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Evap / Charcoal Canister Relocation How To

Submitted by paul on Sun, 2006-04-09 18:26.

Apr 09

This Article will show you one of many ways to relocate the evap / charcoal canister when cnotching or step notching a frame. In this case I have a 98 S10 and I was putting in Jason’s (suicidedoors.com) bolt in cnotch. This method only requires you to extend one line. It will only cost you around $5 and about a half hour (45 minutes if you own a Minnesota truck)

Parts list:
Common shop tools
2 - 5/16” self tapping bolt (pictured below a few pictures)
2 - ¼” fuel line coupler
4 - Small hose clamps
3 feet of ¼” fuel line

Now with the box removed (I suppose you could do it with out taking the box off but why bother 8 bolts and a helper and the box is off…no biggy). I chose the gas tank cross member since I’ve seen it here on other vehicles and haven't heard of any issues. I forgot to take a pic of it after the grinding but once you see the next few pics you will know where to grind.

I drilled two holes that are slightly larger then the bolts in the stock canister bracket, close to the stock mounting nuts.

I’m planning on using a 5/16” self tapping bolt so in this case I used a 21/64” drill bit.

After the holes are drilled in the bracket, I clamp the canister bracket to the spot on the crossmember that I want to mount it too. Make sure that its not so high so that it hits the box but not so low that it hits the exhaust. As the top of the bracket doesn't sit above the top of the box mounts it should be fine.

Using a drill bit slightly smaller then the bolt (1/4” in my case) I use the holes I drilled in the bracket as a guide to where I’m going to put the new holes. Make sure you center the holes.

Once the holes are drilled, I grab a socket wrench and thread the self tapping 5/16” bolt in to the holes, and snug them up good and tight. This is what the bracket should end up looking like all mounted in its new location.

The fuel line that comes from the tank does not need to be extended, just pull it out of its holder on the frame and run it along the cross member over to the newly positioned canister. Also in the picture you need to run the big hose over the cross member. In this picture it’s the stock length and I ended up cutting it a bit short so it sat in the dip in the crossmember better.

Now you only have to extend one line as said before, which is the line that comes from the purge. Start off by cutting the fuel line in half with some scissors

Then insert one end of the ¼” coupler in the stock fuel line, followed by the other end in the end of your new ¼” fuel line and hose clamp it. Here’s a picture of the new fuel line, couplers, and clamps.

Here’s a picture of the one end coupled and clamped

Here’s a picture of the other end coupled and clamped. I routed the line back along the frame between the x member and frame.

Then just follow along the xmember to the new canister.

And there you have it! The canister is relocated out of the way and it cost you around $5 and about a half hour’s worth of time. Hope this helped some of you out. Props go to the ones who have done this before.