Hey Brent, thanks for the lead. I may be going to him sooner, rather than later.
Well, the LT1 is in, and I fired it for the first time last night. It's a MEAN sounding son of a gun without an exhaust system!!!!
I've got a couple of issues I was hoping you can help me with. I've been through the books and the Google, and haven't found anything yet. Maybe you guys know something.
First, some basics about the install, so you don't have to go read the whole thread. It's a 96 S10. I replaced the fuel pump about 6 months before the truck came down for the engine swap, and it ran great on the V6. It's a 95 LT1, backed by a T56. Trick Flow top end (heads, cam, 1.6RR, etc), aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. New optispark, waterpump. Current Performance Wiring harness, running both the original V6 PCM and an LT1 PCM. I have the V6 radiator in there, with a pair of pusher-type Flex-a-lite fans mounted in place of the AC condensor. It's got a 180F thermostat now, but the fans are set for a 160 Tstat, and I'll be switching it soon, as well as adding an oil cooler. It is intended to be emissions legal.
1. Fuel pressure: the pump primes just fine. I've got the aeromotive set to give about 58 lbs on prime, works great. Pressure drops to 20lbs after about 10 seconds after the priming stops. The engine starts after about 1 second when I turn the key, but you can watch the fuel pressure go to zero while the engine is running, and then it stops. I pulled the fuel pump relay and shorted the power contacts, started the engine up and it ran like a champ. Strong, non-hesitating, LOTS of noise! I went through all my initial start up checks, and it seems to run great. Of course, as soon as I pull the jumper lead, the engine dies since the fuel pump stops running. SO--the pump primes when you turn the key to on; what tells it to start running AGAIN after the engine starts?
2. Oil pressure: when priming the engine with oil on the starter (coil disconnected), my oil pressure gauge pegged high. Once the engine started, it stayed high. Does this mean my oil pressure sender is bad? Is THIS related to the fueling problem above? I know in some applications, the PCM uses the presence of oil pressure to restart the fuel pump (my diesel suburban is this way, and I think the older TBI 350s were this way).
3. Dipstick calibration: I'm running a Canton Racing 8 quart oil pan with a Canton dipstick. How do I calibrate it? 7 quarts puts me right in band on the dipstick, without cycling oil through the engine. Is that close enough, do you think? Is THIS related to my oil pressure problem above?
4. Lastly, temperature: my temp gauge didn't appear to move after 15 minutes of running the engine. I know there are two temperature senders, one in the head and one in the water pump. One is used (the one in the head) for the temperature gauge on the dash. One is used for the PCM (in the water pump). I guess this one I just need to check the sensor out; I know there's a resistance reading I can do for that one.
I know it's a lot; thanks so much for any suggestions! Especially for the fueling issue; that's the biggest question I have, and the one I'm not sure how to address.