overkill. The stock OE stuff works very well, except needing more fire at peak torque RPMs. The stock coil is rated at 32K volts and the MSD is rated at 48K volts, which "supposedly" results in a smoother idle, and somewhat quicker starts.

Does your timing gear set, with the helical (slash) cut gears, make noise like the straight cut timing gear sets??? In other words: Do they whine??

Your use of the K&N filter, I disagree with. But maybe that's just me. There are millions of them in use, but the reason that they "flow more" is because the filter media has larger holes in it. In race use, they re-build their engines after every race. So a bit more silica into the motor does not matter. I choose to not allow any sand (silica) into my motors and change the paper media OE filter elements often.
But, again that is MY opinion. In any event, an open air cleaner, regardless of what element is used, is constantly drawing in heated air from the engine bay, and heated air drawn in at any temperature OVER 86* F. will cause the IAT sensor to begin signaling the brainbox to RETARD the timing.
That said, you will LOSE power and fuel economy from an open element filter....sure it LOOKS sexy, but looks are not everything. The ugly OE air filter assembly can out flow the TBI...and it filters a very high percentage of dirt removed, up over the K&N printed filter rates.

Last edited by Steady Eddie; 04-21-2009 at 08:52 AM.
Old 04-21-2009, 09:11 AM   #14
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Exclamation Re: Hall effect switch

I also see that you have installed a "push in chrome oil breather"...

You have then modified the OE PCV System. I know this one thing: These engines DO NOT like ANY vacuum leaks.

If you understand the PCV System please explain to me how it is NOT and open vacuum leak?? It sure appears to my untrained eye, that it IS a big vacuum leak. Maybe that the PCV ball-check valve somehow throttles this system. I don't know..but if you installed a big-assed chromed filter/breather in the valve cover, then you have compromised the Pontiac engineering that went into it.
Once again, my two cents worth, and it ain't much.

I do not savvy the PCV System at all...
Old 04-21-2009, 10:00 AM   #15
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Re: Hall effect switch

Tell us about your Comp Cam.

I've had a terrible time attempting to find some cam company, somewhere, that builds a camshaft, for my 1989 Iron Duke.

It has OE roller hydraulic lifters in it.

I went out to Comp Cams Web-site and I did not find a 151 cu. inch Chevy/Pontiac/GM cam kit listed..

They have the timing gears, pushrods, etc. but no camshaft.

And here's another thing: Many cam makers do not list the roller lifters, either. They list flat tappet style, only. Here's the pic of the 151 cu. in. lifters available at Comp Cams:

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...822-16_600.jpg

I'd like to retain the rollers....
Old 04-21-2009, 11:38 AM   #16
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Re: Hall effect switch

Eddie
my cam part number from summit is slp-cs-782 Im sorry i dont think it is comp. my push in breather is in the back hole of my breather where my hose for the oem oil breather was i still have a pvc in the scond hole then my chrome oil cap is in the last hole, My valve cover has three holes in it, my truck is an 1986 so maybe my cover is differant
Old 04-21-2009, 11:43 AM   #17
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Re: Hall effect switch

And my timing gears are the helical (slash) cut and no they dont whine or at least i cant hear them they are from cloyes
Old 04-21-2009, 10:16 PM   #18
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Re: Hall effect switch

When I rebuilt my '89 she was pretty strong, in fact I would say stronger than my brothers old 2.8l and my old 2.8l, sounds like you are on the right track, good luck man!!!!
Old 04-21-2009, 11:42 PM   #19
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Re: Hall effect switch

Hall effect switch

I have been told that the fuel pump wont work if the Hall effect switch is bad or not working, Now I thought that the Hall effect switch sent rpm info to the ecm, am I right or wrong? can someone tell me if thay know anything on this.
Old 04-22-2009, 10:20 AM   #20
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Re: Hall effect switch

confed1--

I do not know if the Hall Effect Switch has any bearing on if the fuel pump runs. I do know that ignition on, the pump runs and pressurizes the fuel rail, then shuts off. Then, the brainbox starts the pump, using a power feed through the fuel pump relay. If the relay is bad (stuck, or just bad) then the fuel pump waits for the oil pressure signal, causing longer (slow starts) crank times. Now, what should happen if the oil pressure sender is bad, AT THE SAME TIME?? I think, don't really know, that this would result in a no-start condition. But, my engine will start and run with the oil pressure sending sensor unplugged (?) It is my understanding (could be dead-assed wrong) that the Hall Effect Switch tells the injector when to spray.
Old 04-22-2009, 10:31 AM   #21
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Re: Hall effect switch

My Haynes repair manual says the Hall effect switch is used in place of the R terminal of the HEI distributor to send enging RPM info to the ECM
Old 04-22-2009, 01:32 PM   #22
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Re: Hall effect switch

You know the answer to your question,... so was this whole thing a test of some kind? Give me an "F".
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