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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4
Location: User is: OffLine |
Fiberglass body parts
I'm starting a new project and have a few questions. Building a S-10 with a 406 powerplant. So far I have 96 SS S-10 rolling chassis, a clean 87 cab, and a complete 406. This is going to be a strip truck so I'm looking to ditch some weight. I'm to the point of putting the cab on the chassis to start the frame mods (tubbing) and full cage. The rear is going to be a 4-link so the frame rails will be higher than normal. I don't plan on having a floor in the bed, only bedsides. This leads to question number one; where can I find first gen fiberglass bedsides? I found a few second gen sets but I already have a first gen cab. The front end isn't a problem, I have found alot of options for it. Second question; would I be better off using steel bedsides for a little added weight in the rear? I want to at least get a look at what I plan to use so I can start thinking about how to mount them as I build the chassis. Thanks for any help. BTW nice site!
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#2 |
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Former S10 enthusiast
Age: 19
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,640
Location: Illinois User is: OffLine |
Re: Fiberglass body parts
I would say yes on the metal bedsides in the back just to add a little more weight back there. The main problem I see is just not enough weight on the rear and the truck wouldn't hook. Got any pics?
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#3 |
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1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 301
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Fiberglass body parts
With the 4 link getting the truck to hook will not be a problem. I have all steel body panels, with a fiberglass hood, the truck weighs in at 2650 with out me in it. I did back half the truck with 2x3 square tubing and a ladderbar coil over setup. the trans cross member is heavy wall 1in square tubing and the frame is boxed for strength. I also have a 10 point cage installed. One way to remove around 50 lbs is to install tubular control arms and notch the front cross member. 1st gens are pretty light. Also mount the fuel cell over the rear and the battery as far back as possible for weight transfer. Here are a few pics of frame. Truck runs mid 9's with no problem hooking.
Stock frame ![]() starting new frame ![]() with ladder bars installed. ![]() Front end mod ![]() |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Fiberglass body parts
Looks like a fun project. Make sure to post some pics once it's complete.
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#5 |
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1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 301
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Fiberglass body parts
Are u refering to my "project? it runs and is done. I posted the pics for cjaholic
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Fiberglass body parts
Bgblock427: Thanks for the pics, I like how you did the front crossmember. I have been thinking on what to do with mine, need space for a larger oilpan and don't want to do a whole front end. Looks like you only move the rear frame in about 4"s, what size tire you running? I am going to run tube front control arms for sure, strength being my reason but the reduced weight is always a plus. The reason I went with the SS chassis is because it's boxed past the rear of the cab fron the factory, and it was cheap, $100 rolling chassis w/ all steering.
01cherryreds10: I can get some pics but it isn't much to look at right now. Basically just getting started. Will be around the holidays or shortly after before I can really get into it. |
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#7 |
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1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 301
Location: User is: OffLine |
Re: Fiberglass body parts
Its moved in 6 inches on each side and I run a 29x 12.5 et drag. There are some better picks that people have done on s10dragracer. Most cut out the whole center put .25 plates on the ends and install a piece of 1.25 heavy wall tubing between the 2 halves.
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