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Old 10-18-2009, 01:33 AM   #1
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block for 400

Hey whats goin on..what does a 350 block go for???? this guy said he has a block for sale that he claims it been blue printed an balanced an to boot its been bored .30 over...he wants 400 for it..i was wanting some advice maby the green light to buy it.

How much is it to get that work done?

is it worth it?

im forsurly goin to be askin for the recipts for the work forsure..
Old 10-18-2009, 01:46 AM   #2
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Re: block for 400

this is buddy words about the motor "an as for motors i got just a block that has been bored 30 over an blue printed an balance tank diped"
Old 10-19-2009, 01:12 AM   #3
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Re: block for 400

costs $700 to a $1000 to totally square up a block. thats line bore, surface deck, square trans flange to crank center, index lifter bores, bore and hone. sounds like all your getting is a cleaned, bored and honed block which would be about right.
Old 10-19-2009, 04:57 AM   #4
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Re: block for 400

I doubt it has all that done to it. Probably has just been cleaned up and bored .030 over, and maybe a quick align hone or trueing of the deck.

Does it come with a crank? There isnt a way to balance a block.

Since its blueprinted, ask for the paperwork. Blueprinting involves detailed work that requires lots of note taking.

Last edited by SweetS10V8 : 10-19-2009 at 04:58 AM.
Old 10-19-2009, 07:17 PM   #5
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Re: block for 400

so its a shortblock? because you cant balance and blueprint a bare block, you need a rotating assembly to do that

if its a shortblock, thats a good deal, if its just a bare block with some machining, its not a "deal" but youre also not getting ripped off, that about what youre going to pay for a block and machine work done
Old 10-23-2009, 04:29 PM   #6
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Re: block for 400

Isn't it best when boring a block to have the pistons you're going to use on hand for proper fit? I know you can hone to fit for clearance and that the tolerance varies from one piston type to another...

Does sound like a bare block, probably been stripped, tanked, bored etc but I doubt much beyond that, quality machine work isn't cheap...

Make sure you have a machine shop check everything before you do any assembly work, don't assume it's as stated. A friend of mine bought a crank from an automotive machine shop for his 454. No one checked the journal dimensions, assumed it was a .020/.020 regrind as stated. He assembled it without checking clearance and it took a major crap by the time he'd run it 20 minutes breaking in his new cam...

When I asked him how his oil pressure was he said it seemed low, especially for a new oil pump. Then I said, "you DID check the rod and main journal clearance with Plastigage didn't you?" His reply, "Negative, I was in a hurry to get it back together..." He pulled it down and discovered it was a 30/30 regrind... mis-tagged.

Checking it with a mic at the machine shop would've taken a minute or so and saved him alot of time and money. Checking it himself with plastigage would've avoided a disaster... ALWAYS check!

Mike

Last edited by Black P-38 : 10-23-2009 at 04:33 PM.
Old 10-25-2009, 11:08 AM   #7
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Re: block for 400

Quote: Originally Posted by Black P-38
assumed it was a .020/.020 regrind as stated. He assembled it without checking clearance and it took a major crap by the time he'd run it 20 minutes breaking in his new cam...

When I asked him how his oil pressure was he said it seemed low, especially for a new oil pump. Then I said, "you DID check the rod and main journal clearance with Plastigage didn't you?" His reply, "Negative, I was in a hurry to get it back together..." He pulled it down and discovered it was a 30/30 regrind... mis-tagged.
Wow, thats inexusable!!!


You cant build an engine and not check clearances.....



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