attn, engine guys..

jarrodh · 08-06-2008, 12:28 AM

hey, a question for you motor gurus..

i got a 355 that i built for my s10, and i may be talkin it out and putin a smaler cam into it, for more of a daily driver..

what i got now is comp cams, prt#12-250-3 http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=and the one i want to put in is prt# 12-242-2 http://www.compperformancegroupstore...&Category_Code=..

according to the free comp cams computer dyno, i should pick up almost 30ftlbs at 4000, and only loose 1 hp at 6000.. so my questionis how accurate do you think that program is assuming i typed everything in write? and would you recommend installin the cam at +4 deg advanced?? as i herd that will bring the powerband down a bit it the rpm range?? is this true??

thanks again, motor specs in my sig..

Formulakid1 · 08-06-2008, 01:43 AM

I don't know about the simulation program.....but I think that would be an excellent choice for a good hot street motor like yours.

You might even consider the XE274, pn 12-246-3, if you have about a 2500 stall.

dre0227 · 08-06-2008, 03:09 PM

I thought most of the cams these days already came degreed so you shouldnt have to degree it?? anybody know the if this is true

Formulakid1 · 08-06-2008, 03:43 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by dre0227

I thought most of the cams these days already came degreed so you shouldnt have to degree it?? anybody know the if this is true

These cams come with 4 degrees of advance in them....so in theroy....you should be able to just throw it in dot to dot.

But in the real world we have production tolerances.

These will be in the crank shaft key way, timing set and cams....and when they all stack up....who knows where you are.

jarrodh · 08-07-2008, 03:44 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1

These cams come with 4 degrees of advance in them....so in theroy....you should be able to just throw it in dot to dot.

well then, i have my cam thats currently in my motor installed at +8..

if its already got +4 ground in, and i installed it at +4 on the timing set..lol

do you guys thing it would be worth it to go with a hydrolic roller?? like this one??
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...&Category_Code=

Formulakid1 · 08-07-2008, 02:01 PM

If you can afford to go with a roller, then yes....it is the only way to go IMO.

Look at 12-423-8 or maybe 12-423-8.

***SweetS10V8*** · 08-08-2008, 08:53 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1

If you can afford to go with a roller, then yes....it is the only way to go IMO.

Look at 12-423-8 or maybe 12-423-8.

I agree a roller is the only way to go. IF for any reason you loose a lobe, you have to think of the time and money it will cost you just to replace it with another flat tappet that could possibly go flat again.

Just spend the money up front and get a roller..... more power...more reliable. If you absolutely cant afford the roller, call Comp and have them nitride your new flat tappet camshaft.

jakethegriff · 08-08-2008, 12:12 PM

do you have to modify the valley in order for a roller to work on pre 85' small blocks?

Deeze49686 · 08-08-2008, 12:17 PM

i wonder, you have 1.6 ratio rockers?

bgblock427 · 08-08-2008, 03:38 PM

no

Quote: Originally Posted by jakethegriff

do you have to modify the valley in order for a roller to work on pre 85' small blocks?

jakethegriff · 08-08-2008, 03:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427

no

ok, i thought i had read somewhere that the valley or lifter slots had to be modified in order to run a roller set-up, i stand corrected

bgblock427 · 08-08-2008, 03:45 PM

Roller cams do make more power, but when one goes its expensive to repair. I just had a roller lifter break and it cost $1200 to repair. Had to replace the lifters, cam, oil pump, gaskets, have the block checked, cleaned and honed. And I caught it before it did serious damage. Parts were about 6 months old and had 30 runs on it. I have always ran a roller valve train and have had 2 break in 10 yrs, so they are reliable most of the time, hey I have a bent one if you in the market!

Formulakid1 · 08-08-2008, 07:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427

Roller cams do make more power, but when one goes its expensive to repair. I just had a roller lifter break and it cost $1200 to repair. Had to replace the lifters, cam, oil pump, gaskets, have the block checked, cleaned and honed. And I caught it before it did serious damage. Parts were about 6 months old and had 30 runs on it. I have always ran a roller valve train and have had 2 break in 10 yrs, so they are reliable most of the time, hey I have a bent one if you in the market!

But if it was a FT that went flat....you would still need to do all of that plus it'll most likely take out the bearings when it pumps all of the metal shavings through the motor in the oil.

bgblock427 · 08-08-2008, 07:21 PM

When the roller went the lifter actually slid down the lifter bore and stopped the cam by hitting the side of the lobe, If i would have been anywhere but on the return rd it would have cracked the block. I was only doing about 5 mph, dragged the slicks about 3 ft. It pumped shavings all through the engine, the oil pressure sending tube was clogged. Scarry when you realize a couple minutes before it was going 131mph.LOL Truck is back together, going to run a MNRA race with it in 2 weeks, see what the nitrous will do (untested 250 shot). I have to recomend king bearings, the crank and rods were still perfect, just had to give the crank a light polish.

Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1

But if it was a FT that went flat....you would still need to do all of that plus it'll most likely take out the bearings when it pumps all of the metal shavings through the motor in the oil.

Formulakid1 · 08-08-2008, 09:17 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427

When the roller went the lifter actually slid down the lifter bore and stopped the cam by hitting the side of the lobe, If i would have been anywhere but on the return rd it would have cracked the block. I was only doing about 5 mph, dragged the slicks about 3 ft. It pumped shavings all through the engine, the oil pressure sending tube was clogged. Scarry when you realize a couple minutes before it was going 131mph.LOL Truck is back together, going to run a MNRA race with it in 2 weeks, see what the nitrous will do (untested 250 shot). I have to recomend king bearings, the crank and rods were still perfect, just had to give the crank a light polish.

Do you have a stick in the truck?

Trying to figure out why the rear wheels locked up when the motor died?

bgblock427 · 08-09-2008, 01:00 AM

That makes 2 of us, so far i only found the broken lifter. I sent the trans to coan to get inspected, they didnt find anything wrong. Going to check the 3dr member this weekend. My brother was driving so I really dont know why it locked but it did.

Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1

Do you have a stick in the truck?

Trying to figure out why the rear wheels locked up when the motor died?

jarrodh · 08-09-2008, 02:17 AM

k, for a roller cam do you have to get special valve springs for a roller??

i really dont want to spend another 100+ on new springs when the ones i have only have about 300km on them..lol, im not shure what springs i have, but i do know that they/heads are good to 575 lift, and i have turned 6700 and wasnt floatin valves yet..

i also ordered/paid for some headman long tube headers prt#69490, and everyone says that they fit good, but mine fit like shit, took me almost 2 hours just to get the main pass side tube/collector in the truck, just to find that i cant get the flange to meet up square with the head.. f****.. now i got a torn apart engine bay, a scratched up set of 425$ headers that dont fit, and a another 3-4 hours to put it all back together.. sometimes i hate v8 s10's.. whats the best way to put in the 2.8 frame motor mounts without havin to drop the lca, snake my extensions through the frame..??

bgblock427 · 08-09-2008, 11:21 AM

Are you looking at a hyd roller or a solid roller? I didnt look up the P/N's your looking at. Its not so much the max lift of the springs. with a roller you need to match the recomended seat pressure and installed height you need for the
cam. Most solid rollers need around 240 on the seat. I know for a .650-.670 lift can you will need a installed height of around 1.950. That in most cases means valves that are +.100. What springs do you run now? This is all speculation at the moment without looking at what you have right now.

Quote: Originally Posted by jarrodh

k, for a roller cam do you have to get special valve springs for a roller??

i really dont want to spend another 100+ on new springs when the ones i have only have about 300km on them..lol, im not shure what springs i have, but i do know that they/heads are good to 575 lift, and i have turned 6700 and wasnt floatin valves yet..

i also ordered/paid for some headman long tube headers prt#69490, and everyone says that they fit good, but mine fit like shit, took me almost 2 hours just to get the main pass side tube/collector in the truck, just to find that i cant get the flange to meet up square with the head.. f****.. now i got a torn apart engine bay, a scratched up set of 425$ headers that dont fit, and a another 3-4 hours to put it all back together.. sometimes i hate v8 s10's.. whats the best way to put in the 2.8 frame motor mounts without havin to drop the lca, snake my extensions through the frame..??

bgblock427 · 08-09-2008, 11:34 AM

OK I looked up the cams you were looking at. Check out these, better prices, usa made.
They also have comp cams

http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...s.asp?dept=330

Formulakid1 · 08-09-2008, 11:52 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427

OK I looked up the cams you were looking at. Check out these, better prices, usa made.
They also have comp cams

http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...s.asp?dept=330

It almost sounds like you are saying that Comp Cams are not made in the USA.

Formulakid1 · 08-09-2008, 11:55 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by jarrodh

i also ordered/paid for some headman long tube headers prt#69490, and everyone says that they fit good, but mine fit like shit, took me almost 2 hours just to get the main pass side tube/collector in the truck, just to find that i cant get the flange to meet up square with the head.. f****.. now i got a torn apart engine bay, a scratched up set of 425$ headers that dont fit, and a another 3-4 hours to put it all back together.. sometimes i hate v8 s10's.. whats the best way to put in the 2.8 frame motor mounts without havin to drop the lca, snake my extensions through the frame..??

What motor mounts are you using?
I don't think the Headman LT's will fit with the JTR style mounts.

My mounts are custom solid mounts and my Headman LT's fit great.

jarrodh · 08-09-2008, 12:53 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1

What motor mounts are you using?
I don't think the Headman LT's will fit with the JTR style mounts.

My mounts are custom solid mounts and my Headman LT's fit great.

i got the ones that the book sid to use, the transdapft ones that adapt the motor to the stock 2.8 rubber pads..

even with mounts off one side, and the motor jacked up as high as i can get it, the 2 center tubes hit the cross member that goes under the motor..

jarrodh · 08-09-2008, 01:08 PM

well if i need new springs then screw it, i cant afford to drop 8-900 on a cam/lifter, then what ever the springs cost, and gaskets on top of that..

ill just stick with a flat tappet for now then..

im tryin to buy another truck to drop my driveline into aswell..

bgblock427 · 08-09-2008, 01:23 PM

Nothing wrong with comp cams, I just like paying $30 less for the same grind. I owned a machine shop for 15 years and have used every brand. Howards are the best comerical cam for the money, and they dont come in a cardboard box.( Again my opinion) every one has there favorite 2nd choice is crower. The cam that I bent was a comp cams solid roller. Now as for lifters, I will never again buy the comp cams solid rollers. Had 2 rollers fail personally and I always make sure my parts are matched. jesel or crower are way better pieces but cost about $200 more.

Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1

It almost sounds like you are saying that Comp Cams are not made in the USA.

Formulakid1 · 08-09-2008, 01:47 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427

Nothing wrong with comp cams, I just like paying $30 less for the same grind. I owned a machine shop for 15 years and have used every brand. Howards are the best comerical cam for the money, and they dont come in a cardboard box.( Again my opinion) every one has there favorite 2nd choice is crower. The cam that I bent was a comp cams solid roller. Now as for lifters, I will never again buy the comp cams solid rollers. Had 2 rollers fail personally and I always make sure my parts are matched. jesel or crower are way better pieces but cost about $200 more.

Well I guess everyone is entitled to there own opinion....but I can assue you that the grinds may be the same at .050....but the ramp rates will be alot different.
And I would gladly pay $30 for a better design.

jarrodh · 08-09-2008, 02:26 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1

What motor mounts are you using?
I don't think the Headman LT's will fit with the JTR style mounts.

My mounts are custom solid mounts and my Headman LT's fit great.

do you have any pics of the headers/mounts in the truck?? they just dont seem like they will fit on mine without doin some serious work..

ie, move the motor back-then shorten driveshaft, move trany X member, new hoses, change shift linkage a bit etc.. or raise it up about another 2 inches,then i may not be able to close the hood.. if i got the room above the trans.

Formulakid1 · 08-09-2008, 03:03 PM

I don't have any that I know of...but I may be able to get you some pics....

The Stunningman · 08-10-2008, 11:21 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by jarrodh

k, for a roller cam do you have to get special valve springs for a roller??

i really dont want to spend another 100+ on new springs when the ones i have only have about 300km on them..lol, im not shure what springs i have, but i do know that they/heads are good to 575 lift, and i have turned 6700 and wasnt floatin valves yet..

i also ordered/paid for some headman long tube headers prt#69490, and everyone says that they fit good, but mine fit like shit, took me almost 2 hours just to get the main pass side tube/collector in the truck, just to find that i cant get the flange to meet up square with the head.. f****.. now i got a torn apart engine bay, a scratched up set of 425$ headers that dont fit, and a another 3-4 hours to put it all back together.. sometimes i hate v8 s10's.. whats the best way to put in the 2.8 frame motor mounts without havin to drop the lca, snake my extensions through the frame..??

Your problem is.... the correct mounts don't use 2.8 isolators.

I have flipped the 2.8 isolators to the engine ...engine mounts on the frame and made them work with the long tubes.

jarrodh · 08-11-2008, 08:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by The Stunningman

Your problem is.... the correct mounts don't use 2.8 isolators.

I have flipped the 2.8 isolators to the engine ...engine mounts on the frame and made them work with the long tubes.

ya i red the book again and ya i saw that i read a number that wasnt there..lol..

i had then planned on doin the smae, flippin the 2.8 mounts to the motor then bolt the adapter to the frame, but even with the motor jacked up as far as i could the headers hit the cross member right at the bottom..

do you have any pics of your headers installed??

some pics from some people would be great, i just think my motor is to far forward, by about 1-1.5 inches..

08-06-2008, 12:28 AM	#1
jarrodh Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 697 Location: User is: OffLine	attn, engine guys.. hey, a question for you motor gurus.. i got a 355 that i built for my s10, and i may be talkin it out and putin a smaler cam into it, for more of a daily driver.. what i got now is comp cams, prt#12-250-3 http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=and the one i want to put in is prt# 12-242-2 http://www.compperformancegroupstore...&Category_Code=.. according to the free comp cams computer dyno, i should pick up almost 30ftlbs at 4000, and only loose 1 hp at 6000.. so my questionis how accurate do you think that program is assuming i typed everything in write? and would you recommend installin the cam at +4 deg advanced?? as i herd that will bring the powerband down a bit it the rpm range?? is this true?? thanks again, motor specs in my sig..
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-06-2008, 01:43 AM	#2
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. I don't know about the simulation program.....but I think that would be an excellent choice for a good hot street motor like yours. You might even consider the XE274, pn 12-246-3, if you have about a 2500 stall.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-06-2008, 03:09 PM	#3
dre0227 Not Living The Life Age: 23 Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 742 Location: MN User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. I thought most of the cams these days already came degreed so you shouldnt have to degree it?? anybody know the if this is true
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-06-2008, 03:43 PM	#4
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by dre0227 I thought most of the cams these days already came degreed so you shouldnt have to degree it?? anybody know the if this is true These cams come with 4 degrees of advance in them....so in theroy....you should be able to just throw it in dot to dot. But in the real world we have production tolerances. These will be in the crank shaft key way, timing set and cams....and when they all stack up....who knows where you are.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-07-2008, 03:44 AM	#5
jarrodh Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 697 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1 These cams come with 4 degrees of advance in them....so in theroy....you should be able to just throw it in dot to dot. well then, i have my cam thats currently in my motor installed at +8.. if its already got +4 ground in, and i installed it at +4 on the timing set..lol do you guys thing it would be worth it to go with a hydrolic roller?? like this one?? http://www.compperformancegroupstore...&Category_Code= Last edited by jarrodh : 08-07-2008 at 03:53 AM.
	[Reply w/Quote]


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08-07-2008, 02:01 PM	#6
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. If you can afford to go with a roller, then yes....it is the only way to go IMO. Look at 12-423-8 or maybe 12-423-8.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 12:12 PM	#8
jakethegriff All up in your shit Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 19,819 Location: Lakeville, MN User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. do you have to modify the valley in order for a roller to work on pre 85' small blocks?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 12:17 PM	#9
Deeze49686 I'm slap happy, bitches! Age: 35 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,802 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. i wonder, you have 1.6 ratio rockers?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 03:38 PM	#10
bgblock427 1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 197 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. no Quote: Originally Posted by jakethegriff do you have to modify the valley in order for a roller to work on pre 85' small blocks?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 03:45 PM	#11
jakethegriff All up in your shit Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 19,819 Location: Lakeville, MN User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427 no ok, i thought i had read somewhere that the valley or lifter slots had to be modified in order to run a roller set-up, i stand corrected
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 03:45 PM	#12
bgblock427 1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 197 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Roller cams do make more power, but when one goes its expensive to repair. I just had a roller lifter break and it cost $1200 to repair. Had to replace the lifters, cam, oil pump, gaskets, have the block checked, cleaned and honed. And I caught it before it did serious damage. Parts were about 6 months old and had 30 runs on it. I have always ran a roller valve train and have had 2 break in 10 yrs, so they are reliable most of the time, hey I have a bent one if you in the market!
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 07:02 PM	#13
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427 Roller cams do make more power, but when one goes its expensive to repair. I just had a roller lifter break and it cost $1200 to repair. Had to replace the lifters, cam, oil pump, gaskets, have the block checked, cleaned and honed. And I caught it before it did serious damage. Parts were about 6 months old and had 30 runs on it. I have always ran a roller valve train and have had 2 break in 10 yrs, so they are reliable most of the time, hey I have a bent one if you in the market! But if it was a FT that went flat....you would still need to do all of that plus it'll most likely take out the bearings when it pumps all of the metal shavings through the motor in the oil.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 07:21 PM	#14
bgblock427 1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 197 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. When the roller went the lifter actually slid down the lifter bore and stopped the cam by hitting the side of the lobe, If i would have been anywhere but on the return rd it would have cracked the block. I was only doing about 5 mph, dragged the slicks about 3 ft. It pumped shavings all through the engine, the oil pressure sending tube was clogged. Scarry when you realize a couple minutes before it was going 131mph.LOL Truck is back together, going to run a MNRA race with it in 2 weeks, see what the nitrous will do (untested 250 shot). I have to recomend king bearings, the crank and rods were still perfect, just had to give the crank a light polish. Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1 But if it was a FT that went flat....you would still need to do all of that plus it'll most likely take out the bearings when it pumps all of the metal shavings through the motor in the oil.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-08-2008, 09:17 PM	#15
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427 When the roller went the lifter actually slid down the lifter bore and stopped the cam by hitting the side of the lobe, If i would have been anywhere but on the return rd it would have cracked the block. I was only doing about 5 mph, dragged the slicks about 3 ft. It pumped shavings all through the engine, the oil pressure sending tube was clogged. Scarry when you realize a couple minutes before it was going 131mph.LOL Truck is back together, going to run a MNRA race with it in 2 weeks, see what the nitrous will do (untested 250 shot). I have to recomend king bearings, the crank and rods were still perfect, just had to give the crank a light polish. Do you have a stick in the truck? Trying to figure out why the rear wheels locked up when the motor died?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-09-2008, 01:00 AM	#16
bgblock427 1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 197 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. That makes 2 of us, so far i only found the broken lifter. I sent the trans to coan to get inspected, they didnt find anything wrong. Going to check the 3dr member this weekend. My brother was driving so I really dont know why it locked but it did. Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1 Do you have a stick in the truck? Trying to figure out why the rear wheels locked up when the motor died?
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-09-2008, 02:17 AM	#17
jarrodh Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 697 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. k, for a roller cam do you have to get special valve springs for a roller?? i really dont want to spend another 100+ on new springs when the ones i have only have about 300km on them..lol, im not shure what springs i have, but i do know that they/heads are good to 575 lift, and i have turned 6700 and wasnt floatin valves yet.. i also ordered/paid for some headman long tube headers prt#69490, and everyone says that they fit good, but mine fit like shit, took me almost 2 hours just to get the main pass side tube/collector in the truck, just to find that i cant get the flange to meet up square with the head.. f***.. now i got a torn apart engine bay, a scratched up set of 425$ headers that dont fit, and a another 3-4 hours to put it all back together.. sometimes i hate v8 s10's.. whats the best way to put in the 2.8 frame motor mounts without havin to drop the lca, snake my extensions through the frame..?? Last edited by jarrodh : 08-09-2008 at 02:20 AM.*
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-09-2008, 11:21 AM	#18
bgblock427 1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 197 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Are you looking at a hyd roller or a solid roller? I didnt look up the P/N's your looking at. Its not so much the max lift of the springs. with a roller you need to match the recomended seat pressure and installed height you need for the cam. Most solid rollers need around 240 on the seat. I know for a .650-.670 lift can you will need a installed height of around 1.950. That in most cases means valves that are +.100. What springs do you run now? This is all speculation at the moment without looking at what you have right now. Quote: Originally Posted by jarrodh k, for a roller cam do you have to get special valve springs for a roller?? i really dont want to spend another 100+ on new springs when the ones i have only have about 300km on them..lol, im not shure what springs i have, but i do know that they/heads are good to 575 lift, and i have turned 6700 and wasnt floatin valves yet.. i also ordered/paid for some headman long tube headers prt#69490, and everyone says that they fit good, but mine fit like shit, took me almost 2 hours just to get the main pass side tube/collector in the truck, just to find that i cant get the flange to meet up square with the head.. f****.. now i got a torn apart engine bay, a scratched up set of 425$ headers that dont fit, and a another 3-4 hours to put it all back together.. sometimes i hate v8 s10's.. whats the best way to put in the 2.8 frame motor mounts without havin to drop the lca, snake my extensions through the frame..??
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-09-2008, 11:34 AM	#19
bgblock427 1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 197 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. OK I looked up the cams you were looking at. Check out these, better prices, usa made. They also have comp cams http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...s.asp?dept=330
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-09-2008, 11:52 AM	#20
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427 OK I looked up the cams you were looking at. Check out these, better prices, usa made. They also have comp cams http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...s.asp?dept=330 It almost sounds like you are saying that Comp Cams are not made in the USA.
	[Reply w/Quote]

08-09-2008, 11:55 AM	#21
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by jarrodh i also ordered/paid for some headman long tube headers prt#69490, and everyone says that they fit good, but mine fit like shit, took me almost 2 hours just to get the main pass side tube/collector in the truck, just to find that i cant get the flange to meet up square with the head.. f****.. now i got a torn apart engine bay, a scratched up set of 425$ headers that dont fit, and a another 3-4 hours to put it all back together.. sometimes i hate v8 s10's.. whats the best way to put in the 2.8 frame motor mounts without havin to drop the lca, snake my extensions through the frame..?? What motor mounts are you using? I don't think the Headman LT's will fit with the JTR style mounts. My mounts are custom solid mounts and my Headman LT's fit great.
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08-09-2008, 12:53 PM	#22
jarrodh Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 697 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1 What motor mounts are you using? I don't think the Headman LT's will fit with the JTR style mounts. My mounts are custom solid mounts and my Headman LT's fit great. i got the ones that the book sid to use, the transdapft ones that adapt the motor to the stock 2.8 rubber pads.. even with mounts off one side, and the motor jacked up as high as i can get it, the 2 center tubes hit the cross member that goes under the motor..
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08-09-2008, 01:08 PM	#23
jarrodh Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 697 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. well if i need new springs then screw it, i cant afford to drop 8-900 on a cam/lifter, then what ever the springs cost, and gaskets on top of that.. ill just stick with a flat tappet for now then.. im tryin to buy another truck to drop my driveline into aswell..
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08-09-2008, 01:23 PM	#24
bgblock427 1 Fast S10! 9 Second Club Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 197 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Nothing wrong with comp cams, I just like paying $30 less for the same grind. I owned a machine shop for 15 years and have used every brand. Howards are the best comerical cam for the money, and they dont come in a cardboard box.( Again my opinion) every one has there favorite 2nd choice is crower. The cam that I bent was a comp cams solid roller. Now as for lifters, I will never again buy the comp cams solid rollers. Had 2 rollers fail personally and I always make sure my parts are matched. jesel or crower are way better pieces but cost about $200 more. Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1 It almost sounds like you are saying that Comp Cams are not made in the USA.
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08-09-2008, 01:47 PM	#25
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by bgblock427 Nothing wrong with comp cams, I just like paying $30 less for the same grind. I owned a machine shop for 15 years and have used every brand. Howards are the best comerical cam for the money, and they dont come in a cardboard box.( Again my opinion) every one has there favorite 2nd choice is crower. The cam that I bent was a comp cams solid roller. Now as for lifters, I will never again buy the comp cams solid rollers. Had 2 rollers fail personally and I always make sure my parts are matched. jesel or crower are way better pieces but cost about $200 more. Well I guess everyone is entitled to there own opinion....but I can assue you that the grinds may be the same at .050....but the ramp rates will be alot different. And I would gladly pay $30 for a better design.
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08-09-2008, 02:26 PM	#26
jarrodh Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 697 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by Formulakid1 What motor mounts are you using? I don't think the Headman LT's will fit with the JTR style mounts. My mounts are custom solid mounts and my Headman LT's fit great. do you have any pics of the headers/mounts in the truck?? they just dont seem like they will fit on mine without doin some serious work.. ie, move the motor back-then shorten driveshaft, move trany X member, new hoses, change shift linkage a bit etc.. or raise it up about another 2 inches,then i may not be able to close the hood.. if i got the room above the trans.
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08-09-2008, 03:03 PM	#27
Formulakid1 10 second club!!!!! Age: 32 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1,253 Location: Mississippi User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. I don't have any that I know of...but I may be able to get you some pics....
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08-10-2008, 11:21 PM	#28
The Stunningman former V8 AWD member Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 2,284 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by jarrodh k, for a roller cam do you have to get special valve springs for a roller?? i really dont want to spend another 100+ on new springs when the ones i have only have about 300km on them..lol, im not shure what springs i have, but i do know that they/heads are good to 575 lift, and i have turned 6700 and wasnt floatin valves yet.. i also ordered/paid for some headman long tube headers prt#69490, and everyone says that they fit good, but mine fit like shit, took me almost 2 hours just to get the main pass side tube/collector in the truck, just to find that i cant get the flange to meet up square with the head.. f****.. now i got a torn apart engine bay, a scratched up set of 425$ headers that dont fit, and a another 3-4 hours to put it all back together.. sometimes i hate v8 s10's.. whats the best way to put in the 2.8 frame motor mounts without havin to drop the lca, snake my extensions through the frame..?? Your problem is.... the correct mounts don't use 2.8 isolators. I have flipped the 2.8 isolators to the engine ...engine mounts on the frame and made them work with the long tubes.
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08-11-2008, 08:55 PM	#29
jarrodh Registered User Age: 19 Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 697 Location: User is: OffLine	Re: attn, engine guys.. Quote: Originally Posted by The Stunningman Your problem is.... the correct mounts don't use 2.8 isolators. I have flipped the 2.8 isolators to the engine ...engine mounts on the frame and made them work with the long tubes. ya i red the book again and ya i saw that i read a number that wasnt there..lol.. i had then planned on doin the smae, flippin the 2.8 mounts to the motor then bolt the adapter to the frame, but even with the motor jacked up as far as i could the headers hit the cross member right at the bottom.. do you have any pics of your headers installed?? some pics from some people would be great, i just think my motor is to far forward, by about 1-1.5 inches..
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