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post #1 of 70 Old 07-14-2003, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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454 S10

aight...im reading all these posts to start off with...454 is possible.....Great! i have one...
anyways....i want to know why everyone is b*tching about the Steering...what do i do to correct that? the exhaust...im not worried with..i live with a exhaust guy...the brakes......can i put a Booster on it....or should i just take the booster off and leave the Bowl......the Radiator.....where can i find a radiator on the internet for a big block......how much out of the Radiator Support will i have to cut and Refabricate....another thing....can i leave the Gas Tank where it is...and just put a Bigger Fuel Pump.....

i want the truck to look stock as hell....without moving the Gas Tank...and having a Cowl hood... <ill buy one latas on...>
help!

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post #2 of 70 Old 07-14-2003, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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oh....will the Factory Starter work on it....until i get enough money to buy a high Torque Starter....
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post #3 of 70 Old 07-14-2003, 09:27 PM
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there is a guy on 67-72chevytrucks.com that had pics of a first gen w BB and stock hood. i'll see if i can find pics.

visiting from 67-72chevytrucks.com,
71 chevy swb step 350/350 for sale, email for pics

99 s10 swb fleet 2.2 5 speed
what drop do i need? i dont want to rub anything. i have 17 inch c5 vette wheels, 17x9.5 front and **FAKE*** 17x10.5 rears (should i post who screwed me on a deal????)
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post #4 of 70 Old 07-15-2003, 10:43 AM
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You can use a smallblock radiator with a big block.

I've posted these pics here before but here they are again
http://www.v8s10.org/albums/finished/bigblocks10_1.jpg
http://www.v8s10.org/albums/finished...10_2.sized.jpg

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'82 S10 383ci
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post #5 of 70 Old 07-15-2003, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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thanks, what about the starter...can i use the STOCK starter until i get enough money to buy high torque mini starter? the steering...is it possible to leave it alone....can i move the brake booster over instead of taking it off.....pm or something plz
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post #6 of 70 Old 07-15-2003, 11:46 AM
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I doubt you can use a stock starter unless its something like the small ones that 94 and up pickups use and theres no way that you could do the swap without moving the steering.

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post #7 of 70 Old 07-15-2003, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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well...how do i do the steering....what do i gotta get! give me a list...and basically a picture on how it has to look...then ill do the rest...thanks
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post #8 of 70 Old 07-15-2003, 04:53 PM
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Thats one of those things you'll have to worry about once the engine is in. Nobody can tell you exactly how to do it.

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post #9 of 70 Old 07-15-2003, 05:02 PM
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My guess on steering - Kind of a hot rod setup, the shaft wont go straight to the gearbox, it will go straight down, then go straight across to the Gearbox, Look at old roadsters with a 454, and thats how you should work it, IMO.

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post #10 of 70 Old 07-15-2003, 10:12 PM
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man, I built a couple of big block ones years ago ... what a pain ! the steering column needs to be released at the firewall ( 4 bolts ) then once its loose you will need to move it outword as far as it will go , then drill a couple of new holes to put the screws back through... then comes the fun part you can ether use a stock lower shaft (depends on your choice of exhaust) or cut and lengthen the lower shaft by cutting it in half and using a short piece of tubing welded over the two ends to extend it as much as you need to clear the engine you can also use a coupule of universal joints to go around whatever is in the way which is usually the front headder tubes... but the main problem I have found is weight transfer the big blocks put too much weight on the front end and with all the torque, traction is not possible without major sergery to the rear of the truck and even then the weight is still wrong ... for everything but BURNOUTS !!! and dont even think about takin a corner over 30 mph ... just a few thoughts from someone whos done it ... oh and im 40+ years old so the trucks were pretty well built, I have had much better luck with small blocks and had one that ran low 10s, still with limited traction.. so good luck . and a mini starter is also a must as you may even have to cut a piece of the lower control arm mount away for clearence even with a mini..

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post #11 of 70 Old 07-16-2003, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
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im leaving the engine FULL stock....except Cam..and CHROME...but anyways.....can i Make my own Headers.......or an Add on for the Stock ones....oh, did you Try LEAD in the back of the Truck......
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post #12 of 70 Old 07-16-2003, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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how much of the floor and Firewall should be Cut when putting the Big Block in.....
i gotta find that out...then can i just weld in a Straight peice of Pipe for the Steering Rod......
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post #13 of 70 Old 07-16-2003, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbcam/s10
man, I built a couple of big block ones years ago ... what a pain ! the steering column needs to be released at the firewall ( 4 bolts ) then once its loose you will need to move it outword as far as it will go , then drill a couple of new holes to put the screws back through... then comes the fun part you can ether use a stock lower shaft (depends on your choice of exhaust) or cut and lengthen the lower shaft by cutting it in half and using a short piece of tubing welded over the two ends to extend it as much as you need to clear the engine you can also use a coupule of universal joints to go around whatever is in the way which is usually the front headder tubes... but the main problem I have found is weight transfer the big blocks put too much weight on the front end and with all the torque, traction is not possible without major sergery to the rear of the truck and even then the weight is still wrong ... for everything but BURNOUTS !!! and dont even think about takin a corner over 30 mph ... just a few thoughts from someone whos done it ... oh and im 40+ years old so the trucks were pretty well built, I have had much better luck with small blocks and had one that ran low 10s, still with limited traction.. so good luck . and a mini starter is also a must as you may even have to cut a piece of the lower control arm mount away for clearence even with a mini..

Well do you think running a glass front end, adding a 22 gallon fuel cell after the axle, and 2 batteries after the axle would help offset the weight of a bigblock? I'm going to use bags on this truck, but I'm not dropping it. I'm going to run a sway up front(I think the 4link rear+panhard bar will keep the ass in place) I'm gonna run some Z06 18s with 285/60/18 Khumo Escta STX tires during the week..and 31x12.50 Boggers on the weekends on the 96 Z28 rims I got(I'm getting some 93-97 spindles/brakes off a Camaro Z28 and getting a custom tube chassis built with custom width a arms to set the tires out a good 4" past the flares

Matt
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1991 2dr 2wd 4.3/700r Blazer Tahoe CRUSHED
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post #14 of 70 Old 07-19-2003, 12:40 PM
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Hi, I'm also currently doing a big block swap, 468.. Yes you will have to tube the truck to ever hook.. (lucky I've already done this for my small block) Best et of 5.88 @ 124mph.. I haven't even been consirned with the steering yet it will fall in line with the other things.. When you say LEAD, weight slows things down, tub the truck right get some good slicks under the thing, get it to bite stall the truck up an hope she goes straight.. heh, Good luck, I'll get some pics soon hopefully..

89, dropped 383 s10
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post #15 of 70 Old 07-21-2003, 11:26 PM
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I dident mean it wont work just its easier with a small block to get the power down , I tubbed and boxed the frame on my last and it launched straight and hard enough to pull the wheels up about 8/10" and yes adding weight to the rear will help but even with the batt and fuel cell and inner wheel houses gone and moved the trucks are still at a disadvantage compared to a similar car, I allways street drive my vehicles so a glass clip would be a pain... aluminum heads are a good way to reduce a big blocks heft .. but pricy so I would start with removing anything you dont need to run the truck and relocating as much weight to the rear as poss , it will work just dont expect much for traction, use as good a traction bar as you can find and I have found blocks are NOT a good idea with any serious power the rear will walk side to side with any application of power and things will break like springs ... and spider gears ETC.. as for the floor cutting you can make cuts anywhere mid line at the firewall and box it back in but this is best left to someone who knows a little about body work as it will make a big mess fast ... I have cut pieces out and extended them with metal pieces to move the wall back but again it was easy for me cuz I have done body work for 25 years .. its alot easier with the cab off also, actually its best to set it on the rear of the cab with the firewall pointing up. but it can be done in the truck .good luck with your projects . if I can help Pm me or post here . bbcam/s10
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post #16 of 70 Old 07-28-2003, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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well...im waiting on the radiator...oil pan..and starter to come in...<gonna pay for it this sat....the 2nd..> then imma go from there...and my papa is a great metal worker....therefore i think i will do aight...ill post pics when it is in and running....im not worried with the weight...im putting 150 lbs of lead on each side of the truck.....
therefore...it should be weighted aight...
thanks again
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post #17 of 70 Old 07-28-2003, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbcam/s10
I dident mean it wont work just its easier with a small block to get the power down , I tubbed and boxed the frame on my last and it launched straight and hard enough to pull the wheels up about 8/10" and yes adding weight to the rear will help but even with the batt and fuel cell and inner wheel houses gone and moved the trucks are still at a disadvantage compared to a similar car, I allways street drive my vehicles so a glass clip would be a pain... aluminum heads are a good way to reduce a big blocks heft .. but pricy so I would start with removing anything you dont need to run the truck and relocating as much weight to the rear as poss , it will work just dont expect much for traction, use as good a traction bar as you can find and I have found blocks are NOT a good idea with any serious power the rear will walk side to side with any application of power and things will break like springs ... and spider gears ETC.. as for the floor cutting you can make cuts anywhere mid line at the firewall and box it back in but this is best left to someone who knows a little about body work as it will make a big mess fast ... I have cut pieces out and extended them with metal pieces to move the wall back but again it was easy for me cuz I have done body work for 25 years .. its alot easier with the cab off also, actually its best to set it on the rear of the cab with the firewall pointing up. but it can be done in the truck .good luck with your projects . if I can help Pm me or post here . bbcam/s10

I want to pretty much shave the firewall. Only thing I'm worried about, is how to keep the windsheild wipers? I'm going to use a aftermarket brake booster, and street rod A/C so there won't be much left there. Going to use the Painless 15? I think circuit mini fuse wiring kit. I want it as clean as possible, and I'd like to gain a lil leg room if at all possible? Any help would be great

Matt
1984 Reg Cab Long Bed S-10 Durango...lifted..engine swapped..
1991 2dr 2wd 4.3/700r Blazer Tahoe CRUSHED
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post #18 of 70 Old 07-28-2003, 09:18 PM
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Oh, the rear end will be a Ford 9" with 3.73s. 5 link setup with coilovers. LoL, yes I woke up from the bad dream about bags+drag racing

Matt
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1991 2dr 2wd 4.3/700r Blazer Tahoe CRUSHED

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post #19 of 70 Old 07-29-2003, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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just the Beginning....
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post #20 of 70 Old 07-29-2003, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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i only plan on putting roller rockers. cam. intake. carb. timing gear. chrome valve covers. alum. Timing cover. Paint it all Black..with some Red Parts. like MSD 8.5 wires.. billit pullies. custom stand alone air cleaner. and a Smooth Fire Wall....where can i get a Shorter Distrib....and Cheap......or will it be ok to just use a Stock Distrib. and cut into the fire wall where it hits..and move it back some... i only need one Windshield wiper blade....but i would like to keep two...just incase....
help me out pls...if yall know anything...take the damn time to help someone out...plz
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post #21 of 70 Old 07-29-2003, 10:30 PM
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Well, a lo-pro distributor is going to run around $150. In all the bigblock S-10 drag trucks, none of them modified the firewall in ANY way and all kept the A/C box. Yes the frame was modded alot and the motor pushed down as low as possible. Trust me, you will want to keep both wipers. Should be fun. I'm looking for a 305/5spd to drop in the 84...then the 85 is gonna start. Also looking for a 84-87 K10 short bed with dual tanks to build up for crawling...

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post #22 of 70 Old 08-01-2003, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Up Close....still gotta put the New Motor Mounts on it...so Dont Trip out s10 ppl
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post #23 of 70 Old 08-02-2003, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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also....im going to CLEAN it up......you'll see after i finish that too...
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post #24 of 70 Old 08-05-2003, 05:38 PM
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good luck man
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post #25 of 70 Old 08-05-2003, 10:43 PM
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ive got a radiator for sale, email me for details, toddles92@hotmail.com

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post #26 of 70 Old 08-05-2003, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by KeNiff
Up Close....still gotta put the New Motor Mounts on it...so Dont Trip out s10 ppl
Can't wait to see it finnished

Matt
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post #27 of 70 Old 08-07-2003, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Hopefully it will be done next week or the week after.....just being put in and drive around.....not the Chrome and the Paint...and the custom Intake..., much less the Whole Engine work.....
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post #28 of 70 Old 08-16-2003, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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aight...to get yall up to date....
my radiator is in....Very Nice...
My starter is in....Nice too...
my Oil Pan is in....Very Pretty!

cleaned the engine...<not paintable yet...but cleaned up good.>
replaced the rear main seal, easy as hell....put the Oil Pan on last night....Very Pretty!

today we are Chopping more out of the Fire Wall....then im put my truck on a Trailor and pull it to where i work..and put it in a Bay. then im going to start to Reweld everything, and Paint it....im going to order "Fat Mat" as soon as it comes out...and im going to line the flooring with it...

i need help from yall though...plz inform me on some 3 speed automatic floor shifters, for cheap...<i got enough money...but i gotta buy a Oil Filter Relocator Kit...the Pan is tooo big><But Pretty!>

thanks for any help, and thanks for just seeing what my insane thoughts are getting me....
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post #29 of 70 Old 08-16-2003, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Oil Pan.
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post #30 of 70 Old 08-16-2003, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Tell me what ya think of these rims...they only come in 20s....
then if i get them im going to have them sent off and powder coated Gun Metal
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post #31 of 70 Old 08-16-2003, 11:43 AM
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I think those rims look sweet. Just personal preference here, but get some of the Kumho Ecsta STX's 295/45/20s. 209 per tire. I think with the wheel wells filled up nicely with 20s and more than rubber band tires it'll look bitchin'

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post #32 of 70 Old 08-16-2003, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks man...ya got aol or yahoo??? im putting the engine in..and putting the tranny on it...then imma go cut into the frame for bolts...then ill go Sheet Metal Shoppin' and form my own Tunnel.....

Then IMMA GO PLAY

maybe this weekend...
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post #33 of 70 Old 08-16-2003, 02:54 PM
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Yeah, I've got aol and yahoo. Chaosrealm1 on both of them

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post #34 of 70 Old 08-19-2003, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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i got the Motor and tranny bolted in...now i have the exhaust manifolds in....and i gotta get a 2x3" peice of square tubing from the metal shop by my house...and i gotta Rerun the Steering...Awsome!

it should be Done this weekend....<well crankable...> if not then it will be crankable next weekend....
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post #35 of 70 Old 08-20-2003, 03:25 PM
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dude it looks awesome i cant wait to see the after pics... IMHO i wouldnt run them rims i mean they look ok but they are just toooo big. go w/ some 17" torq thrust's and you'll be set.

when i get my dime ( in about a year, when the chevelle starts to become driveable) i plan on putting a BB in it as well. i dont care how hard ppl say it is im going ot do it. what kinda tranny you running in it?
i planed on putting a 4spd in mine if its an auto and if its a 5spd truck i plan on rebuilding the trans and putting the 5spd behind it. then comes a tubb'ing and some nice old slicks.


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post #36 of 70 Old 08-20-2003, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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aight...it is like this.....take ya colum out...ya gas pedal out...and all of your Cooling parts.....dont rip ya dash out..into two peices if ya plan on using it again...lol...i did...im Running a Turbo 400...3 speed....it is stock....all you have to do is Cut the Fire wall out.....the stock 454 motor mounts will work...its not shit..i promise...make your own tranny cross member....best is 1/4 inch flat bar...doubled up...with a 2x3 inch square tubing welded together...with a hole drilled into them....
i wanna Run 20s....for Riding around here...and 15 by 15" Race Rims for the Strip......

you will have to move the Steering...unless you buy a lot of Ujoints...dont recommend though.....
it is so easy...just time consuming...

im me if ya got any ?s...
sickntwisted6433 aim....
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post #37 of 70 Old 08-31-2003, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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well, the bosch platinum plugs and wires are in....and on....i got the mini starter done...looks pretty....i got the oil pan on.....Sexy! i have everything ran from the Tranny to the engine.... now i gotta find a Turbo 400 Yoke...that slide in kind....<dunno the tech name for it...lol>

all i know is it cant be bolted to the Tranny...it has to Slide Around....

if not then i will just have to Make a 2 peice Drive Shaft....<Tears, Tears>

the Steering didnt have to be Moved but about a 1/2......<put it where the Clutch Slave Cyl. was....> works great....the exhaust on passanger side is a Different Story.....it comes into the Cab more than i want...so im boxing over it...and F the Rider....lol......they dont need Foot Room anyways....well, im going work on that ole guy....
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post #38 of 70 Old 08-31-2003, 11:52 AM
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i wanna see this thing go

01 Cobra
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post #39 of 70 Old 08-31-2003, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SSclone
dude it looks awesome i cant wait to see the after pics... IMHO i wouldnt run them rims i mean they look ok but they are just toooo big. go w/ some 17" torq thrust's and you'll be set.

when i get my dime ( in about a year, when the chevelle starts to become driveable) i plan on putting a BB in it as well. i dont care how hard ppl say it is im going ot do it. what kinda tranny you running in it?
i planed on putting a 4spd in mine if its an auto and if its a 5spd truck i plan on rebuilding the trans and putting the 5spd behind it. then comes a tubb'ing and some nice old slicks.


aaron
I just found out the stock 5spds will not hold up against a LT-1...So I think you'll be looking for a (if my memory serves me right) NV4500. That "should" be the 3/4-1ton truck tranny. If you really wanna get into it get a NV5600. Thats the 6spd from a Cummins powered ram Yes it'll have a close ratio, but I'd be betting with 2.73 gears and some 31" or so tires it'd be rather fun

Matt
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1991 2dr 2wd 4.3/700r Blazer Tahoe CRUSHED
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post #40 of 70 Old 08-31-2003, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BadAss_S10_2002
I just found out the stock 5spds will not hold up against a LT-1...So I think you'll be looking for a (if my memory serves me right) NV4500. That "should" be the 3/4-1ton truck tranny. If you really wanna get into it get a NV5600. Thats the 6spd from a Cummins powered ram Yes it'll have a close ratio, but I'd be betting with 2.73 gears and some 31" or so tires it'd be rather fun


well i was only saying if it had a 5spd in it that i would rebuild it to withstand the power, or just get a aftermarket one which ever idk yet. and if its an auto then for sure its gunna have a muncie in it.



aaron

71 Velle 355, Voodoo roller, Brodix IK180 heads, holley 300-36 intake, and 750 holley, muncie m20
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post #41 of 70 Old 08-31-2003, 09:37 PM
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Ahhh gotcha. Can't wait to see it completed either way

Matt
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post #42 of 70 Old 09-01-2003, 11:28 PM
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There's a couple of guys running BBC over at www.s10v8.com ....Jay
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post #43 of 70 Old 09-02-2003, 12:14 PM
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Why do you have to pay for S10v8!!!
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post #44 of 70 Old 09-03-2003, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
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Why do you have to pay for S10v8!!!
Cuz its the best site on the net.

Quote:
Originally posted by flyboy367
ok so im still trying to sell my gtp so i can get a truck but whynot get all the dumb questions out now. i want to put a 3" lift on the truck and 31's. but im also a race junkie so if i put in airbags would i be able to keep offroad and street driving height for the 31's, and be able to lower the truck down with the bags at the track to use slicks and smaller front wheels?
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post #45 of 70 Old 09-06-2003, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by KeNiff
now i gotta find a Turbo 400 Yoke...that slide in kind....<dunno the tech name for it...lol>
Its called a slip yoke. And look around in the 4x4 world. People wnat to get rid of the slip yoke for a fixed. I bet you could EASILY trade someone even up. And it is a simple bolt on swap... literally.

Ken H.
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post #46 of 70 Old 09-06-2003, 02:38 PM
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Man, you dont want a low geared truck tranny if you are going to do any drag racing with it. You will never use first gear. Hell you will be launching in third. Plus the NV4500 are very pricey.


NV5600... I dont think so. For the same reasons as the NV4500, but even more so.

Ken H.


Quote:
Originally posted by BadAss_S10_2002
I just found out the stock 5spds will not hold up against a LT-1...So I think you'll be looking for a (if my memory serves me right) NV4500. That "should" be the 3/4-1ton truck tranny. If you really wanna get into it get a NV5600. Thats the 6spd from a Cummins powered ram Yes it'll have a close ratio, but I'd be betting with 2.73 gears and some 31" or so tires it'd be rather fun
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post #47 of 70 Old 09-06-2003, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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the 454 runs...and it shots fire out the right side exhaust manifold.....on top of that...my hood is pissed cuz i crank it and rev it up, then shut it off...and wait about 5 10 min, and do it again....but it shakes the WHOLE truck...i love it!

thanks for reading the posts guys, and gals...if any....

imma try and get a Recording of it soon...
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post #48 of 70 Old 09-06-2003, 09:02 PM
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dude that is friggen awesome man. cant wait to see some more pics of it.


aaron

71 Velle 355, Voodoo roller, Brodix IK180 heads, holley 300-36 intake, and 750 holley, muncie m20
96 Noma 355, holley 300-36, holley 600 carb, gear drive, nv3500, 410 posi, traction bars- SOLD
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post #49 of 70 Old 09-07-2003, 12:41 AM
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Dude thats great....LoL might have to come see it sometime

Matt
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1991 2dr 2wd 4.3/700r Blazer Tahoe CRUSHED
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post #50 of 70 Old 09-07-2003, 03:11 AM
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Pics dude.Pics.I read a article in Hot Rod mag and on the net about finding old caddy engines.They are big displacement with some minor head work maybe a refreshing and some spray they can be very nasty.The kicker it stated was they are light like a small block.A little heavier but not as much as our BBC.I was thinking of getting me one and putting it in a dime and using it to race.What do you guys think.

For Sale: Black 98 Z-28 M6 LS1 9,500.00 or best offer
91S10 hopefully bagged/bodydropped on 20s if I can sell the camaro.
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