To make a cheap 383

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 02:22 PM

Can I just take a new stroker crankshaft and add it to an existing stock assembly?
The motor ill be getting Came out of a running 87 blazer 4wd plow truck. 4 bolt main 43k.

I just simply want to buy a new stroker crank and through it in.
Im not out to make allot of hp an little more HP would be nice but I guess im asking is can it be done with no neg effects?

neel2008 · 11-05-2009, 02:34 PM

dont quote me but i believe if u can get ahold of a 400 "cheap" from a junkyard or something, and rob the crank and rods out of it and have a buddy who will do cheap machine shop work cut down the journals on the 400 crank to fit ur 350 bearings, u might have a somewhat "cheap" 383 in the end.

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 02:47 PM

Why cant I take my stock crankshaft out and bolt this one in? Before I do the motor swap?

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 02:59 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sbc-S...fAcce ssories

neel2008 · 11-05-2009, 03:06 PM

holy shit, not if i buy it first!! thats frekin cheap as hell. I cant find anything wrong with it and he's a power seller, 140 bucks plus 25 shipping for me is a frekin steal.

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 03:47 PM

Dude your broke go away lol

There are a ton on ebay so.
Can I remove the stock one out the 350 and replace it with one like this?

**03blazer** · 11-05-2009, 04:06 PM

You can keep your stock rods. You'll need new pistons. The stroker crank is .27" longer than the stock 350 crank so your stock pistons would stick over a quarter inch out of the bore.

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 04:09 PM

Or I can get shorter rods correct. Whats easier?

**03blazer** · 11-05-2009, 04:12 PM

No, building a 383 requires special pistons regardless. The stock rods for a 350 only came in 2 lengths, 5.7" and 6", each of which require special pistons. If you're going to build a stroker, don't half ass it. I'm sure you can find the pistons fairly cheap on ebay as well... I don't know if I would trust them... but I'm sure they're there.

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 04:40 PM

Im not half assing anything if it fits and it work that's the correct way. Thats what im trying to achieve.
Why would I want to build something half as , just because I dont want to put the best and most costly parts in a block dose not mean its half assed. All it means in my eyes is I dont care bought every drop of horse power. Its not a concern for me.

I need help not negativity. Ill look into the pistons thanks.

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 04:53 PM

I can find plenty at a decent price but they all are over bored none standard.
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...kw=383+pistons

**03blazer** · 11-05-2009, 04:57 PM

That's because to build a 383, the block has to be bored .030". Otherwise it will come out to 377ci.

Crew Cab Sonoma · 11-05-2009, 05:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 03blazer

No, building a 383 requires special pistons regardless. The stock rods for a 350 only came in 2 lengths, 5.7" and 6", each of which require special pistons. If you're going to build a stroker, don't half ass it. I'm sure you can find the pistons fairly cheap on ebay as well... I don't know if I would trust them... but I'm sure they're there.

400 rods will allow you to use std. 350 pistons.
some minor clearancing at the bottom of the cylinder bore/oil pan
rail area of the block is usually required, regardless of which
rrod is used.
and of course, a balancing job is highly recomended.
you will likely need a 400 style hormonic damper,
and a properly counter weighted flywheel/flexplate as well.

**03blazer** · 11-05-2009, 06:08 PM

Hmm... how long are the stock 400 rods? Even then, it still wouldn't be a 383...

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 06:30 PM

Are the 400 rods smaller than the 350 rods. And yes what size rods does the 400 use?

**03blazer** · 11-05-2009, 07:05 PM

Found it. The stock 400 rods are 5.565". Even if you did use a 400 rod, the piston would still stick out by about .135".

wayfastwhitey · 11-05-2009, 07:09 PM

The longer the rod you use, the happier the engine will be. DO NOT use the stock 400 rods. At least keep the 5.7 rods. There is no way around buying new pistons. You can get a set of Speed Pro hypereutectic slugs for about $250. Short rods lead to higher angularity and increase piston/cylinder wear.

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 07:50 PM

Wiki says

http://site1.wikianswers.com/templat..._a.gif?v=57306
The small block 350 uses a smaller main bearing diameter than the Small block 400. To run a 400 crank in a 350 the crank must be "turned" down at a machine shop to fit the 350 bearing diameters. You also will need to use special pistons with the correct compression height for the 350 IF you are using the 5.7 inch 350 connecting rods. If you use the 5.565 inch 400 connecting rods , then you can use regular 350 pistons. The longer stroke 400 crank also requires that you provide additional clearance inside the block, by grinding notches to eliminate the crank hitting the block and other parts. Finally, the entire engine must be re-balanced to make sure that the engine does not vibrate. The 400 is externally balanced and the 350 is internally balenced so you need to use 400 flywheel and 400 harmonic balancer.

Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey

The longer the rod you use, the happier the engine will be. DO NOT use the stock 400 rods. At least keep the 5.7 rods. There is no way around buying new pistons. You can get a set of Speed Pro hypereutectic slugs for about $250. Short rods lead to higher angularity and increase piston/cylinder wear.

Can you show me a link to these slugs?

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 08:35 PM

Here is a -Odd_ post I found.

-The Stig-
07-14-2002, 01:55 AM

a 400 Crank in a 350 block gives you a 383

a 350 Crank in a 400 block gives you a 377.

Why would you want to do that?

Well as we may or may not know, a 327 is a high reving engine.

a 377 is basically a 327 but with more Cubes... i.e. more grunt. Same way the 400 is like a 350... just has more grunt to be had.

I could be wrong... then again What do I know... I drive a Nova.

Know what also sucks? I have a large stack of Car Mags... one of them... has an article on odd ball strokers. It would of been handy, I could of given you more info. But Murphy's Law would have it... I cant find the darned thing.

RedNeck
"What do I know... I drive a Nova." - Me

I just want to bolt a few cheap peices toghter can some one tell me what ill need? please

wayfastwhitey · 11-05-2009, 08:50 PM

ok, they're $310...but close enough. You can find them cheaper if you look.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UE...n/?prefilter=1

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 08:51 PM

I cant see why I would need pistons and not smaller rods.
well i found these but I dont see how they would offer a solution to my problem.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-S...item2302f8d4fa

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 08:52 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey

ok, they're $310...but close enough. You can find them cheaper if you look.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UE...n/?prefilter=1

Why would those fix my problem? I mean how?

Why cant I use my stock pistons and use 400 rods?Like it says to do every where else.

wayfastwhitey · 11-05-2009, 08:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey

ok, they're $310...but close enough. You can find them cheaper if you look.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UE...n/?prefilter=1

Remember, when building an engine, there is a HUGE difference between which parts you CAN use and those you SHOULD use.

Also, I would NEVER clearance the block for a 400 crank. Spend a little extra and have the counterbalance throws on the crank turned down for clearance. I'm dealing with that situation right now where a customer clearanced the block. He threw a rod through the side of the cylinder and now, instead of $75 to install a standard sleeve, he's looking at almost $200 for a flanged sleeve to make the repair. All because he clearanced all the material at the bottom of the cylinder which would normally support the standard sleeve.

wayfastwhitey · 11-05-2009, 09:01 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Arich0908

Why would those fix my problem? I mean how?

Why cant I use my stock pistons and use 400 rods?Like it says to do every where else.

You are welcomed to build this however you like, but the shorter 400 rods will cause as severe angle in relation to the cylinder. This will lead to excessive piston skirt wear and excessive cylinder wear. It's a matter of longevity.

mabru · 11-05-2009, 09:27 PM

I'm currently in the process of building a 383 myself, block is at the machine shop now. Just read this article and its pretty informative

http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm

66Mustang · 11-05-2009, 09:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey

You are welcomed to build this however you like, but the shorter 400 rods will cause as severe angle in relation to the cylinder. This will lead to excessive piston skirt wear and excessive cylinder wear. It's a matter of longevity.

Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios....

Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise...

Maverick2664 · 11-05-2009, 09:48 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 66Mustang

Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise...

its a proven fact that when you use a longer rod, it reduces the angle that the rod enters the cylinder which reduces the piston skirt pressure, that means less friction, and less friction means more power, and faster and higher revs

rod ratio is not bs

556mm · 11-05-2009, 09:50 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 66Mustang

Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise...

you have a mustang gtfo.

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 09:51 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey

Remember, when building an engine, there is a HUGE difference between which parts you CAN use and those you SHOULD use.

Also, I would NEVER clearance the block for a 400 crank. Spend a little extra and have the counterbalance throws on the crank turned down for clearance. I'm dealing with that situation right now where a customer clearanced the block. He threw a rod through the side of the cylinder and now, instead of $75 to install a standard sleeve, he's looking at almost $200 for a flanged sleeve to make the repair. All because he clearanced all the material at the bottom of the cylinder which would normally support the standard sleeve.

I understand what your saying and thanks for the heads up, But If I choose to keep the stock pistons I can use 5.565 rods and ill have a runner no?

Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey

You are welcomed to build this however you like, but the shorter 400 rods will cause as severe angle in relation to the cylinder. This will lead to excessive piston skirt wear and excessive cylinder wear. It's a matter of longevity.

I hear ya on that and this will be driven daily some that is a big factor thank you.

Quote: Originally Posted by mabru

I'm currently in the process of building a 383 myself, block is at the machine shop now. Just read this article and its pretty informative

http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm

Thanks ill read into it.

Quote: Originally Posted by 66Mustang

Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise...

Im not building nothing high HP I dont even wish to have bullet proof internals.
Im just trying to add a little hp by upping the displacement a very cheap way.
I didnt realize this was the unanswerable ? of taboo in the s10 forum.
Every one here thinks because some one is modding something its going to do wheelies down the track!!

SH-60B · 11-05-2009, 10:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 66Mustang

Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise...

There are a few good reasons to run a longer rod besides the sidewall loading and friction. A longer rod slows the piston approaching and leaving TDC so the piston changes direction more gradually, it's easier on the rod caps.
They also keep the piston at TDC longer so you can run a little less advance. If you're going to get new or re-built rods anyway, get longer ones.

**03blazer** · 11-05-2009, 10:11 PM

Here are some links to the parts it would take to build what you're wanting. It can be done easily for under $400. You can keep your stock 350 (5.7") rods. It won't actually be a 383 unless you bored the block .030" over. If you're not wanting to bore the block, the parts you need are listed below. You'll need the balancer from a 400 and all the new rod/main bearings and gaskets.

Eagle Crankshaft
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-103503750/

Summit Pistons
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-17383-00/

Maverick2664 · 11-05-2009, 10:16 PM

to arich: why dont you just buy a stroker kit, i built a 383 "on the cheap" about 7 years ago, the kit i bought was $500, came with a crank, rods, pistons, and rings... which anyway you cut it is going to be the cheapest youll get a 383

lets run some numbers real quick, say you find a 400 crank from a yard, youll still need to have it turned down to fit the 350 journals, and youll still need to find rods and pistons, which you will have to buy new, unless the rods are full floating (which you wont find in a junkyard) you cant really reuse them, once a pin has been installed thats about it, its too stretched to take out and put a new piston on with the clamping force that it needs to keep the pin in place... costs: a few hundred in machining to both the block and crank, $300+ in new pistons, and a few more hundred in rods

or, buy a new "stroker" crank, but again, youll still need rods and 383 pistons, and youll still need machine work done to the block

or you can try to get a usable set of 400 rods, but you still wouldnt be able to use the pistons you already have, and of course you would still have to buy the crank, have machine work done to the block, and this time have to have custom pistons made because you are using a screwy rod length, which i can only assume is big dollars

bottom line: there is no "cheap stroker" no matter what you do, youre still going to have to throw down $700+... and for a plow truck? i wouldnt even bother

**03blazer** · 11-05-2009, 10:20 PM

Just FYI, he said it came out of a plow truck... didn't say it was going in one...

Maverick2664 · 11-05-2009, 10:28 PM

oh lol sorry, i must have read that wrong... ok then forget the plow truck comment then

Arich0908 · 11-05-2009, 10:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 03blazer

Here are some links to the parts it would take to build what you're wanting. It can be done easily for under $400. You can keep your stock 350 (5.7") rods. It won't actually be a 383 unless you bored the block .030" over. If you're not wanting to bore the block, the parts you need are listed below. You'll need the balancer from a 400 and all the new rod/main bearings and gaskets.

Eagle Crankshaft
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-103503750/

Summit Pistons
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-17383-00/

This is what ill be buying thank you. Im sure I can notch the relifs my self. Ive done it with 2 stroke motors I have built .
This should give it the wake up and pep im looking for.
Will this raise my compression ratio?
I will be able to keep the stock rods with the kit but I should buy new bearings for the rods though correct while im down there?

Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664

to arich: why dont you just buy a stroker kit, i built a 383 "on the cheap" about 7 years ago, the kit i bought was $500, came with a crank, rods, pistons, and rings... which anyway you cut it is going to be the cheapest youll get a 383

lets run some numbers real quick, say you find a 400 crank from a yard, youll still need to have it turned down to fit the 350 journals, and youll still need to find rods and pistons, which you will have to buy new, unless the rods are full floating (which you wont find in a junkyard) you cant really reuse them, once a pin has been installed thats about it, its too stretched to take out and put a new piston on with the clamping force that it needs to keep the pin in place... costs: a few hundred in machining to both the block and crank, $300+ in new pistons, and a few more hundred in rods

or, buy a new "stroker" crank, but again, youll still need rods and 383 pistons, and youll still need machine work done to the block

or you can try to get a usable set of 400 rods, but you still wouldnt be able to use the pistons you already have, and of course you would still have to buy the crank, have machine work done to the block, and this time have to have custom pistons made because you are using a screwy rod length, which i can only assume is big dollars

bottom line: there is no "cheap stroker" no matter what you do, youre still going to have to throw down $700+... and for a plow truck? i wouldnt even bother

Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664

oh lol sorry, i must have read that wrong... ok then forget the plow truck comment then

The engine im buying is coming out the the plow truck.
Ya stuff cost money and if I dont have it then I wont do it bottom line.

I never planed on using a JY 400 crank I found a few all ready cut to size for 150.

**03blazer** · 11-05-2009, 11:38 PM

You'll need everything below and maybe a few other odds and ends. I should have re-worded what I said earlier. You can get the main parts for less than $400. The little stuff adds up. You'll probably spend another $200 or so on stuff below if you find it cheap enough. Summit sells bearings and rings pretty cheap so I'd look there.

-Stock 350 main bearings
-Stock 350 rod bearings
-Stock 350 gasket set
-Piston rings for new pistons
-400 balancer
-Machine shop to press pistons onto rods

Ty.A's82 · 11-06-2009, 12:07 AM

Check www.racingjunk.com for what you're looking for. Promise you'll find what you're looking for and then some.

01cherryreds10 · 11-06-2009, 01:28 AM

I have a set of the Speed Pro L2256 pistons, 4 valve releifs and a 9.47:1 comp. ratio. Came in a 4.030 bore and it's from a Summit magazine somewhere. Stock rods, didn't deck the block or mill the heads. Those pistons won't upset the compression of the engine. If anything, maybe bump it up a tad.

Arich0908 · 11-06-2009, 05:30 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by 01cherryreds10

I have a set of the Speed Pro L2256 pistons, 4 valve releifs and a 9.47:1 comp. ratio. Came in a 4.030 bore and it's from a Summit magazine somewhere. Stock rods, didn't deck the block or mill the heads. Those pistons won't upset the compression of the engine. If anything, maybe bump it up a tad.

Im looking for 4.000 pistons I dont want to do any machining.

Maverick2664 · 11-06-2009, 07:45 AM

you will have to do some machining, either the block or crank will need to be clearanced

neel2008 · 11-06-2009, 08:46 AM

yea not to mention, the whole motor needing balanced once your done clearanceing the block, realizing your rods are hitting about three different other parts, etc. You might as well bore .30 over as well or you'll be saying hey i have a 377 instead of hey I have a 383. 383=machine work one way or another.

Arich0908 · 11-06-2009, 09:11 AM

I new i had to machine some spots. I just dont want to bore the block out. How can i tell those pistons listed above will make it so there is enough clearance.

towb3 · 11-06-2009, 10:24 AM

Then it won't be a 383 per say. If you want a "383 stroker", the options that are able to be used have been posted. I don't know if you have built a different stroker but block work is required to make a 350 into a stroker engine. Unless you don't plan on it lasting, period.

01cherryreds10 · 11-06-2009, 11:33 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by neel2008

yea not to mention, the whole motor needing balanced once your done clearanceing the block, realizing your rods are hitting about three different other parts, etc. You might as well bore .30 over as well or you'll be saying hey i have a 377 instead of hey I have a 383. 383=machine work one way or another.

If you want a 383 the cylinders need to be bored. There's minor clearance work for the larger crank for the 383 engines too to clear the rod bolts in some areas. It seems like you want to buy parts and not do any machining work, but just take it to a machine shop and tell them exactly what you want and if it's a halfway decent shop, you'll be pleased.

Ty.A's82 · 11-06-2009, 12:50 PM

Best way to put it for what you're looking for.

Quote: Originally Posted by 01cherryreds10

If you want a 383 the cylinders need to be bored. There's minor clearance work for the larger crank for the 383 engines too to clear the rod bolts in some areas. It seems like you want to buy parts and not do any machining work, but just take it to a machine shop and tell them exactly what you want and if it's a halfway decent shop, you'll be pleased.

Arich0908 · 11-06-2009, 06:04 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 01cherryreds10

If you want a 383 the cylinders need to be bored. There's minor clearance work for the larger crank for the 383 engines too to clear the rod bolts in some areas. It seems like you want to buy parts and not do any machining work, but just take it to a machine shop and tell them exactly what you want and if it's a halfway decent shop, you'll be pleased.

I dont want a 383 then I want a 377.
I wont get the engine bored . Ill be ok Well threads over I think I found what im looking for .

Quote: Originally Posted by towb3

Then it won't be a 383 per say. If you want a "383 stroker", the options that are able to be used have been posted. I don't know if you have built a different stroker but block work is required to make a 350 into a stroker engine. Unless you don't plan on it lasting, period.

Have you built one like this and had it break or are you just saying things just to look like you know something?
Im not building a race car , I wont be towing anything . Im sure itll be just fine.

Thank you every one for the help . If I have any more ?s ill ask.
I probably wont even bother doing this. For the minimal gains and what I want it for I probably get the same results bumping the compression up.

Crew Cab Sonoma · 11-06-2009, 07:14 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by 03blazer

Found it. The stock 400 rods are 5.565". Even if you did use a 400 rod, the piston would still stick out by about .135".

no. youre thinking of the TOTAL stroke lenght, which is increased by .270"
only HALF of that is seen at TDC. .135"... the other .135" is seen at BDC....
so a 3.75" inch stroke crank using 400 5.565" rods and regular 350 pistons
results in an identical compression height as a stock 350...

one other thing i should mention, is that many factory, and some aftermarket
pistons will have skirt-to-crankshaft counterweight interference at BDC.

these pistons will have to either have their skirts "clearanced" to prevent
hitting the crank counterweights at BDC, or be replaced with an aftermarket
350 piston that already has a "notched" skirt for clearance in strokers.
many aftermarket 350 pistons have this feature, but not all do, so always
check this clearance during a "mockup" assembly, which is always highly
recomended when building a stroker...

Crew Cab Sonoma · 11-06-2009, 07:35 PM

also, rod agularity is basically a non-issue in a mild
to moderate street engine. the whole "it'll wear
your bores out alot faster" talk is just a bunch
of silly nonsense.

the increased rod angularity from using 400 rods
in a stroker build creates only a tiny increase
in bore wear compared to using 5.7" rods..

if a 5.7" rod equipped 383 wore its bores out
in 100,000 miles, a 5.565" rod equipped 383
otherwise built and operated identically, might
wear its bores out in 99,000 miles...

towb3 · 11-06-2009, 09:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Arich0908

Have you built one like this and had it break or are you just saying things just to look like you know something?
Im not building a race car , I wont be towing anything . Im sure itll be just fine.

.

No, I haven't. We have gone the proper way of doing this build. Find sombody with a spare 400 crank and a 350 block, place the crank in position and try and spin crank. You have asked for an opinion on how to do this, and many have given proper responses or alternatives. They have covered almost every option you could use, but you are set in doing it your way. Just tossing a 400 crank in to a 350 doesn't work, and a stroker crank will need a bit of work still and balancing is required as well. Using a file at home is not going to be suitable for this type of build.

Trying to look like I know something? No, personal experience getting passed on to somebody who thinks he knows it all.

SH-60B · 11-06-2009, 09:44 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by towb3

No, I haven't. We have gone the proper way of doing this build. Find sombody with a spare 400 crank and a 350 block, place the crank in position and try and spin crank. You have asked for an opinion on how to do this, and many have given proper responses or alternatives. They have covered almost every option you could use, but you are set in doing it your way. Just tossing a 400 crank in to a 350 doesn't work, and a stroker crank will need a bit of work still and balancing is required as well. Using a file at home is not going to be suitable for this type of build.

Trying to look like I know something? No, personal experience getting passed on to somebody who thinks he knows it all.

Well put! Do whatever you want Arich0908, I don't care anymore either.

11-05-2009, 02:22 PM	#1
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	To make a cheap 383 Can I just take a new stroker crankshaft and add it to an existing stock assembly? The motor ill be getting Came out of a running 87 blazer 4wd plow truck. 4 bolt main 43k. I just simply want to buy a new stroker crank and through it in. Im not out to make allot of hp an little more HP would be nice but I guess im asking is can it be done with no neg effects?
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11-05-2009, 02:34 PM	#2
neel2008 Custom User Title Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,946 Location: Huntington, Indiana User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 dont quote me but i believe if u can get ahold of a 400 "cheap" from a junkyard or something, and rob the crank and rods out of it and have a buddy who will do cheap machine shop work cut down the journals on the 400 crank to fit ur 350 bearings, u might have a somewhat "cheap" 383 in the end.
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11-05-2009, 02:47 PM	#3
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Why cant I take my stock crankshaft out and bolt this one in? Before I do the motor swap?
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11-05-2009, 02:59 PM	#4
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sbc-S...fAcce ssories
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11-05-2009, 03:06 PM	#5
neel2008 Custom User Title Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,946 Location: Huntington, Indiana User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 holy shit, not if i buy it first!! thats frekin cheap as hell. I cant find anything wrong with it and he's a power seller, 140 bucks plus 25 shipping for me is a frekin steal.
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11-05-2009, 03:47 PM	#6
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Dude your broke go away lol There are a ton on ebay so. Can I remove the stock one out the 350 and replace it with one like this? Last edited by Arich0908 : 11-05-2009 at 03:49 PM.
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11-05-2009, 04:06 PM	#7
03blazer Gettin' ready for V8! Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 405 Location: Gulfport, MS User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 You can keep your stock rods. You'll need new pistons. The stroker crank is .27" longer than the stock 350 crank so your stock pistons would stick over a quarter inch out of the bore.
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11-05-2009, 04:09 PM	#8
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Or I can get shorter rods correct. Whats easier?
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11-05-2009, 04:12 PM	#9
03blazer Gettin' ready for V8! Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 405 Location: Gulfport, MS User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 No, building a 383 requires special pistons regardless. The stock rods for a 350 only came in 2 lengths, 5.7" and 6", each of which require special pistons. If you're going to build a stroker, don't half ass it. I'm sure you can find the pistons fairly cheap on ebay as well... I don't know if I would trust them... but I'm sure they're there.
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11-05-2009, 04:40 PM	#10
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Im not half assing anything if it fits and it work that's the correct way. Thats what im trying to achieve. Why would I want to build something half as , just because I dont want to put the best and most costly parts in a block dose not mean its half assed. All it means in my eyes is I dont care bought every drop of horse power. Its not a concern for me. I need help not negativity. Ill look into the pistons thanks.
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11-05-2009, 04:53 PM	#11
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 I can find plenty at a decent price but they all are over bored none standard. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...kw=383+pistons
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11-05-2009, 04:57 PM	#12
03blazer Gettin' ready for V8! Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 405 Location: Gulfport, MS User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 That's because to build a 383, the block has to be bored .030". Otherwise it will come out to 377ci.
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11-05-2009, 05:41 PM	#13
Crew Cab Sonoma not low, not gonna be... Age: 43 Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 5,129 Location: Chattanooga, TN User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by 03blazer No, building a 383 requires special pistons regardless. The stock rods for a 350 only came in 2 lengths, 5.7" and 6", each of which require special pistons. If you're going to build a stroker, don't half ass it. I'm sure you can find the pistons fairly cheap on ebay as well... I don't know if I would trust them... but I'm sure they're there. 400 rods will allow you to use std. 350 pistons. some minor clearancing at the bottom of the cylinder bore/oil pan rail area of the block is usually required, regardless of which rrod is used. and of course, a balancing job is highly recomended. you will likely need a 400 style hormonic damper, and a properly counter weighted flywheel/flexplate as well.
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11-05-2009, 06:08 PM	#14
03blazer Gettin' ready for V8! Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 405 Location: Gulfport, MS User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Hmm... how long are the stock 400 rods? Even then, it still wouldn't be a 383... Last edited by 03blazer : 11-05-2009 at 06:11 PM.
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11-05-2009, 06:30 PM	#15
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Are the 400 rods smaller than the 350 rods. And yes what size rods does the 400 use?
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11-05-2009, 07:05 PM	#16
03blazer Gettin' ready for V8! Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 405 Location: Gulfport, MS User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Found it. The stock 400 rods are 5.565". Even if you did use a 400 rod, the piston would still stick out by about .135".
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11-05-2009, 07:09 PM	#17
wayfastwhitey Ross Racing Engines Age: 34 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,384 Location: Aggieland, College Station, Tx User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 The longer the rod you use, the happier the engine will be. DO NOT use the stock 400 rods. At least keep the 5.7 rods. There is no way around buying new pistons. You can get a set of Speed Pro hypereutectic slugs for about $250. Short rods lead to higher angularity and increase piston/cylinder wear.
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11-05-2009, 07:50 PM	#18
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Wiki says http://site1.wikianswers.com/templat..._a.gif?v=57306 The small block 350 uses a smaller main bearing diameter than the Small block 400. To run a 400 crank in a 350 the crank must be "turned" down at a machine shop to fit the 350 bearing diameters. You also will need to use special pistons with the correct compression height for the 350 IF you are using the 5.7 inch 350 connecting rods. If you use the 5.565 inch 400 connecting rods , then you can use regular 350 pistons. The longer stroke 400 crank also requires that you provide additional clearance inside the block, by grinding notches to eliminate the crank hitting the block and other parts. Finally, the entire engine must be re-balanced to make sure that the engine does not vibrate. The 400 is externally balanced and the 350 is internally balenced so you need to use 400 flywheel and 400 harmonic balancer. Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey The longer the rod you use, the happier the engine will be. DO NOT use the stock 400 rods. At least keep the 5.7 rods. There is no way around buying new pistons. You can get a set of Speed Pro hypereutectic slugs for about $250. Short rods lead to higher angularity and increase piston/cylinder wear. Can you show me a link to these slugs? Last edited by Arich0908 : 11-05-2009 at 07:51 PM.
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11-05-2009, 08:35 PM	#19
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Here is a -Odd_ post I found. -The Stig- 07-14-2002, 01:55 AM a 400 Crank in a 350 block gives you a 383 a 350 Crank in a 400 block gives you a 377. Why would you want to do that? Well as we may or may not know, a 327 is a high reving engine. a 377 is basically a 327 but with more Cubes... i.e. more grunt. Same way the 400 is like a 350... just has more grunt to be had. I could be wrong... then again What do I know... I drive a Nova. Know what also sucks? I have a large stack of Car Mags... one of them... has an article on odd ball strokers. It would of been handy, I could of given you more info. But Murphy's Law would have it... I cant find the darned thing. RedNeck "What do I know... I drive a Nova." - Me I just want to bolt a few cheap peices toghter can some one tell me what ill need? please Last edited by Arich0908 : 11-05-2009 at 08:37 PM.
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11-05-2009, 08:50 PM	#20
wayfastwhitey Ross Racing Engines Age: 34 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,384 Location: Aggieland, College Station, Tx User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 ok, they're $310...but close enough. You can find them cheaper if you look. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UE...n/?prefilter=1
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11-05-2009, 08:51 PM	#21
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 I cant see why I would need pistons and not smaller rods. well i found these but I dont see how they would offer a solution to my problem. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-S...item2302f8d4fa
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11-05-2009, 08:52 PM	#22
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey ok, they're $310...but close enough. You can find them cheaper if you look. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UE...n/?prefilter=1 Why would those fix my problem? I mean how? Why cant I use my stock pistons and use 400 rods?Like it says to do every where else. Last edited by Arich0908 : 11-05-2009 at 08:55 PM.
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11-05-2009, 08:53 PM	#23
wayfastwhitey Ross Racing Engines Age: 34 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,384 Location: Aggieland, College Station, Tx User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey ok, they're $310...but close enough. You can find them cheaper if you look. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UE...n/?prefilter=1 Remember, when building an engine, there is a HUGE difference between which parts you CAN use and those you SHOULD use. Also, I would NEVER clearance the block for a 400 crank. Spend a little extra and have the counterbalance throws on the crank turned down for clearance. I'm dealing with that situation right now where a customer clearanced the block. He threw a rod through the side of the cylinder and now, instead of $75 to install a standard sleeve, he's looking at almost $200 for a flanged sleeve to make the repair. All because he clearanced all the material at the bottom of the cylinder which would normally support the standard sleeve. Last edited by wayfastwhitey : 11-05-2009 at 08:58 PM.
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11-05-2009, 09:01 PM	#24
wayfastwhitey Ross Racing Engines Age: 34 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,384 Location: Aggieland, College Station, Tx User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by Arich0908 Why would those fix my problem? I mean how? Why cant I use my stock pistons and use 400 rods?Like it says to do every where else. You are welcomed to build this however you like, but the shorter 400 rods will cause as severe angle in relation to the cylinder. This will lead to excessive piston skirt wear and excessive cylinder wear. It's a matter of longevity.
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11-05-2009, 09:27 PM	#25
mabru Registered User Age: 36 Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 464 Location: Grande Prairie AB User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 I'm currently in the process of building a 383 myself, block is at the machine shop now. Just read this article and its pretty informative http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm
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11-05-2009, 09:35 PM	#26
66Mustang HP > bags Age: 22 Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 372 Location: Athens, OH User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey You are welcomed to build this however you like, but the shorter 400 rods will cause as severe angle in relation to the cylinder. This will lead to excessive piston skirt wear and excessive cylinder wear. It's a matter of longevity. Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise...
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11-05-2009, 09:48 PM	#27
Maverick2664 Heavy Metal Body Man Age: 25 Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 3,133 Location: Erie PA User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by 66Mustang Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise... its a proven fact that when you use a longer rod, it reduces the angle that the rod enters the cylinder which reduces the piston skirt pressure, that means less friction, and less friction means more power, and faster and higher revs rod ratio is not bs
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11-05-2009, 09:50 PM	#28
556mm &amp;lt;3 redheads Age: 27 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 26,126 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by 66Mustang Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise... you have a mustang gtfo.
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11-05-2009, 09:51 PM	#29
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey Remember, when building an engine, there is a HUGE difference between which parts you CAN use and those you SHOULD use. Also, I would NEVER clearance the block for a 400 crank. Spend a little extra and have the counterbalance throws on the crank turned down for clearance. I'm dealing with that situation right now where a customer clearanced the block. He threw a rod through the side of the cylinder and now, instead of $75 to install a standard sleeve, he's looking at almost $200 for a flanged sleeve to make the repair. All because he clearanced all the material at the bottom of the cylinder which would normally support the standard sleeve. I understand what your saying and thanks for the heads up, But If I choose to keep the stock pistons I can use 5.565 rods and ill have a runner no? Quote: Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey You are welcomed to build this however you like, but the shorter 400 rods will cause as severe angle in relation to the cylinder. This will lead to excessive piston skirt wear and excessive cylinder wear. It's a matter of longevity. I hear ya on that and this will be driven daily some that is a big factor thank you. Quote: Originally Posted by mabru I'm currently in the process of building a 383 myself, block is at the machine shop now. Just read this article and its pretty informative http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm Thanks ill read into it. Quote: Originally Posted by 66Mustang Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise... Im not building nothing high HP I dont even wish to have bullet proof internals. Im just trying to add a little hp by upping the displacement a very cheap way. I didnt realize this was the unanswerable ? of taboo in the s10 forum. Every one here thinks because some one is modding something its going to do wheelies down the track!!
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11-05-2009, 10:11 PM	#30
SH-60B Registered Neanderthal Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 2,743 Location: Meriden/CT/USA User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by 66Mustang Not rod ratio BS again!! I hate to tell you but a lot of OEM engine have piss poor rod ratios.... Maybe it would matter if it was a top fuel motor or you were trying to get sneaky with it but otherwise... There are a few good reasons to run a longer rod besides the sidewall loading and friction. A longer rod slows the piston approaching and leaving TDC so the piston changes direction more gradually, it's easier on the rod caps. They also keep the piston at TDC longer so you can run a little less advance. If you're going to get new or re-built rods anyway, get longer ones.
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11-05-2009, 10:11 PM	#31
03blazer Gettin' ready for V8! Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 405 Location: Gulfport, MS User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Here are some links to the parts it would take to build what you're wanting. It can be done easily for under $400. You can keep your stock 350 (5.7") rods. It won't actually be a 383 unless you bored the block .030" over. If you're not wanting to bore the block, the parts you need are listed below. You'll need the balancer from a 400 and all the new rod/main bearings and gaskets. Eagle Crankshaft http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-103503750/ Summit Pistons http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-17383-00/
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11-05-2009, 10:16 PM	#32
Maverick2664 Heavy Metal Body Man Age: 25 Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 3,133 Location: Erie PA User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 to arich: why dont you just buy a stroker kit, i built a 383 "on the cheap" about 7 years ago, the kit i bought was $500, came with a crank, rods, pistons, and rings... which anyway you cut it is going to be the cheapest youll get a 383 lets run some numbers real quick, say you find a 400 crank from a yard, youll still need to have it turned down to fit the 350 journals, and youll still need to find rods and pistons, which you will have to buy new, unless the rods are full floating (which you wont find in a junkyard) you cant really reuse them, once a pin has been installed thats about it, its too stretched to take out and put a new piston on with the clamping force that it needs to keep the pin in place... costs: a few hundred in machining to both the block and crank, $300+ in new pistons, and a few more hundred in rods or, buy a new "stroker" crank, but again, youll still need rods and 383 pistons, and youll still need machine work done to the block or you can try to get a usable set of 400 rods, but you still wouldnt be able to use the pistons you already have, and of course you would still have to buy the crank, have machine work done to the block, and this time have to have custom pistons made because you are using a screwy rod length, which i can only assume is big dollars bottom line: there is no "cheap stroker" no matter what you do, youre still going to have to throw down $700+... and for a plow truck? i wouldnt even bother
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11-05-2009, 10:20 PM	#33
03blazer Gettin' ready for V8! Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 405 Location: Gulfport, MS User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Just FYI, he said it came out of a plow truck... didn't say it was going in one...
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11-05-2009, 10:28 PM	#34
Maverick2664 Heavy Metal Body Man Age: 25 Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 3,133 Location: Erie PA User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 oh lol sorry, i must have read that wrong... ok then forget the plow truck comment then
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11-05-2009, 10:41 PM	#35
Arich0908 Registered User Age: 30 Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 65 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: To make a cheap 383 Quote: Originally Posted by 03blazer Here are some links to the parts it would take to build what you're wanting. It can be done easily for under $400. You can keep your stock 350 (5.7") rods. It won't actually be a 383 unless you bored the block .030" over. If you're not wanting to bore the block, the parts you need are listed below. You'll need the balancer from a 400 and all the new rod/main bearings and gaskets. Eagle Crankshaft http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-103503750/ Summit Pistons http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-17383-00/ This is what ill be buying thank you. Im sure I can notch the relifs my self. Ive done it with 2 stroke motors I have built . This should give it the wake up and pep im looking for. Will this raise my compression ratio? I will be able to keep the stock rods with the kit but I should buy new bearings for the rods though correct while im down there? Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664 to arich: why dont you just buy a stroker kit, i built a 383 "on the cheap" about 7 years ago, the kit i bought was $500, came with a crank, rods, pistons, and rings... which anyway you cut it is going to be the cheapest youll get a 383 lets run some numbers real quick, say you find a 400 crank from a yard, youll still need to have it turned down to fit the 350 journals, and youll still need to find rods and pistons, which you will have to buy new, unless the rods are full floating (which you wont find in a junkyard) you cant really reuse them, once a pin has been installed thats about it, its too stretched to take out and put a new piston on with the clamping force that it needs to keep the pin in place... costs: a few hundred in machining to both the block and crank, $300+ in new pistons, and a few more hundred in rods or, buy a new "stroker" crank, but again, youll still need rods and 383 pistons, and youll still need machine work done to the block or you can try to get a usable set of 400 rods, but you still wouldnt be able to use the pistons you already have, and of course you would still have to buy the crank, have machine work done to the block, and this time have to have custom pistons made because you are using a screwy rod length, which i can only assume is big dollars bottom line: there is no "cheap stroker" no matter what you do, youre still going to have to throw down $700+... and for a plow truck? i wouldnt even bother Quote: Originally Posted by Maverick2664 oh lol sorry, i must have read that wrong... ok then forget the plow truck comment then The engine im buying is coming out the the plow truck. Ya stuff cost money and if I dont have it then I wont do it bottom line. I never planed on using a JY 400 crank I found a few all ready cut to size for 150.
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