Spend my money...

[confortar1]

On an implulse I bought a set of AFR 195cc SBC Eliminator Street Cylinder Heads (75cc) and then came across a good deal on a 6-71 blower. My current motor will not handle both of these so...any input on how my new short block should be built??? Streetability is a non issue this truck does not see much of the street to begin with, but would like to keep it on pump gas (91 Octane). As far as behind the motor I run a built 400 trans and a Currie rear with 4:10s. Would like a consistant low 11 (or better) truck.

[Paint Guy]

I suggest you use the blower with some low compression forged dish pistons and then donate the heads to some guy like me who is building a normally aspirated 350 on a shoestring budget.

[NotaDime]

Quote: Originally Posted by Paint Guy

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^^^ paint toad wannabe!

[Mr.woodscrewsNbondo]

prove yourself paintguy

[NotaDime]

toad will be here shortly to prove him wrong........

[PrettyRicky]

taking a 6-71 and running on pump gas is beyond easy. i've mapped out plenty of budget combos for blown sbc's that were running on pump gas w/ a hydraulic cam, and made pretty impressive power.

as for your bottom end, if you don't feel like spending the bucks on a forged bottom end its quite easy and not all that expensive to beef up your current one. simply take your crank and rods, have the casting lines removed, and have them shot peened, then you can also have your crank either chrome dipped or nitride dipped . a good set of hypereutectic speed pro flat top pistons(pn-88-h345np) w/ 4 valve reliefs that'll set your compression around 8.5:1. use a good set of molly rings and set ur gaps right(i believe .021 for the top ring and .024 for the bottom, or something like that) and you should be fine. i built that exact short block when i was building a procharged trans am. now that set up is being hit w/ a constant 250 shot of n2o and its still holding up.

w/ your heads, that short block and a simple 292xfi h13 hydralic comp cam, u'd see mid 600 hp @ around 7k rpm and mid 500ft lbs @ around 5000ish. if you were to spend the extra money and go w/ the solid roller blower cam that they have(300br-14) you'd see high 600-low 700hp(depending on exhaust) easily and right at 600ft lbs around 5000rpm. both of those readings are on pump gas, using only a 10rib pulley. that'd easily sit of off in the 11's if not a high 10 depending on how much the truck weighs and how good it hooks

[Paint Guy]

Quote: Originally Posted by dustin42069

prove yourself paintguy

Sorry, Boss, I don't understand what you are saying. Prove what?

[Paint Guy]

Quote: Originally Posted by PrettyRicky

.... a good set of hypereutectic speed pro flat top pistons(pn-88-h345np) w/ 4 valve reliefs that'll set your compression around 8.5:1. ....
w/ your heads, that short block and a simple 292xfi h13 hydralic comp cam, u'd see mid 600 hp @ around 7k rpm and mid 500ft lbs @ around 5000ish. if you were to spend the extra money and go w/ the solid roller blower cam that they have(300br-14) you'd see high 600-low 700hp(depending on exhaust) easily and right at 600ft lbs around 5000rpm. both of those readings are on pump gas, using only a 10rib pulley. that'd easily sit of off in the 11's if not a high 10 depending on how much the truck weighs and how good it hooks

I think to put 700HP to Hypereutectic pistons would be "Livin' on the Edge", as Steven Tyler might say. But that's great if it worked for you.

[NotaDime]

you will soon know EXACTLLY what he means.......

there is a GOD on here that knows EVERYTHING........................................

[Chevhead89]

you've got plenty of money in the top of this thing. just do it right and build yourself a complete forged bottom with H beam rods. throw some ARP main studs to it and have a good bottom end u wont have to worry about. because all it takes is one small pre ignition and BOOM everything goes bye bye. and hell while your at it just make it a 383.

[Paint Guy]

Quote: Originally Posted by NotaDime

you will soon know EXACTLLY what he means.......

there is a GOD on here that knows EVERYTHING........................................

Hmmm. That's very good. I hope this "god" can tell me which pitman arm to use when retrofitting a pre-94 manual steering box to a 96 s10. So far, there seem to be no takers on that one.
I still think that hypereutectic pistons on a roots-blown engine is a mistake. I hope "god" agrees. But really, I gave up on the idea of "proving myself" about 20 years ago...about the time you were born, maybe.

Now, go outside and play,and let the grown-ups talk.

[confortar1]

Im due for a new block my current one is already on its last rebuild, so should I pick up a junk yard block and take it to a machine shop or go with an aftermarket block and go for more cubes? Opinions? Also the truck weighs 3100lbs with me in it and hooks decent for what it is. If possible could someone give me a complete break down of parts for a short block. I have never ran a blower motor before and Im told its a whole different ball game?

[Chevhead89]

good forged crank. eagle scat. callies. ohio crank. the lighter the better. i dont know how much power you want to spin through it... but theres quite a few out there.
good H beam rods like OLIVER or somethin equivelant wtih ARP bolts. quality forged pistons. SRP, JE, ROSS, MAHLE, PROBE. those are about the best out right now.
good bearings. like a coated H series Clevite.
stud anything and everything.
go with an aftermarket block if its in the budget. i mean why stop at 383 a 434 would do real well.

[confortar1]

What do you think about a Dart little M block, and are there any other options for aftermarket blocks?

[jarrodh]

id suggest using the dart shp block.. their pretty strong, alot of guys here use them for race motors in their oval cars..

[Chevhead89]

world makes a damn nice block to. The bowties are pretty decent but i would either go with the Motown 2 race block or the Iron Eagle block. but if u wanna be fancy grab u an aluminum block and make a super light weight engine up front.